Air Conditioner
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 298
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From: Mexico
Air Conditioner
I see that there are a lot of questions about cold weather problems but I am in the Tropics and need my air conditioner to work right,
My air conditioner starts out cold then cycles between warm and cold. Why would it do this?
1990 F-250SD 7.3 NA
My air conditioner starts out cold then cycles between warm and cold. Why would it do this?
1990 F-250SD 7.3 NA
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: Monroe, WA
Could be a sticky cycling switch too. Thats the one that screws on the side of the dryer canister on the passenger side. If you put a couple fingers on it you can actually feel them tick as they come on and off with the low side pressure changes. Sometimes a tap with a screwdiver handle will make them come back on if they are sticking. If it is sticking, just get another switch from Napa and replace it. There is a tire valve under the switch so you don't loose your charge on replacement.
If tapping the switch doesn't help, chances are tjc called it.
If tapping the switch doesn't help, chances are tjc called it.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
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From: Mexico
Air Conditioner
I just smacked the cycling switch a couple of times like you suggested and it seems to have worked. I will have to wait until I get back to the States to get a new switch.
Thanks for the help everyone.
Thanks for the help everyone.
Originally Posted by Spectramac
Could be a sticky cycling switch too. Thats the one that screws on the side of the dryer canister on the passenger side. If you put a couple fingers on it you can actually feel them tick as they come on and off with the low side pressure changes. Sometimes a tap with a screwdiver handle will make them come back on if they are sticking. If it is sticking, just get another switch from Napa and replace it. There is a tire valve under the switch so you don't loose your charge on replacement.
If tapping the switch doesn't help, chances are tjc called it.
If tapping the switch doesn't help, chances are tjc called it.
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Boy, I sure wish that fixed my problem. I'm not sure, but I think I have a slow freon leak. What do you think the chances are it's just bad orings at the conections. The truck sat for about a year without running the A/C or defrosters
Anyone know a good place to buy a set of r-12 gages and vacume pump. I know the gages would be the first thing to see if freon is even present.
I still have several cans of the old R-12 that I can put into the system, but if I have to open the system up, what all do I need to replace. I know the line dryer....but how do you change the oil in the compressor, etc.
the main thing I need to start with first is the gauges.
Thanks for the help.
Mike
Anyone know a good place to buy a set of r-12 gages and vacume pump. I know the gages would be the first thing to see if freon is even present.
I still have several cans of the old R-12 that I can put into the system, but if I have to open the system up, what all do I need to replace. I know the line dryer....but how do you change the oil in the compressor, etc.
the main thing I need to start with first is the gauges.
Thanks for the help.
Mike
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Tuned
Joined: Dec 2006
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From: houston,tx
if your truck did use the old r12then the oil was a mineral base , this means if you do have a small leak there is a fair chance dirt would collect around the leak area(because of the oil that seeps out with it. if the system is comepletely empty you can charge the system with nitrogen Or air if you must up to 350-400psi and then spray the system down with dish liquid/water solution and look for bubbles.DO NOT OPPERATE THE SYSTEM WITH THIS in it!
if it is partially charged the system can be injected with a u-v dye (comes in a kit)
there is no efective way to change the compressor oil as some is always trapped just add the apropriate amount when doing a system service -usually about an ounce unless replacing a component.
if it is partially charged the system can be injected with a u-v dye (comes in a kit)
there is no efective way to change the compressor oil as some is always trapped just add the apropriate amount when doing a system service -usually about an ounce unless replacing a component.
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From: Monroe, WA
Yeah, the best way to find a leak is to look for the greasy spots. Shaft seals on compressors are a popular spot to leak as well. Also look over the condenser to make sure it hasn't taken a rock thru the grill at some point. I had to replace the evap core on mine 3 years ago cuz it started leaking for no reason. Had to use the electronic leak detector on that one.
With R-12 phased out the only place to find a set of gauges is probably going to be a swap meet or Ebay. How many 12 cans do you have? That system holds over 3 lbs!
With R-12 phased out the only place to find a set of gauges is probably going to be a swap meet or Ebay. How many 12 cans do you have? That system holds over 3 lbs!
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