#14 error code need help understanding
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From: Berlin, CT USA
#14 error code need help understanding
1987 f160 inline 6, truck keeps stalling, wait 20 mins then runs. I had a tested hooked in so when it did die i could start the test asap and got code #14-Two or more successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup pulses occurred, resulting in a possiable engine miss or stall, i have no clue on what the hell that means i need direction am i looking at spark plugs timming plz help.
thnx in advanced
p.s. How do u read error codes with a 0 in it, Exmp 10,20,30
thnx in advanced
p.s. How do u read error codes with a 0 in it, Exmp 10,20,30
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by spike552
1987 f160 inline 6, truck keeps stalling, wait 20 mins then runs. I had a tested hooked in so when it did die i could start the test asap and got code #14-Two or more successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup pulses occurred, resulting in a possiable engine miss or stall, i have no clue on what the hell that means i need direction am i looking at spark plugs timming plz help.
thnx in advancedp.s. How do u read error codes with a 0 in it, Exmp 10,20,30
thnx in advancedp.s. How do u read error codes with a 0 in it, Exmp 10,20,30
Ford had a recall on these two parts several yrs ago (5 million were recalled!). They had problems with these two parts since 1984, the first yr for this module/coil. I'd check with the dealer to see if your vehicle may be covered.
E5PZ-12A112-A .. Pickup Coil (stator) (Motorcraft D-U-30-A)
E43Z-12A297-A .. Ignition Module (Motorcraft DY-425)
You will need a slim shanked Torx wrench to remove the ignition module, which bolts to the dizzy body. The coil is under the dizzy cap, in plain view. Make sure you use the dilectic grease that comes with these two parts.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Mar 30, 2007 at 04:09 AM.
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From: Berlin, CT USA
I thank you for your help, you have been most helpful one more question, would this problem become worse in 90 deg outside air and imagine engine compartment air. I gotta say it does seem like its getting worse, used to be one heavy heat, but it was 30 deg out last night and i was stuck out by the landfill go figure. Thnx again man
Posting Guru
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From: Baltimore
Originally Posted by spike552
p.s. How do u read error codes with a 0 in it, Exmp 10,20,30
Yes the distributor shaft has to be removed to replace the pickup.
A rebuilt distributor which includes a new pickup costs around $60.00 with your old one as a core.
A rebuilt distributor including a new TFI module is around $110.00.
Here's a picture of the pickup coil.
Ford Parts Specialist
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Heat is the enemy of these dizzy mounted ignition modules. As I said in previous post above, the E43Z-12A297-A modules were crappola from the get go. I prolly sold over a thousand from 1984/97. Over 5 million were replaced in recent recall by Ford. Never, ever buy a rebuilt module. Most are fresh from a wrecking yard, and are cleaned off and tested, and a tag that states"rebuilt" applied. Usually found in fly by night parts houses....the same outfits that sell "rebuilt" starters and alternators for $15.95 and up. Same process for "rebuilding" these is used. Wiped clean, sometimes repainted and maybe bench tested...parts replaced only if absolutely necessary.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Mar 30, 2007 at 10:46 PM.
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From: Berlin, CT USA
Taking this in like a spung thnx guys, ran into a problem, i have the tfi and the pick up didnt cost me alot at all at advanced 
but i was un able to remove the distributor from the engine, it just wouldnt move in any direction is there something iam doing wrong here, put everything back together just fine, wokrs for me just something new to learn about ehh.
but i was un able to remove the distributor from the engine, it just wouldnt move in any direction is there something iam doing wrong here, put everything back together just fine, wokrs for me just something new to learn about ehh.
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From: Baltimore
At the base of the distributor there is a 1/2 bolt and clamp
that holds the distributor in place. Remove the bolt and clamp.
Then pull up on the distributor.
You need to note the position of the distributor
base in relation to a fixed object and the position of the rotor for
proper reinstallation. You will also need a timing light to verify
proper timing.
that holds the distributor in place. Remove the bolt and clamp.
Then pull up on the distributor.
You need to note the position of the distributor
base in relation to a fixed object and the position of the rotor for
proper reinstallation. You will also need a timing light to verify
proper timing.
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From: Berlin, CT USA
My problem is that when i losen everything and the hold down bolt, mark the base to the engine and get rdy to pull it out, it doesnt want to come out, i have tried a little force but i dont want to try to much if something is gonna break.
Tuned
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Denver, Co
Originally Posted by spike552
Just want to be clear here, telling me i wiggle the rotor and the distibutor will come out, sry i just want to be absolutly sure bout everything.
The dizzy will rotate but stays firm when you tug upwards right?
If so then,,, Wiggle the rotor while lifting gently.
It SHOULD help lift the dizzy housing by using the helical gears that connect the rotor with the camshaft
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