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I honestly don't know how you guys with 14 and over MPG do it.... This is my 6th tank full testing my truck and i have not been able to see anything above 12.5 mpg. 2000 7.3 CC, SB, 4x4 on 305-70-r16 tires. Inflated to 60psi.
I had a few issues a while back with the dreaded 1316, but found the problem a while back and still i get no more than 12.5. The worst i got was 10.5 and the best so far 12.5.
I ran AE on my truck just two days ago to make sure everything was in good shape and it came back with NO codes at all. buzz test comes back clean, contribution test passes clean, Koeo clean, Koer clean...... Im stumped......
only mods so far are ccv, 6637, zoodad. I am running the stock exhaust and muffler also.
I don't fill at the same station, but i do fill it to the brim...... everytime.
any ideas???? i read a thread once about the map sensor going bad and giving poor mileage, but how do i test it...... ??? AE does not detect it being bad so far..
David- I got it from Aeromotive tanks or something near Pomona California. I did a yahoo search, but couldn't come up with it. It mounts under the bed in place of your existing tank. I'd set aside a good day to do it, as you have to drop the old tank, then raise the new on in it's place, drill holes through the tank brackets and truck frame. Then you gotta drop the tank, and insert bolts. YOu then raise the tank, and then curse as you push half the bolts back through the frame. Then you either tack weld the bolts in place like I did or you can epoxy them in. You then raise the tank again, and again curse and kick your muffler or something else in reach as you find that the bolts in the rear section that follow the upward angle of the the frame need to have the bracket elongated, due to more than one angle of "fastener intrusion". Kinda like trying to mount a piece of flat stock on a wagon wheel's spokes- frustrating to say the least. However the end result is nice- I now only fuel up every 730 miles or so if I push it. It's also nice if you find a smokin deal on deisel, in that you can buy more at a cheaper price.
David- I got it from Aeromotive tanks or something near Pomona California. I did a yahoo search, but couldn't come up with it. It mounts under the bed in place of your existing tank. I'd set aside a good day to do it, as you have to drop the old tank, then raise the new on in it's place, drill holes through the tank brackets and truck frame. Then you gotta drop the tank, and insert bolts. YOu then raise the tank, and then curse as you push half the bolts back through the frame. Then you either tack weld the bolts in place like I did or you can epoxy them in. You then raise the tank again, and again curse and kick your muffler or something else in reach as you find that the bolts in the rear section that follow the upward angle of the the frame need to have the bracket elongated, due to more than one angle of "fastener intrusion". Kinda like trying to mount a piece of flat stock on a wagon wheel's spokes- frustrating to say the least. However the end result is nice- I now only fuel up every 730 miles or so if I push it. It's also nice if you find a smokin deal on deisel, in that you can buy more at a cheaper price.
Thanks!!
I'd do it!! But what was the cost? I have been looking at transferflow, but 1k is too much for their replacement tanks. Having a shortbed limits the inbed tank idea. Hell, i can barely put a 6ft ladder in there, and if I put an inbed tank, there would be no way. So a good replacement tank is my only option.
do you guys think that these aftermarket tuners manipulate your onboard mileage readings to show an improvement without actually giving one ??
my friend installed a hypertech(?) and and his average is up 5mi per/gal in no time at all. '03 F250 CC 4X4 7.3 auto.
I don't know if the Programmer/Chip Manufacturers can manipulate it. It does looks that way. I did talk with one of the "Programmers" at Hypertech and he said the changing of the display is a side-affect.
my DP tuner helps with MPG being up in the mountains.. I use less throttle to make most the hills with out down shifting..I'm getting 17 around town and have got 23 on the big road..you will also notice most of us with good MPG have the early 99..we have smaller HPOP, inj, and a smaller turbo..
My truck doesn't have a Lie-O-Meter. Mine numbers are always calculated filling the tank up to the neck and dividing the amount I filled up with by the miles on the odometer. I just went 400 miles on 26 gallons (15.4 mpg), nearly all of that was interstate, and I was a very bad boy with the throttle!! I normally get around 17, unloaded, 65-70 PSI in my stock-sized tires...
Ron I wish my early PSD got your numbers. I just put in a bottle of that oil "secret" additive, I can't remember what exactly it's called, but I saw it on a different forum a while back, with good backing from some senior members. It replaces 2 qts- unfortunately, I've had to replace about 3 qts in the past 1000 miles, as I have a small leak from a recently repaired crank dampner but I'll see where my numbers are after the next fill up- been driving kinda heavy footed lately so I can't get an accurate number.
As far as the Aeromotive tank, I paid $620 cash out the door. You give em cash, and they knock off the sales tax- works for me! I found it to be one of the best deals around, especially when FOrd wants $860 (military discount) for a new stock tank!!
Ive change th EBPV tube and sensor, tightened turbo boots, fuel filter, tire pressure 60psi (although 315/75) and still 12 mpg in stop and go and tight mountain roads.
Someone on this site did fuel mods that increased the fuel pressure for better atomozation? Im considering trying stock tires.
Any suggestions for maintanance Im leaving out? Mods that really work and worth the increase in MPG. I drive what I consider average and try to keep it under 2000 RPM, Sometimes 24-2500. I have a Snug Top and usually about 750 payload.
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