serviceing auto locking frt hubs?
Thanks!
OR just tell her they weren't repairable, and don't make them anymore. Then just buy a set of Mile Marker(or your choice) locking hubs, and slap those on.
There seems to be nothing wrong with any of the gears or the lock out itself. Seems to have a lot of black grease on it, maybe to much! This is the way it came from the factory though as it has never been apart since we bought it. Every thing slides real smooth and has no side play in it. I just can't see why they are hanging and not coming completely out of four wheel drive!
If I can find a picture of it then I can see if the ears on it have too much wear on them but, that doesn't seem to be the case. Any info would be much appreciated!
If it is anything like my former 1997 Ranger, you have to back up 20 feet or so, then pull forward 20 feet. Sometimes multiple times. It tells you in the manual 10 or 12 feet, I wish. Though they are truthful about autohubs not being for "farm use", because no farmer in his right mind would want them.
If they are exactly like my 1997 Ranger they will fail without warning and unlock going up steep slippery hills and let you slide all the way back down in 2x4.
Vacuum hubs that fill with water and autohubs prone to failure (at least yours lock), made with plastic, are not what I would want on my Ford truck. I would go manuals.
Barring that ... I know little about the Dana 50/1997. If do know if you have the two o-ring type you HAVE to replace both o-rings everytime you remove the hub. Otherwise you get vacuum leaks and water gets sucked into the hub.
I would test the vacuum going to the hub. You should have a disconnect where it attaches to the knuckle. Or you could run a line to a cheap hand vacuum pump and test their operation that way. If they leak down, you have a problem.
> I have 2 different manuals and it is not in neither of them!
In 1998/99/2000 (not sure of the year) Ford went with a new design from a double to single o-ring on the Rangers, probably followed suit in the F-series too, to solve their design problems.
FWIW.
If it is anything like my former 1997 Ranger, you have to back up 20 feet or so, then pull forward 20 feet. Sometimes multiple times. It tells you in the manual 10 or 12 feet, I wish. Though they are truthful about autohubs not being for "farm use", because no farmer in his right mind would want them.
If they are exactly like my 1997 Ranger they will fail without warning and unlock going up steep slippery hills and let you slide all the way back down in 2x4.
Vacuum hubs that fill with water and autohubs prone to failure (at least yours lock), made with plastic, are not what I would want on my Ford truck. I would go manuals.
Barring that ... I know little about the Dana 50/1997. If do know if you have the two o-ring type you HAVE to replace both o-rings everytime you remove the hub. Otherwise you get vacuum leaks and water gets sucked into the hub.
I would test the vacuum going to the hub. You should have a disconnect where it attaches to the knuckle. Or you could run a line to a cheap hand vacuum pump and test their operation that way. If they leak down, you have a problem.
> I have 2 different manuals and it is not in neither of them!
In 1998/99/2000 (not sure of the year) Ford went with a new design from a double to single o-ring on the Rangers, probably followed suit in the F-series too, to solve their design problems.
FWIW.
I had them inspected yesterday by some well qualified people and they also say that they can see nothing wrong with them. They were also surprised to see no vacuum diaphragms and no lines running to them (on neither side)!
I think I will assemble them in the truck and see if that will work. If not she will just have to go to the manual lock outs.
One more thing I have heard that just picking up a set of manual lock outs isn't all I have to buy. I will need some kind of an adapters? One other thing and that is: Do they take a special kind of grease? It looks to me as they have been over lubed from the factory!
I can get a set of Mile Markers for $159.00 but, I have not gone on Ebay as of yet.
Thanks again and may God bless you!
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> I will need some kind of an adapters?
As far as I know, the lube is suppose to be Dextron II.
I know little about the Dana 50, BUT, after reading these topics I know more. I will post the links for you:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ersion+dana+50
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ersion+dana+50
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...ersion+dana+50
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I am going to go with the manual hubs and just not say anything to my better half till she needs 4 wheel drive! Then I will tell her to look under the front seat on the drivers side. There will be a pair of gloves there and that she will have to put them on. There get out of the truck and go to the drivers side front wheel and look in the center of the wheel. The little thingy in the center will have to be turn in a counter clock wise till it locks(or what ever way it needs to be turned). Then go to the other side front wheel and do the same with it. Then get back in in the truck and take off the gloves,,,etc.!!!LOL!!
Just kidding guys she ain't quite that bad,,,yet!
God bless,
Gary
> Thanks for taking the time for getting this info for me
You are welcome :-) one of the best benefits of Club FTE for me is getting the searches.




