COmputer removal
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Well its all done and significantly cleaner in the engine bay. All the traces of computer, harness, and emmissions has been removed. The truck started right up. I have to adjust timing now and fine tune stuff. Anyone have suggestions on timing settings for a 302 with a 2 barrell, auto C6,. thanks again
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From: Virginia
The best way to time it is by ear. Start out at about 10btdc, and after it's warmed up, pull a long hill in high gear and see if it pings. You can keep going up on the timing till it pings, and then back off a couple of degrees. After you are done and the engine hot, cut the engine off, wait about 5 minutes, and then crank it back up. If the starter seems to struggle, you may have to back the timig off a little bit more till the starter spins the engine easily.
Running the timing as high as you can will give the best fuel mileage and power.
Running the timing as high as you can will give the best fuel mileage and power.
Last edited by Franklin2; Mar 8, 2007 at 02:11 PM.
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Got it all warm and adjusted the timing by ear, sounded great in idle and in gear. I took it out for a drive and was pinging under full acceleration. I am having a really tough time seeing the timing marks. If I am pinging can I rotate the disty counterclockwise and play with it by ear?
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From: Virginia
Yes, turn the dist the direction that makes it run slower and that will retard the timing, just a little bit at a time. You really only need the light after you are done, so you can make a note of where you are so you won't have to go through this again.
If you turn the engine over by hand, and crawl underneath the front, you should be able to shine up the pulley damper and make the marks stand out more with some fine sandpaper. Sometimes you can also paint some white-out on the damper if you want to shoot for a particular timing value.
If you turn the engine over by hand, and crawl underneath the front, you should be able to shine up the pulley damper and make the marks stand out more with some fine sandpaper. Sometimes you can also paint some white-out on the damper if you want to shoot for a particular timing value.
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Well I moved the disty a small amount and played with the timing. The truck runs and starts very nice (nicer than with the half connected computer). Anyway I no longer hear a ping when I floor it but it still sounds like the idle is high in park. Idle appears normal in gear. When I back the timing lower the idle moves lower but the truck hesitates under acceleration. I will look for the usual vaccuum leaks as that would be an easy cause for the idle to be high in park. I have backed the idle set screw out as far as I can on the holley.....and of course no tach, just doing it by ear....Thanks again for the help, anyone have a suggestion?
Last edited by DVM04; Mar 9, 2007 at 08:40 PM.
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From: Virginia
Where do you have your vacuum line to the dist connected? If you have it on manifold vacuum, it will give you a high idle and really bang into gear with an automatic tranny. If you hook the dist vac line to a ported vacuum source, there will be no vacuum on the dist at idle, only when you start pushing on the gas pedal. This will slow the idle down a lot. Then you can re-adjust your idle speed and mixture settings.
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I do have the carb connected directly to the plate below the carb. This is sounds like my problem. and yes it does slam into gear, not smooth shifting at all. Where is a ported vaccuum source? Is that the two raised ports in front and in the rear of the intake manifold? Each port has a three prong vaccuum port on it....Thanks again for the help.
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From: Virginia
The ported vacuum source is going to come from the carb. I have forgotten what carb you have, but on the Holley's it's usually the one up high on the passenger front of the carb.
What you can do is just start pulling vacuum plugs off the carb. Find one that does not have vacuum on it with the engine idling. Then while holding you finger over the port, rev the engine a little bit and see if it starts sucking on your finger. This is the type of port you are looking for.
What you can do is just start pulling vacuum plugs off the carb. Find one that does not have vacuum on it with the engine idling. Then while holding you finger over the port, rev the engine a little bit and see if it starts sucking on your finger. This is the type of port you are looking for.
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I will look for the vaccuum line on the carb, I currently have the disty advance hooked up to the port on the manifold that has three prongs coming off it. I dont feel vaccuum when I touch the port. These ports were a part of the emmissions system when it was connected. I will look for the port on the holley 2300 and see if I can find it. I did the sandpaper trick today and found 10 degrees BTDC so timing is good to go. She is coming along nicely, took her for a 30 mile drive today. Not bad for owning it a few weeks. Thanks again
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From: Virginia
If this is a picture of your carb, look on page 6 of this link. It shows the different model numbers and the vacuum ports. You want what they call the "timed" vacuum port.
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...199R7950-7.pdf
http://www.holley.com/data/Products/...199R7950-7.pdf
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Thanks for the pic, that is the carb, its a holley 2300, 4100 series. I founf the vaccuum line off teh carb and felt the vacuum when I hit the throttle. The engine actually idles smoother now than prior and starts right up. I will due the tune up this weekend and then move onto the next project. I think that is going to be the shifting. Still has a lag and harsh shift to the C6. Will keep you posted. Thanks again for the help
eric
eric
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