COmputer removal
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 517
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Wire colors:
At Coil= 1(R-LG stripe) + 1 (BLK)
Oil pressure sender 1 (W-R stripe)
Water Temp=1 (R-W stripe) > These all go to a four pin connector in the engine bay compartment. Wire colors are (W-R sripe)+(R W stripe) (R-Y hash)+(Red LG stripe)
At Coil= 1(R-LG stripe) + 1 (BLK)
Oil pressure sender 1 (W-R stripe)
Water Temp=1 (R-W stripe) > These all go to a four pin connector in the engine bay compartment. Wire colors are (W-R sripe)+(R W stripe) (R-Y hash)+(Red LG stripe)
Last edited by 82F1507.5; Mar 5, 2007 at 04:15 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 517
Likes: 2
From: Texas
The wire colors remain the same. Water and Oil go to the PC connector on the back of the cluster.
The four pin (round) connector I posted about is on the LF wheelhouse if you did not cut it off.
The four pin (round) connector I posted about is on the LF wheelhouse if you did not cut it off.
Last edited by 82F1507.5; Mar 5, 2007 at 04:19 PM.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 517
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Originally Posted by Franklin2
I thought the guage wiring was seperate from the computer harness?
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
I havent cut anything, just disconnected and removed
Just to confirm the 4 pin connector on the Drivers fender I am using three of the four wires:
Coil: R- G stripe wire on the fenderwell gets cut and spliced into the + side of the coil
Oil pressure sender (W-R stripe)
Water Temp (R-W stripe)
For kicks and giggles does anyone know what the last wire goes to? Should be: R-Y hash
You guys truly are the best. Thanks for the help.
Just to confirm the 4 pin connector on the Drivers fender I am using three of the four wires:
Coil: R- G stripe wire on the fenderwell gets cut and spliced into the + side of the coil
Oil pressure sender (W-R stripe)
Water Temp (R-W stripe)
For kicks and giggles does anyone know what the last wire goes to? Should be: R-Y hash
You guys truly are the best. Thanks for the help.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,997
Likes: 2,742
From: Virginia
Originally Posted by 82F1507.5
I posted directly from the Ford wiring schematic diagram. The diagram shows pin connector C-325 between the sending units and the PC connector plug. If it is not that way, then I am at a loss, because I used this same schematic for my trucks.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 517
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Originally Posted by DVM04
I havent cut anything, just disconnected and removed
Just to confirm the 4 pin connector on the Drivers fender I am using three of the four wires:
Coil: R- G stripe wire on the fenderwell gets cut and spliced into the + side of the coil
Oil pressure sender (W-R stripe)
Water Temp (R-W stripe)
For kicks and giggles does anyone know what the last wire goes to? Should be: R-Y hash
You guys truly are the best. Thanks for the help.
Just to confirm the 4 pin connector on the Drivers fender I am using three of the four wires:
Coil: R- G stripe wire on the fenderwell gets cut and spliced into the + side of the coil
Oil pressure sender (W-R stripe)
Water Temp (R-W stripe)
For kicks and giggles does anyone know what the last wire goes to? Should be: R-Y hash
You guys truly are the best. Thanks for the help.
(R-Y hash) = From carburetor control solenoid to fuse panel.
Yes PC = printed circuit on back of cluster.
FWIW....
I never cut or splice into the harness that goes back through the firewall. I try to use the original connectors on the engine side for splices because those are easiest to find and remove from a donor, if that makes any sense.
Tachometer wire colors:
(DG-Y dash) + (BLK-LG dash) From PC to connector C-208A (C-208A) is the PC connector itself and identified as C-208A to distiguish it from the idiot light connector C-208 (Without gauges)
Last edited by 82F1507.5; Mar 6, 2007 at 08:22 AM.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
I guess I dont need that wire, I agree with you about cutting the harness and wire. I would rather find a donor or purchase the 4 prong connector new. I have purchased them through Rockauto before and this has worked out great. Simple plug and play with a little soldering. Thanks again
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 517
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Originally Posted by DVM04
I guess I dont need that wire, I agree with you about cutting the harness and wire. I would rather find a donor or purchase the 4 prong connector new. I have purchased them through Rockauto before and this has worked out great. Simple plug and play with a little soldering. Thanks again
I don't use that solenoid on my 460 because I flat don't need it. It powers the stepper throttle solenoid when the A/C is turned on (among other things). The engine is stout enough to handle the extra load without needing to rev up. I use the old choke wire and that wire to power my header dumps. Those are wired to the "Front/Rear Tank Selector" on the A/C control to keep everything looking stock.
The carburetor I am using has no choke, no butterfly, and is polished where those parts once resided. Cold starts require a light foot on the pedal until engine gets up to normal operating temperature. Driving with a cold engine is not possible. Gives you plenty of time to make sure your harness is secure....LOL!
Last edited by 82F1507.5; Mar 6, 2007 at 08:49 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
I am using a 2300 holley with electric choke, ( I like the choke in cold winters) I need to find a 12v power source to wire the choke too, (my least concern at the moment, the choke is ziptied open.) I am will get it all together and hoepfully see what happens, will keep you updated.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 517
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Originally Posted by DVM04
I am using a 2300 holley with electric choke, ( I like the choke in cold winters) I need to find a 12v power source to wire the choke too, (my least concern at the moment, the choke is ziptied open.) I am will get it all together and hoepfully see what happens, will keep you updated.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
I will take a look at that as well, I think I have seen the wire you are referring too. ( There are not too many wires left under the hood) I have the entire computer, ignition module and wire harness if anyone is looking for one. I have it listed on ebay but will send it to one of you guys if you need it for all the help you have given. Thanks again
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 517
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Originally Posted by DVM04
I will take a look at that as well, I think I have seen the wire you are referring too. ( There are not too many wires left under the hood) I have the entire computer, ignition module and wire harness if anyone is looking for one. I have it listed on ebay but will send it to one of you guys if you need it for all the help you have given. Thanks again
The EEC computer modules don't normally bring squat on eBay, especially if you are not absolutely certain it is 100% good. Now, the pigtail connector does have some value to those who may have fried one. Chances are you will not get even a nibble, but don't let me discourage you, because you never know until you post it.
I have a few in my shop, but to be brutally honest, I don't have a clue what model or year they came from because they were never identified when I got them. I would have to look up the numbers and guesstimate what each one was for, and even then I'm not certain any of them are good. I save them for the pigtails that are still connected.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,997
Likes: 2,742
From: Virginia
Originally Posted by 82F1507.5
Choke is (W-BLK stripe) single connector always hot engine run. Your truck should have that wire buried on the RF wheelhouse. It is on the alternator harness.
Other vehicles use a 12 volt key-on source, but run it through an oil pressure switch.
The reason for either method is if the engine doesn't start, and you keep fooling around with it and leave the key on for a period of time, the choke starts pulling off, but the engine hasn't started yet and is not warming up. So it makes it even harder to start.