73xafalcon....thanks. A guy I know is pushing the aussie blocks here is us and saying they are higher nickle content in a manner that makes it look significant. Man I love this site.


f1- ford made the 302c in australia...cleveland block but different crank, rods, pistons and heads...the heads are closed chambered 2v which are gaining in popularity here in the us as they fix the compression and quench problem in both the 351c and 400 engines brought about by smog crap.

it's real exciting to have those 'stock' ford parts available as a less expensive alternative to alloy heads. After I finish my next 400 I'll be working on a 302c or 351c with the oz heads...can't wait.

 

Hey a buddy of mine has one of my old 302C and he is building it for a 1979 Pace Car Mustang. He's dropping in a T-5 in place of the SROD 4spd and a 8.8 diff, front suspension and brakes from a later model (90-93) Mustang. But other than those things, it looks bone stock. Even those late model parts are being made to look 1979 original. Neat car. Oh, and the motor is a 1979 build date 302C

--J

 

G'day Pud12343,

I'm assuming you are an Aussie from your profile being outside the US ? and you've got a clevo in a '76 F100.

Roger Dowty and 73XAFalcon are all correct with their information provided to you.

As a fellow Aussie, I'll add my 2 cents worth. Firstly, don't overbore any more than .030" (30 thou.). I'm going through this issue right now with a 302C block made in Cleveland and fitted to a November 1973 Aussie Ford Fairmont. It's been bored .030" and I have had to sleeve three cylinders due to nasty pits appearing. Aussie Blocks were being made from about 1975-76 onwards so it's quite possible your 76 351C has got a US block and not an Aussie block. Aussie blocks are no better and very iffy over .040" in any case. I have a 1979 351 "Aussie" black block (small dizzy hole) out of an XD Falcon that has FC cast into it so the FG is no certain way to determine an Aussie block so it would appear. This block has been bored .040" and is cracked in number 5. What is certain is early dizzy's will not fit the later "Black" block, without machining the dizzy shaft.

The supposed thick wall aussie cleveland blocks made for Nascar had serious core shift and were rejected in the USA and sent back to Australia. Ford Australia then used them (yes they did !!) in local production cars, mostly XE's I believe.

My next thoughts are aimed at "cheap" horsepower on an Aussie 351C which I'm assuming has a reasonable bottom end, that is NOT stuffed.

You can bolt on a set of 302C Aussie Heads for an instant compression increase bringing you up to arround 11:1. You'll need to run 95 octane or better (ideal for LP gas) but you'll pick up quite a bit of power. As the previous learned gentlemen have indicated this horsepower gain is due to the quench head design and smaller chamber volume of arround 59cc. Some careful chamber massaging and polishing will open this up a little.....maybe 2 cc ?.

Then buy yourself a stocker 4bbl manifold (Cast Iron) off of a XC XD XE. These are dirt cheap. At Swap Meets or wrecking yards $20-$50. Make sure you get a good EGR plate if you are going to run the Thermoquad. EGR plates cost more than good used Thermoquads. If you decide on going Holley, you'll need a carby adaptor and you can choose not to run the EGR plate if you wish. The EGR plates corrode badly. Don't go overboard with a big carb as stocker type aussie clevelands don't rev much above 4500-5000 with out some serious work.

If you choose the big rebuild avenue then you'll find heaps of info. here on FTE and on other aussie Ford forums.

Keep your eyes peeled on the Trading Post or Feebay for performance/economy grind camshaft like the Crow 21666, very similar to the Summit grind cam 270-280 duration 484"/510" lift, or the numerous Torque cams. S/H Headers for effies are rare in Australia, grab 'em if you find a set. New sets are made by several manufacturers, but be prepared to part with $600-$700.00.

Make sure you've got a 2" dual exhaust minimum or 3" single system. If you are handy with a welder you can fabricate your own dual exhaust from the manifolds back. I did this on our 75 F100 with 302C a few years back. The complete dual 2 1/4" system with mufflers clamps and brackets, sourced from several cars from the local U Pull it for about $60.00 the lot. Then a days cutting and welding.

Electronic dizzy's are a bit hard to find cheap, but your best bet is a unit out of an XD XE. Aftermarket units, there is plenty available.

I think that just about covers it from me, sorry about rabbiting on.

Catch ya' later..........Barry.

 

Hey Barry,

He's in NA, I already asked I haven't responded with suggestions because I'd like to know a little more about the rig and its intended use. But as you well know, building the engines on either side of the creek is the same it's just picking the right parts at the right price that are available on your side of the creek bank.

--J

 

The motors sometimes pop up on e-Bay from guys that have imported those for the heads. Those same sellers are often selling the cranks and rods. All you would need is a 351C block and some 351C pistons and you could build your own. You would want the closed chamber 2V heads to get the proper compression ratio. The 1976-1983 Aussie 302C/351C motors all came with 4bbl Carter Thermoquads on a cast iron spreadbore intake manifold. These same motors came only with the small port 2V heads, again either closed chamber on the 302C or open chamber on the 351C. The 1972-early 1976 302C was only available with a WW series Stromberg 2bbl carb.

 

"...as the 52 states why is..."

point of order, what are the other 2 states, how long have i been asleep?

 

states of confusion and denial? at least those are my two states

 

i didnt even realize it said i was outside the U.S.....im in Virginia....but anyway can i just supercharge it? i saw one with a turbo on google video, and that seems like a good way