@#^$#@ non cranking 7.3
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 549
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From: Mississippi
@#^$#@ non cranking 7.3
quick question. when i turn the ignition key, all i get is one click and nothing else. know the batteries are hot and it's got to be in the wiring somewhere. cable connections are freshly cleaned so know it's not them. any suggestions as to the most likely bad connection, or do i just start at the other end of the battery cables and start checking everything?
speedrdr
speedrdr
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My guess would be either a bad starter or bad cables (esp the + one). Does everything go dim when you turn the key? Take a look at the positive cable around the passenger side battery. Is the insulation dark, swollen, or cracked like it's been hot? If so, the cable may be burned up internally.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Mississippi
thanks tbone91, 
but don't know if anything dims or not 'cause haven't tried it anytime except in daylight. last time i worked on it in the dark cost me fingernail AND money. LOL looked at the + cable from the driver side and the insulation is off the cable for about an inch and half and the cable looks pretty rough. guess i'll be making another set up and try that first. the starter was working like champ before this episode, so hoping that's not it.
speedrdr
but don't know if anything dims or not 'cause haven't tried it anytime except in daylight. last time i worked on it in the dark cost me fingernail AND money. LOL looked at the + cable from the driver side and the insulation is off the cable for about an inch and half and the cable looks pretty rough. guess i'll be making another set up and try that first. the starter was working like champ before this episode, so hoping that's not it.speedrdr
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 118
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From: Winthrop, Minnesota
If your batteries and cable connections are good and the starter relay is good and the starter is good, I would suggest checking your ignition switch which is located on the top side of the lower part of the steering column. If the ignition switch is good then check the mechanical linkage that connects the ignition switch to the ignition key tumbler on the steering column. The linkage is prone to breaking inside of the steering column. I had to replace mine earlier this summer. Good luck. Jim
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Corvallis/Albany, Ore.
Quick test for your starter: Have a friend try to crank it while you crawl underneath with a ball peen hammer and tap on the starter with it. If the tap causes it to start cranking, it's yer starter.
Good luck!
--Finn
Good luck!
--Finn
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
Originally Posted by speedrdr
looked at the + cable from the driver side and the insulation is off the cable for about an inch and half and the cable looks pretty rough.
speedrdr
speedrdr
replace the positive cable from battery to starter, and all your problems will magically go away.
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From: Mackinaw, IL
I had all of my cables made at our local Interstate Battery store. I had the same problem as you. After replacing every cable in the truck I got rid of the problem. Now I have a charging problem. It never ends!!!
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Elder User
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From: Mississippi
thanks guys for all the help and input. have stock of cable left over from rigging stick welder. i know it's probably overkill, but what the hey, if it works on a welder, it's got to work on a ford, right?
speedrdr
speedrdr
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
when you look at the battery positive cable after you get it out, you will see it is actually larger than normal stick welder lead wire.
the battery cable is 250-300 amp, compared to the 175-200 amp welder wire.
the battery cable is 250-300 amp, compared to the 175-200 amp welder wire.
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This happened to me awhile back, it turned out that I had burned the small wire that crosses the relay with the hot battery cable. I believe that it runs from the relay on the right fender down to the starter selenoid.
