Lost the #2 intake lifter inside the engine.
Suction on the push rod pulled it up out of place.
So what do I have to take apart to get it back?
Update... got it out using a magnet... only to lose it again.
What should i do to get it to go back down its bore?

 

HEY, WOW MAN, I've dun that man...same thing, maybe a different cylinder. 1st I tried to control my first instinct to smash something, I was lucky and it didn't roll far. I used one of those magnets on a radio antenna sort o thing, a long screw driver and a push rod...I found it with the magnet and sort of dragged it to the hole, then held it with the screw driver while I pulled the magnet loose and and got a new grip from above, if you can get it to stand up,I walked it to the hole with the magnet and screwdriver. I was lucky and got it to set in the hole,then using the screwdriver to hold it down again while I pulled the magnet up, I used the same push rod that started this whole thing to wiggle the lifter untill it it started back into the bore... a LOT of LUCK (and patience)

 

The push rod did not suck it out of the bore. Just not possible.

 

I'm with Bear on this one.. the lift on the lobe pushes the lifter up not visa versa. Your pushrod wanted to go on a walk about and the lifter didnt want to be alone... it's dark and scary in there LOL Pushrod jumped out and lifter got a little help on it's way via some lead footing Check the springs on the rocker shaft...

 

A pushrod will certainly pull the lifter out of it's bore. Seen it happen too many times. It's especially easy if the lifters have no varnish buildup on their bottom sides.

 

Explain the physics involved in a push rod pulling a lifter out of it's bore? Because the physiscs I know says it ain't gonna happen unless the push rod pulls straight away from the lifter bore, which can't happen. Besides that the push rod weight so much less than the lifter to even start pulling the lifter.

 

HE manually pulled the pushrod up, and the lifter followed......Not while running........aMP

 

Even a moron knows to rotate the push rod as you lift it so the oil will not stick to two together with surface tension.

 

Yep suction. Close fitting parts with cold oil on them.
Worn-in type of "close fit" with a mirror finish even.

I felt it lifting it out way too far and didn't react quick enough.
All of them lifted some, this one lifted -too- far is all.

The engine has ran on Mobil 1 except for a ~3000 mile break-in after the rebuild.

Did you know there's a picture of a really ugly and very stupid guy on the bottom of that lifter? :)

Had to go into town tonight, just got back and I'm figuring it'll be easier to get that lifter lined up at night. So going to change clothes and get after it.

Thanks Twisted, i have the confidence to did it i believe. :)

Alvin in AZ

 

Alvin I hate to ask why where you pulling the push rods out of the engine? It sounds like it wasn't apart too long ago. Sometimes this old man needs a reason people make themselves work. kotzy

 

So I take it you're saying Alvin was a Moron?

 

No he's saying we're morons for not being able to read into Alvins statement and discern that he was the reason the pushrod was on it's way up. Bear's just one of those guys like my Grandfather.. wants to make sure you remember for the next go around

 

So that was what was showing on the bottom of the lifter? :/
A moron? :)

Anyway, yes i knowed that already. :/
...just didn't friggin do it is all. :)

I can remember George Benedum (the rebuilder) even telling me about that.

The reason I'm messing with that is because of the valve adjustment.
Was paranoid some of the valves weren't seating good.

Early on... had a tapping lifter and went and put in .060" over pushrods without checking the adjustment. Been paranoid about that ever since. Comp lifters.

I ended up using Steve Christ's "channel locks" idea but had to dremel (new verb) a slot in the end of the upper jaw. The wide-flat-space was too big and my new slot is formed in such a way, as to grab the lip better too.

I know it's just math and geometry and this -can't- happen... but it is anyway! :/
Standard length push rods are too short.
.060 over are too long.

Thinking about shimming the stands .010" so the .060 over's will work.
Anybody ever do that on an FE?

Or is .085" valve lash ok?
Std's make it go to .210"+. :/
No kidding.

Also "standard's" are perfect on the 1234 bank, it's the left side that's acting so funny. ~.150"

Did you know you have to poke a hole in the "factory a/c" box to get #4's exhaust pushrod in and out of the engine? :)

Really tho, what do you think of my shimming idea? :/

Alvin in AZ
ps- Twisted the sucker went in no sweat with your screwdriver idea...
pps- magnet, super long screwdriver, at night with a couple good flashlights.

 

My truck had shims on the stands as did the one I got a fresh set rocker assembly off of at pick your part. It was a performance engine built by a shop who put their tag on it. So I'd say yes it's safe to shim them (evenly) as all the shims were the same size and one under each stand. No curvin your shaft there willard

 

Cool thanks for the reassurance. :)
Done done. :)
And it's perfect with .060" over pushrods and .020" hard aluminum shims.
(flat-ground to size even, something I got off some medical equipment, did i tell you I was a packrat?;)

Now for the other side... I was wrong, the other side ain't right after all, it's going to need the same shim-business the left side did.

Fingered out what was wrong... the 16 new pushrods are undersize not standard.
AutoZone only carries the one size and that number is on these but the suckers measure .060" under anyhow. Somebody's wires got crossed somewhere!

No wonder it was making a .200"+ difference in my lash huh? :)

So no time etc to go get the right ones gonna make 4 more shims...

Got a party they are throwing for me (and a few others) tomorrow in Bowie AZ, trying like hell to get there. ;)

Alvin in AZ