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serviceing auto locking frt hubs?

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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 08:45 AM
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serviceing auto locking frt hubs?

Wifes truck has the auto locking hubs that are not coming out of 4 wheel drive completely! She doesn't want the manual locking hubs but can not remember to drive the dern thing once a month to keep them from sticking! I don't know which diff. is in it but it is a "97" F-250 HD with the 7.3 Power Stroke and auto transmission! I have never done the auto hubs before! I always changed them over to the Warn manual hubs and thru the auto one away! Can any one give me the detail on what to look for or where can I get a picture of them.
Thanks!
 
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 10:35 AM
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I tore down a 93 F-250 auto hub and the hubs are very simular to the manual locking hubs. Cant help you on a pic but I had never been in an auto set up either and I could figure it out. So it cant be that hard to open them up and get them back together.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 12:28 PM
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I've tore into a auto hub before, and it looks like there are just a couple gears, springs, and things inside that should be cleaned up and regreased, and it should work fine after that. Some people over grease them and they don't lock in, so be careful of that.

OR just tell her they weren't repairable, and don't make them anymore. Then just buy a set of Mile Marker(or your choice) locking hubs, and slap those on.
 
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Old Mar 20, 2007 | 01:07 PM
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Here is the "how to" plus a whole lot more.

http://guzzle.rbmicro.com/index.html

Carl
 
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Old Mar 21, 2007 | 08:45 AM
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Thanks!

I heard that MBBFord! Thanks for the link carlb but the link to the hub servicing is not the hubs that are on this Ford! I have 2 different manuals and it is not in neither of them! This is a '97' F-250 Power Stroke W/ automatic trans and the Dana 50 front axle(4:10). I have pulled one side and can not see any diaphragm! The one shown no doubt does the same thing of course as the one in this truck however it is completely different. I removed the 3 torx screws from the center hub (under the hub cap) and then the outer snap ring. The snap ring has no where to get a needle nose pliers or a snap ring tool on and I had to use a small flat screw driver and work it under the end of the snap ring (It has a beveled end to do this)to get it started. Then work it out of the groove to remove it. Then the whole hub slid out. It has a plastic ring that snaps into a circle spring (about 1/8 inch in dia. and forms a circle around the hub)and the inner hub lock. The plastic ring has a separation in it to get it snapped in. I have not found the diaphragm they talk about in the article! Could it be deeper inside the hub on this model?
There seems to be nothing wrong with any of the gears or the lock out itself. Seems to have a lot of black grease on it, maybe to much! This is the way it came from the factory though as it has never been apart since we bought it. Every thing slides real smooth and has no side play in it. I just can't see why they are hanging and not coming completely out of four wheel drive!
If I can find a picture of it then I can see if the ears on it have too much wear on them but, that doesn't seem to be the case. Any info would be much appreciated!
 
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 01:29 AM
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> I just can't see why they are hanging and not coming completely out of four wheel drive!

If it is anything like my former 1997 Ranger, you have to back up 20 feet or so, then pull forward 20 feet. Sometimes multiple times. It tells you in the manual 10 or 12 feet, I wish. Though they are truthful about autohubs not being for "farm use", because no farmer in his right mind would want them.

If they are exactly like my 1997 Ranger they will fail without warning and unlock going up steep slippery hills and let you slide all the way back down in 2x4.

Vacuum hubs that fill with water and autohubs prone to failure (at least yours lock), made with plastic, are not what I would want on my Ford truck. I would go manuals.

Barring that ... I know little about the Dana 50/1997. If do know if you have the two o-ring type you HAVE to replace both o-rings everytime you remove the hub. Otherwise you get vacuum leaks and water gets sucked into the hub.

I would test the vacuum going to the hub. You should have a disconnect where it attaches to the knuckle. Or you could run a line to a cheap hand vacuum pump and test their operation that way. If they leak down, you have a problem.

> I have 2 different manuals and it is not in neither of them!

In 1998/99/2000 (not sure of the year) Ford went with a new design from a double to single o-ring on the Rangers, probably followed suit in the F-series too, to solve their design problems.

FWIW.
 
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Old Mar 22, 2007 | 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by rebocardo
> I just can't see why they are hanging and not coming completely out of four wheel drive!

If it is anything like my former 1997 Ranger, you have to back up 20 feet or so, then pull forward 20 feet. Sometimes multiple times. It tells you in the manual 10 or 12 feet, I wish. Though they are truthful about autohubs not being for "farm use", because no farmer in his right mind would want them.

If they are exactly like my 1997 Ranger they will fail without warning and unlock going up steep slippery hills and let you slide all the way back down in 2x4.

Vacuum hubs that fill with water and autohubs prone to failure (at least yours lock), made with plastic, are not what I would want on my Ford truck. I would go manuals.


Barring that ... I know little about the Dana 50/1997. If do know if you have the two o-ring type you HAVE to replace both o-rings everytime you remove the hub. Otherwise you get vacuum leaks and water gets sucked into the hub.

I would test the vacuum going to the hub. You should have a disconnect where it attaches to the knuckle. Or you could run a line to a cheap hand vacuum pump and test their operation that way. If they leak down, you have a problem.

> I have 2 different manuals and it is not in neither of them!

In 1998/99/2000 (not sure of the year) Ford went with a new design from a double to single o-ring on the Rangers, probably followed suit in the F-series too, to solve their design problems.

FWIW.
Thanks for all the info and taking the time to help me get it fixed! You did hit on some thing I know that she nor I have tried. That is backing up at least 20 feet and pulling forward and if they don't disengage, try it again! I have told her that she needed to back up 10 to 15' and have the gear pull her back (meaning that just letting it roll backward by the use of gravity doesn't cut it) preferably back up an incline!
I had them inspected yesterday by some well qualified people and they also say that they can see nothing wrong with them. They were also surprised to see no vacuum diaphragms and no lines running to them (on neither side)!
I think I will assemble them in the truck and see if that will work. If not she will just have to go to the manual lock outs.
One more thing I have heard that just picking up a set of manual lock outs isn't all I have to buy. I will need some kind of an adapters? One other thing and that is: Do they take a special kind of grease? It looks to me as they have been over lubed from the factory!
I can get a set of Mile Markers for $159.00 but, I have not gone on Ebay as of yet.
Thanks again and may God bless you!
 
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Old Mar 24, 2007 | 09:47 AM
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> I have heard that just picking up a set of manual lock outs isn't all I have to buy.
> I will need some kind of an adapters?

As far as I know, the lube is suppose to be Dextron II.

I know little about the Dana 50, BUT, after reading these topics I know more. I will post the links for you:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ersion+dana+50

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...ersion+dana+50

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...ersion+dana+50
 
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Old Mar 26, 2007 | 08:07 AM
  #9  
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Thanks a bunch!

Thanks for taking the time for getting this info for me! It is nice to ask and receive info from people that have been there and done that than trying to explain what is going on to some guy (dealership) that only knows what the book says and sometimes not even that!
I am going to go with the manual hubs and just not say anything to my better half till she needs 4 wheel drive! Then I will tell her to look under the front seat on the drivers side. There will be a pair of gloves there and that she will have to put them on. There get out of the truck and go to the drivers side front wheel and look in the center of the wheel. The little thingy in the center will have to be turn in a counter clock wise till it locks(or what ever way it needs to be turned). Then go to the other side front wheel and do the same with it. Then get back in in the truck and take off the gloves,,,etc.!!!LOL!!
Just kidding guys she ain't quite that bad,,,yet!
God bless,
Gary
 
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Old Mar 26, 2007 | 07:38 PM
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Yep, I even went as far as locking them in for my wife and then just unlocking them in spring when there was no more snow. Just pull back on the stick ...

> Thanks for taking the time for getting this info for me

You are welcome :-) one of the best benefits of Club FTE for me is getting the searches.
 
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