COmputer removal
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
COmputer removal
How do I cut the computer out of my 1983 F150 stepside. I have nothing but a birds nest in my engine compartment of vaccuum hoses, sensors and a thick pile of crap wires that run under teh dash and cab and plug into the computer under teh seat. Can I just rip everything out and hot wire an aftermarket disty? Thanks in advance
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 517
Likes: 2
From: Texas
On the 1983 you really don't need to bypass the computer. This was the only year that it did not control the AOD if you have an automatic transmission.
To answer your question, yes, it is possible, but my question is why bother?
To answer your question, yes, it is possible, but my question is why bother?
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
I have an auto tranny and have replaced the carb with a holley 2300. I just have vaccuum hoses and wires everywhere in the engine bay and its a nightmare to try and make sense of it. If I just pull the computer and everything its attached too, can I just run the carb and my (what I think is a duraspark box in the engine bay on the drivers well)
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 517
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Sure...
You need the Duraspark II or aftermarket ignition control module and the correct distributer for your application, and you are good to go. Just my opinion though, you would be better off all OEM.
How did you get the 2300 Holley to adapt to your AOD?
You need the Duraspark II or aftermarket ignition control module and the correct distributer for your application, and you are good to go. Just my opinion though, you would be better off all OEM.
How did you get the 2300 Holley to adapt to your AOD?
Last edited by 82F1507.5; Mar 1, 2007 at 12:58 PM.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 3,836
Likes: 106
From: Martinsburg, WV
If it has an AOD it will have a cable running from the throttle to a lever on the shift linkage. This is called the TV (Throttle Valve) cable and controls shift points by regulating the line pressure in the transmission according to throttle position. All AOD's were mechanically controlled, regardless of F/I or carb. The AOD-E found in later applications is computer controlled and would have an O/D button. If you have a kickdown rod, it is not an AOD, use the transmission ID guide on this page to figure out which one you have.
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=2&Category_Cod e=Ford
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=2&Category_Cod e=Ford
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 517
Likes: 2
From: Texas
Originally Posted by DVM04
The 2300 Holley has a ford automatic kickdown that I have my auto tranny shaft connected too, I am not positive that this truck has an AOD, but I may be wrong. You may know better than I.
The 351W was the largest F-150 engine available in 1983, the only engine available without automatic overdrive. The F-250 and above are a different story.
The transmission type is listed on the driver door jamb sticker as a code.
The 8th digit in the VIN has a letter code for engine size.
E=4.9L in line 6 1V carburetor
F=5.0L V8 2V carburetor
G=5.8L V8 2V carburetor
H=5.8L V8 4V carburetor
Automatic transmission codes:
T=AOD/AOT (14 pan bolts)
K=C6 (17 pan bolts)
Last edited by 82F1507.5; Mar 1, 2007 at 03:43 PM.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Since I have owned the truck for 48 hours, this is where I am:
The engine is a 302, 2 barrel carb and there is no circle around the d on the console so I think its C6. The lever attaches on the kickdown of the carb and runs to the tranny and I dont see any Throttle Valve cables. I am presuming the holley 2300 is not a problem with the c6 tranny (?). The shifting is eratic at times and I will get to that eventually. OVerall the truck idles and runs very nice, but once in drive or reverse idles and shakes to all hell. I had sucking/vaccuum noises from under the dash and crap brakes so I replaced the master cylinder, power booster, calipers and pads. Sucking noise is still there though I can break now. I have bolts in vaccuum hoses under the hood and a bees nest of emmision wires and some going no where. This is the reason I want to remove as much as I can as a starting point.
I will check the bolt pattern on the tranny pan. Thanks for the help
The engine is a 302, 2 barrel carb and there is no circle around the d on the console so I think its C6. The lever attaches on the kickdown of the carb and runs to the tranny and I dont see any Throttle Valve cables. I am presuming the holley 2300 is not a problem with the c6 tranny (?). The shifting is eratic at times and I will get to that eventually. OVerall the truck idles and runs very nice, but once in drive or reverse idles and shakes to all hell. I had sucking/vaccuum noises from under the dash and crap brakes so I replaced the master cylinder, power booster, calipers and pads. Sucking noise is still there though I can break now. I have bolts in vaccuum hoses under the hood and a bees nest of emmision wires and some going no where. This is the reason I want to remove as much as I can as a starting point.
I will check the bolt pattern on the tranny pan. Thanks for the help
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
10 Things Every Truck Owner NEEDS (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 57,004
Likes: 2,748
From: Virginia
Looks like you are halfway there to getting rid of the computer. You need a distributor that has a vacuum line connection on it. If yours doesn't then you have no timing control, because the computer used to do that. It probably doesn't now, or does a poor job because of what you have disconnected already.
You will need a duraspark II box to match your dist. The original box was designed for the original dist that did not have a vacuum connection.
You need to keep the PCV valve and it's hose. It keeps the inside of the engine cleaner, and does no harm to the performance. I would also keep the original aircleaner, the snorkel hose running to the exhaust manifold, and it's vacuum lines. This makes it run better during the cold dreary days in winter, to keep the carb from icing up.
You will need a duraspark II box to match your dist. The original box was designed for the original dist that did not have a vacuum connection.
You need to keep the PCV valve and it's hose. It keeps the inside of the engine cleaner, and does no harm to the performance. I would also keep the original aircleaner, the snorkel hose running to the exhaust manifold, and it's vacuum lines. This makes it run better during the cold dreary days in winter, to keep the carb from icing up.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Thanks for the help. I have foudn the disty and duraspark at partsamerica for 60 and 25 dollars, respectivley. The wiring seems straight forward from teh duraspark II and the disty. I have had multiple 85 mustangs 5.0 and it has the same setup. I think I will pull all the computer and wiring harness first, and then add the distributor and duraspark. Anyone have any pointers? I think the timing being controlled by a computer that is half connected to a carb that is not there is definelty effecting the idle and drive of hte beast.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 57,004
Likes: 2,748
From: Virginia
When it is all said and done, with the engine running on the duraspark II module, measure the voltage at the coil + with the engine running. It should be less than 12 volts while running(something like 9v). If it's high, then you do not have a resistor in the hot wire to the coil, and the duraspark system is designed to have one. You can go to the parts store and get a large white resistor for a Chrysler product and put it inline to the coil + if you find you do not have the resistance wire in your harness.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Thanks for the help, Today I went and bought the following from partsamerica:
Dursapark blue : GP sorenson EL107
Distributor 30-2899
Disty cap adapter (disty to cap): GP sorenson FR110
Rotor: GP sorenson FR107
Cap: Gp sorenson FR131
So I have the whole thing dry fitted and this is weird. The rotor spins freely but doesnt contact the points on the cap. ITs short by 1/8 inch. So either the cap is wrong, the adapter, rotor, or disty....OR 1/8 inch gap is normal.....Any have a thought?
Dursapark blue : GP sorenson EL107
Distributor 30-2899
Disty cap adapter (disty to cap): GP sorenson FR110
Rotor: GP sorenson FR107
Cap: Gp sorenson FR131
So I have the whole thing dry fitted and this is weird. The rotor spins freely but doesnt contact the points on the cap. ITs short by 1/8 inch. So either the cap is wrong, the adapter, rotor, or disty....OR 1/8 inch gap is normal.....Any have a thought?
Last edited by DVM04; Mar 2, 2007 at 11:11 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 60
Likes: 0
Well got the entire computer and all the bees nest out fo the truck. Starting to look much better under the hood. The new distributor and Duraspark are in place. Just a few more questions:
1. Does anyone know color/wire location that I can splice into the oil pressure sensor and water temp gauge. Both were removed with the main computer harness and I want to wire them back.
2. Want to confirm the red/green stripe wire on the fenderwell gets cut and spliced into the + side of the coil.
1. Does anyone know color/wire location that I can splice into the oil pressure sensor and water temp gauge. Both were removed with the main computer harness and I want to wire them back.
2. Want to confirm the red/green stripe wire on the fenderwell gets cut and spliced into the + side of the coil.