I'm contimplating the ever popular 5.0 swap into my 94 4.0 4x4 5 speed Ranger and I'm trying to get all my ducks in a row before I spend any money on things I don't need or won't work. As far as the engine, and wiring, I have it covered ( I hope) My goal is to keep it 4x4 and manual trans, I want to avoid custom driveshafts or changing the T-case, Or maybe use doner driveshafts and t-case from something else to avoid that extra cost of custom shafts, do to me having broke one during a moment of stupidity that I'm sure will happen again. And custom shafts will cost me more than $20 or so from junk yard.
Thanks,
Roy

 

Are you going to keep the 302 stock or build it out? If you're staying stock, use an adaptor plate with the M5OD...it won't problems with that engine. Better yet, go to an M5OD-R2 from the F-150 and it'll not only be a bolt up, but designed with the small block 302 in mind.

The other option would be a T-5...but they never came with any 4WD vehicle I do not believe, so you'd have to find something to mate it to a transfer case. I would HIGHLY suggest therefore staying with either version of the M5OD, just to keep things simple.

Or perhaps you could go to a ZF-5 from an F-250, as the 351 and 302 share the same bellhousing pattern. The ZF-5 is basically bulletproof and has a very low first gear. They're not real easy to find however, and they are quite large, but if you could nail the trans and transfer case from one, driveshafts would be sort of afterthought and the price wouldn't be so bad to have one shortened.

 

I found it to be about $80 each to shorten rear/ lengthen front driveshafts I know the ZF is a huge unit and I'm not into the body lift thing to get it in there. I plan to use 302 out of a 93-95 stang GT all stock except headers, is M5OD-R2 the same length as the R-1? I'm a little scared of using my R-1 with adaptor on a 302 because I already had to replace it ( I bought the truck cheap because it had a bad trans) and was told a 302 would destroy it If I was even a little hard on it at times.
thanks,
Roy

 

There's guy's running the M5OD with the explorer express super charger at 275 hp with no problem. The biggest thing with the M5OD is the shiftrail plugs, they go bad and drain the fluid, thats the most common reason for M5OD failure. I'm pretty sure advanced adapters has a conversion for using the T-5 also. I'm running more hp than a stock 5.0 with my 4.0 and I wheel my truck hard at times, and I have no M5OD issues to date, you keep them full of fluid and they'll hold up.

 

As far as I know, the M5OD-R2 on the F150 is only used behind the 6 cyl engine, not the V8. The -R2 does have a higher torque rating than the -R1HD that is used behind the 4.0

 

I'm a little late on this one. I'm in the middle of rounding up parts for a 302 swap for my 92.
So far this is what I've got info/parts.
I found it easier/cheaper to buy a whole parts truck than to find individual parts. I bought a 1988 F150 5.0 4x4 manual. It has the M50D-R2 tranny which I'll be using. This tranny however does not have aftermarket adapters available for the BW1350 transfer case. I therefore have to use the BW1356 T-case out of the f150 or change trannies. I've decided to use the BW1356, to save some $$$. I will have to get my Driveshafts shortened/lengthen, but is a lot cheaper than another tranny and adapter for it that retails around $500. The M50D-R2 Shifter position is also different than the M50D-R1, the covers cannot be swapped between the R1 and R2. If you find an R2 cover from 97 up it will fit the older R2s and relocate the shifter to nearly stock location. I've chosen to modify my tunnel for the new shifter location, I'll probably also have to notch the frame for the BW1356. The R1 and R2 are simillar but not the same. The R2 uses beffier internals and should hold anywhere and up to 300 HP/TQ with out any issues. I cought this note in other threads.
I've chosen to go to carb instead of spending countless hours in the harness and to reduce downtime, although I'll never pass an emissions test if they ever choose to make them an annual thing around here. That's the upside of buying a whole truck also, I'll retain all the EFI stuff just incase.

Hope this helps, I'm not doing the swap until summer, but between now and then I will read up some more on the subject and will post back on my findings. I'll also add photos best I can in my gallery about it when the time comes.

Madmike33

 

After long hours spent searching, I've came to the fact of buying a doner, but I bought a rear ended 93 stang gt. so I'll be going with the T-5 and adaptor to use my BW1350 t case and I'm sure custom drive shafts. and I do have anual emmisions so EFI is going in. My project prolly wont start till next year due to very low funds at this point. Lift kit, wheels and tires set me back a bit, not to mention the $300 front end alignment.

 

No point in breaking the bank. Go to it as your wallet allows you to. The T5 is a good tranny, the only problem you'll run into is it doesn't have a hydraulic cluth. You'll have to adapt a slave cylinder to the bellhousing... no biggie. I'll be posting up my progress with pictures as the project moves along.

Madmike33

 

Eesh, and shop around for alignments! I've gotten the Ranger, Silverado, Sierra, and an F-250 aligned for $89 each!

 

I'm pretty lucky in the alignment dep. The garage I worked at has an arangement with an alignment shop up the street. All of our jobs that require an alignment we refer to this shop. The owner aligns our vehicles for $40. in thanx of sending him work. I don't work at this garage anymore but I'm in good terms with the owner now. He still gives me the deal.

Madmike33

 

I was wacked 2 hours labor for camber bushings @ $83 an hour and $55 for the bushings on top of the $60 alignment. See if I go there again! I could only dream of $83 an hour.