front end alignment
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Mine was unbolt, swap and rebolt. Simple swap, great results.
The price was steep, but since I have already saved 800 plus dollars on tires, I think I will recoup the cost in a couple more years and be dollars ahead.
Plus the traction lock has already made me much happier and the truck muck more unstoppable out in the mud.
Win win for me.
You need the axle and steering linkage, you also have to remember what it came out of when you need parts for it.
I walk around with a list of what truck model and year several of my parts came from already, mine is somewhere between a 1985 and 2002 F250, F350 or F450 with a 6.9, 7.3 or 7.3 turbo motor if I were to get technical about it.
The price was steep, but since I have already saved 800 plus dollars on tires, I think I will recoup the cost in a couple more years and be dollars ahead.
Plus the traction lock has already made me much happier and the truck muck more unstoppable out in the mud.
Win win for me.
You need the axle and steering linkage, you also have to remember what it came out of when you need parts for it.
I walk around with a list of what truck model and year several of my parts came from already, mine is somewhere between a 1985 and 2002 F250, F350 or F450 with a 6.9, 7.3 or 7.3 turbo motor if I were to get technical about it.
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,585
Likes: 1
From: Duluth, Mn.
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
I walk around with a list of what truck model and year several of my parts came from already, mine is somewhere between a 1985 and 2002 F250, F350 or F450 with a 6.9, 7.3 or 7.3 turbo motor if I were to get technical about it.
If it were me, I'd replace everything while under there. From the ball joints to the pitman arm. When you take it in for alignment, 99% of the time the tech will come out and tell you they need replacing in order for him to "get it right"
At LEAST, I'd replace the tie rod ends, when doing ball joints.
I had a differnt experiance with Ford service. The tech had the camber cones, but said it was pretty close, and I should be allright. 20K miles later and my tires are wearing to the inside. GRRRRRR. When I did a complete rebuild of the 85 2WD, I took it to a place that does everything from cars to semi's. They had a rack on the wall with 20-30 Ball joint camber cones on it. I wish I'd have taken my 4x4 there.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
I do have a rather good dealer close to me.
Any of the chain alignment shops here have no problems with a two wheel drive, but they want nothing to do with a 4x4 camber or caster adjustment.
The techs at Ford had no problem with either adjustment on both the original 44 or the replacement 60 I put in.
I really get a kick out of my 86 Ford with over 300,000 miles on it drives better than either a 2003 Ram 3500 or a 2000 Ram 2500, both of them are 4x4.
Several of the guys I work with have driven all the trucks listed, they all like mine better except for the actual Dodge owners. Or maybe they just will not admit what the others all say is true.
Any of the chain alignment shops here have no problems with a two wheel drive, but they want nothing to do with a 4x4 camber or caster adjustment.
The techs at Ford had no problem with either adjustment on both the original 44 or the replacement 60 I put in.
I really get a kick out of my 86 Ford with over 300,000 miles on it drives better than either a 2003 Ram 3500 or a 2000 Ram 2500, both of them are 4x4.
Several of the guys I work with have driven all the trucks listed, they all like mine better except for the actual Dodge owners. Or maybe they just will not admit what the others all say is true.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 549
Likes: 1
From: Mississippi
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
Mine was unbolt, swap and rebolt. Simple swap, great results.
speedrdr
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 15
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Actually I could have used my 44 calipers, they would have clipped right in.
If you happen onto a 70's model 60 it is not as easy and they used king pins instead of ball joints.
Also I forgot to mention you need the trac bar and mounting bracket for it.
You also need to remove a couple brackets that the IFS mounts to now.
It does take a little time, but it is still a bolt out, bolt in swap.
If you happen onto a 70's model 60 it is not as easy and they used king pins instead of ball joints.
Also I forgot to mention you need the trac bar and mounting bracket for it.
You also need to remove a couple brackets that the IFS mounts to now.
It does take a little time, but it is still a bolt out, bolt in swap.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 125
Likes: 0
From: Tacoma, WA
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
I walk around with a list of what truck model and year several of my parts came from already, mine is somewhere between a 1985 and 2002 F250, F350 or F450 with a 6.9, 7.3 or 7.3 turbo motor if I were to get technical about it.
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
As mention changing the ball joints requires you to pull the axel drive shafts. Be extra carefull when you remove them that you do not nick the differential seal.
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