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alright, im new here, so i dont know if i posted this in the right place or not, sorry if i didnt, but i have a 1976 F100 with a 351 Cleveland. im wondering how i can get the most horsepower out of, so give me some ideas. its already bored .0060 over and im runnin the origional 2 barrel carb on it.
alright, im new here, so i dont know if i posted this in the right place or not, sorry if i didnt, but i have a 1976 F100 with a 351 Cleveland. im wondering how i can get the most horsepower out of, so give me some ideas. its already bored .0060 over and im runnin the origional 2 barrel carb on it.
Pud,
Are you in Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, or North America? That will make a difference as to what type answer you can expect. If you are in the southern hemisphere, there are some parts more easily available to you than in NA.
hey.......something fishy going on here lol.
In the 8 years Ive been posting on message boards this is the FIRST time I have EVER seen someone else use "pud" as a log in.
Sorry I cant help you out tho.
cleveland is a cleveland unless you have an aus block if soniced right they will go to .125 over.
Humm, not hardly. I have one of the XE blocks and it has been sonic checked. It's only marginally thicker in the cylinder walls than several of my US cast D-block Clevelands. Overall, I wouldn't take it any further out than .060". As far as clevelands being clevelands, you still must know what you have. If he were in Australia he would have to determine if he had an early Cleveland or a late, black block Cleveland. Black blocks use a different dizzy and the 2 do not interchange. He would also need to determine head type as it is not uncommon to find a 351 running the closed chamber 302 heads down there. He would want to determine if his was a real 351 or if it was a 302C running a 351 crank but the longer 302C rods. Finally, as I said in my post, he would have some parts more readily available then we do in the US. He would also have to pay double and triple for some of the parts we can pick up easily. Those factors do impact what he will need and what he won't need to reach his goals.
ill have to find out about the transmission and everything, i had to get a new one put in it, dont know anything about it cause i dont get it back til tommorow. and thats the first time ive seen anyone post anything as pud too lol...i use it on ever other website as my user name
Humm, not hardly. I have one of the XE blocks and it has been sonic checked. It's only marginally thicker in the cylinder walls than several of my US cast D-block Clevelands. Overall, I wouldn't take it any further out than .060".
He would want to determine if his was a real 351 or if it was a 302C running a 351 crank but the longer 302C rods..
not sure but i thought the higher nickle count in the oz block affected max bore. Also was under assumption that 302c has to have 302c crank and the 302c longer rods on a 351 crank was still a 351 with special pistons and the rod keeps the piston at the top a bit longer helping low end. So if my K is wrong i'd certainly want to know!!!
Now to the questions at hand....
there are some basic, stsndard upgrades that others will talk about and there are other options like using higher compresion heads. A couple prof engine builders i know swear that the only way to get the mighty C to really run as originally designed is to use close chamber heads like aftermarket or 302c heads imported from down under. TMI, sponsor, will have the parts regardless of how you go. I like the idea of the oz heads ported a bit with intake and cam to match. But those are rebuild ideas...
302c "BOSS" windsor block diff engine another beast entirely. Splitting cyl walls in a clever is too popular. 550hp will do and nominal boost of 8 or more on most .030 bores. Get your bores sonic tested and take the advice of your machine shop. I have no issues pegging an 8000rpm tach with my street stock cleveland.
302c "BOSS" windsor block diff engine another beast entirely. Splitting cyl walls in a clever is too popular. 550hp will do and nominal boost of 8 or more on most .030 bores. Get your bores sonic tested and take the advice of your machine shop. I have no issues pegging an 8000rpm tach with my street stock cleveland.
A 302 Cleveland is an Australian/New Zealand/South African motor built from a destroked 351C. It uses a 3" stroke crank with a 6" long rod and a 351C style piston. You can stroke a 302C to a 351C by swapping the crank and rods OR swapping the crank and using a set of ACL pistons. 302C (and Aussie 351C) blocks were cast at the Geelong foundry (GF casting mark) and share nothing with a Boss 302 which is a Windsor based block. 302C was sold from 1972 - 1983 and are where you find the closed chamber 2V heads that are all the rage on e-Bay.
not sure but i thought the higher nickle count in the oz block affected max bore. Also was under assumption that 302c has to have 302c crank and the 302c longer rods on a 351 crank was still a 351 with special pistons and the rod keeps the piston at the top a bit longer helping low end. So if my K is wrong i'd certainly want to know!!!.
Higher nickle and thicker bores....I'll stand by my pile of Aussie scrape and say the iron is not any higher in nickle content than the US blocks. If they are then it is only marginal as the ones I've had bored didn't negatively affect the machine tools. As for thicker bores, on the non XE blocks there is no difference in bore thickness that I have seen. I've had several blocks from early to late. Some of the later ones had some bad core shift.
Yes, if you drop a 351C crank into a 302C you will need the rods OR a set of ACL pistons that let you run the longer 302C rods. Final engine size will still be 351 (actually 352ci--Ford can't do math.
73XAFALCON Clearly I am narrow minded to the fact the the internet opens us to equal plan with no continental boundres. This of the 302c is news to me. I'm curious now of when who or where you aquire such beast. As far as the 52states why is there such limit on these special engines in use or know of. As an employee of ford and raised as a "FORD" family name I'd like to know more. Source's or explain please.