Air Intake
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Air Intake
I am looking to upgrade my K&N air filter to an AMSOIL filter. I know that I can get a drop in replacement, but I was wondering if I could utilize one of their other filters with a homemade setup? Does anyone have ideas or pictures?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Parker, CO
Most folks who build their own intake use the 6637 filter from Napa. Or you can order them online from www.fleetfilter.com. Scroll down and look for the 46637 aftermarket filter for the 7.3L. All you need is that filter, one additional 4" hose clamp, and a 4" O/D exhaust pipe about 4" long. Remove the filterminder, air intake sensor, lid, and old filter from the current airbox. The rest of the box is held in by 4 bolts, two on the bottom and two next to be battery lid. Remove those bolts and slide the box out. Leave the tray in the bottom and hook up the exhaust pipe, clamp and filter. Lay it down on the tray so you can close the hood. Zip tie the filterminder and air intake temp sensor to something so they don't bounce around, and you're done.
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how big is the opening for the 6637? I also have a 5.9 CTD that I was able to use the stock intake tube with a homemade PVC adapter. I used a short 4" piece to attach the filter to. Connected the 4" piece into a 4"-3" PVC reducer. Then connected that to the stock intake tube. Was able to mount the sensor on the PVC and use the monster 4510 AMSOIL filter. Still trying to figure out if that will work in the 7.3, and if there is room for the filter. Here is a picture of one like I did. Well maybe not, won't let me.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
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From: North of Greenville
SAK... welcome to FTE!!
Curtis is right. most of the homemade units by folks here in FTE are oriented to the 6637 filter, which is also cometimes called a Kwik or Tymar intake.
In my 2002 model, I actually could not let the 6637 filter lay flat because of the two protruding plastic "fingers" from the stock air box. I had to tilt the filter upwards with the closed end of it sort of nestling down between the plastic fingers. If you look in my gallery, you can see the pics and details of how I did mine.
Curtis is right. most of the homemade units by folks here in FTE are oriented to the 6637 filter, which is also cometimes called a Kwik or Tymar intake.
In my 2002 model, I actually could not let the 6637 filter lay flat because of the two protruding plastic "fingers" from the stock air box. I had to tilt the filter upwards with the closed end of it sort of nestling down between the plastic fingers. If you look in my gallery, you can see the pics and details of how I did mine.
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So you used a piece exhaust to bridge the gap? Was it four inch?
Originally Posted by F250-Newbie
SAK... welcome to FTE!!
Curtis is right. most of the homemade units by folks here in FTE are oriented to the 6637 filter, which is also cometimes called a Kwik or Tymar intake.
In my 2002 model, I actually could not let the 6637 filter lay flat because of the two protruding plastic "fingers" from the stock air box. I had to tilt the filter upwards with the closed end of it sort of nestling down between the plastic fingers. If you look in my gallery, you can see the pics and details of how I did mine.
Curtis is right. most of the homemade units by folks here in FTE are oriented to the 6637 filter, which is also cometimes called a Kwik or Tymar intake.
In my 2002 model, I actually could not let the 6637 filter lay flat because of the two protruding plastic "fingers" from the stock air box. I had to tilt the filter upwards with the closed end of it sort of nestling down between the plastic fingers. If you look in my gallery, you can see the pics and details of how I did mine.
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Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: North of Greenville
Hey, Curtis & SAK, I didn't need anything to connect my piece of 4-inch transition to the filter. I set the filter upright on my workbench and simply shoved the pipe into the hard plastic extruded end of the filter. It was such a tight fit that I could barely get it in. I kept tapping it lightly until it bottomed out on a little ridge, or lip, that was part of the molded plastic extrusion on the inside. Overall, I got about 2-1/2 inches of the pipe into the filter housing. I've been checking it regularly, and the whole arrangement fits so tight under the hood that there is really no way for the pipe to slip back out. It's as tight today as it was 4K miles ago when I put it in.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
My 6637 also slipped in the stock intake tube with some coaxing, and no other mods to bottom of the box. It just lays in there. I would imagine that the next time it won't be nearly as hard since the tube will have stretched a bit.
To make sure it doesn't slip off, clean the end of the intake tube with cleaner plus a lot of guys rough up the filter a bit with a rasp or something. Also, if you intend to use the stock clamp, you'll probably need to cut a little of the alignment tab off. I needed nothing but the filter and a knife to install mine. Took 30 minutes including fighting with the airbox bolts next to the battery. I'm working away from the house for the time being, so I don't have all my tools with me. A 1/4" socket extention would've made it a 15 minute job...
Joe
To make sure it doesn't slip off, clean the end of the intake tube with cleaner plus a lot of guys rough up the filter a bit with a rasp or something. Also, if you intend to use the stock clamp, you'll probably need to cut a little of the alignment tab off. I needed nothing but the filter and a knife to install mine. Took 30 minutes including fighting with the airbox bolts next to the battery. I'm working away from the house for the time being, so I don't have all my tools with me. A 1/4" socket extention would've made it a 15 minute job...
Joe
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Parker, CO
Yeah I used to run without the exhaust pipe piece between the filter and intake pipe. However it was shortly after a member here posted that his popped off, I checked mine and sure enough it was getting loose. It wasn't enough to let any dirt in, but a good hard bump or some offroading might have knocked it loose. That's when I decided to go with the exhaust pipe to make sure that doesn't happen. That's also why I always recommend a pipe to go in there. It's only a few bucks, but it's worthwhile to prevent future issues.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
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From: North of Greenville
I, too, tried mine without the transition piece of pipe, and found it almost completely loose within a week. Perhaps, though, if I had roughened up the surface, it might have stayed in place. Regardless, I now have the peace of mind that what's under the hood right now doesn't stand a chance of coming loose.
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Has anyone tried using a piece of 4" PVC? I have a local diesel shop that I think can get me a piece of exhaust for nothing, but just in case. How snug is the fit between the stock tube and exhaust pipe?
Post Fiend
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Originally Posted by SAK
Has anyone tried using a piece of 4" PVC? I have a local diesel shop that I think can get me a piece of exhaust for nothing, but just in case. How snug is the fit between the stock tube and exhaust pipe?