I feel like an idiot.... My driver side door latch isnt working properly and I cannot get the door to close without MANY, MANY slams and wriggles on the door handle.. I adjusted the latch mechanism in the door itself to ensure it was aligned properly. The stike plate/bar on frame seems to hit properly... When I manually flip the latch on the door with a screwdriver, it seems to lock in... But no matter what I try the door still "bounces" off the door frame 10 times before it finally latches. I am concerend I am doing damage with repeated heavy slams...
Its embarrassing to have to climb into the truck on the pass side! any helpful hints before I give up and go the the dealer?

thanks all!!

 

Have you taken the latch out recently? It's possible something got bound up during reinstallation.

Sence you have played with the latch, I'd try painting the striker with white lithum grease and seeing how it alignes. If the stricker is hitting dead center, it may need to go down a hair to clear the cam or possibly the hinge is shot and dropping the door at the last second.

The other possiblity is the striker is too far in or out. Out should be easy, just close the door lightly and listen for the clicks. Inward, you just have to try sliding the striker away from the cab. If all else fails, leave the striker loose and close the door, see if the latch will grab it all. If not, you may need to replace that latch.

 

Thanks ReAX... I havent touched the door panel for a long time... I guess I'll mess with it more tonight after work...I didnt move the striker plate initially since it seemed to be in it's original position.... I figured it was the latch in the door that was the culprit...

as a footnote, I went out for lunch today and as I was driving at 70mph on the expressway.. the door popped open on it's own !! You should have seen me as I took a right hand exit ramp (causing the driver door to want to swing out) as I went around the sharp curve.. not a pretty sight lol

 

One of my mustangs was having a similar problem, and all I did was clean out the latch part on the door. it was sticking, and not clamping onto the bar. I sprayed the hell out of it with WD40, and cleaned all of the old grease and dirt out of it, and re-lubed it, and it opens and closes like new. It was bothering me for months before I tried that.

 

Been there and had the same issue on my tractor trailer. It has always turned out to be a worn door hinge which throws everything out of alignment. Always on the driver's door too because it is used more than the others. Open your door and try lifting it up from the bottom corner below the latch assembly. Any vertical movement of the door itself is not a good thing. If it is a hinge replace them both or you will wish you had in the near future.

 

I had the same problem with a rear door. I bought the new latch from Ford ~$50 and everything is fine now. I would buy a new latch if I were you.

 

Yeah, that is why I would try to clean the latch mechanism first, because not only do you save $50, but you save the time it takes you to dissasemble the mechanism, and repace it. cleaning it certainly would not hurt.

 

I guess I have a different view,, perhaps the grey hair does it.
But if I go through the trouble to remove a latch or handle that might be giving a problem I will replace it with a new part. Ok it does cost more but that gives me more time to fish or cruise with the wife. Better to go for burgers and beer than put a part back on just so I can say,, "well that didn't work" and have to buy the new part anyway.

I realize this is a different view, and in years past I might just clean and replace, but time, age and effort has given me a different priority. Jim

 

No problem, man. But I mean don't take it apart, just open the door and spray it down and clean it. I totally agree with your view that if you are going to take it apart, replace it with a new part (esp if it is less than $100), but I don't want him to take it apart. Having owned Fords (Mustangs) for over 15 years, I have determined, for example, that if you have the transmission out, replace the rear main seal while you are there, even if it is not leaking. I totally agree. If you have the motor out, replace the damn oil pump, it is a $25 part, definitly.

 

I get rattling on some bumps from the doors. I checked the latch and the striker but there doesn't seem to be any adjustment on it. IOW, it bolts in and that is that. You can't make it move either way. Any ideas?