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Yes, I did leave the bottom part, but on mine, what I left was only something that looks like two "fingers" of plastic sticking back from the battery box. I wedged the end of the filter in between to avoid the hood, whicih caused a little tilt that you can see in my picture. Even though I used the clamp and re-tightened it hard, I believe that it was a combination of the tilt and potential "twist" in teh flex tube that resulted from me possibly not getting it back in it's original orientation on the turbo intake side.
Also, I have had a couple of other guys in FTE comment that they saw the same problem with their isntallation, and each ended up going to the short piece of 4" exhaust pipe for the transition... other guys have used a short piece of pvc pipe.
I left the full bottom and my filter seems to lay "naturally" without any twisting or pulling. Not much angle. I always run a rough file around the filter neck to rough it up just a little. I also left the original clamp and added another for the length. I do like the looks of your cover. I need one in red though. My filter had over 20k on it and the only reason I changed it was it had gotten a little gray. Still had 20k more before it needed changing.
Mine hasnt come off yet, but I have only had it on for about 12 hours! Anyway I think your comment about roughing up the neck is why you havent had it come off. I am using the factory clamp and got it nice and tight. Ill either rough it up or add a piece of pipe. Thanks for the information
13 oz. coffee can works great for spacer. I single wrapped with duck tape for gun metal gray color. Perfect length. (some cans may need both ends cut to get rid of lip) Carroll
that is a great idea Calli. wish I would have thought of that. heck of a lot cheaper than buying 4" exhaust pipe. Is it the right diameter or did the duct tape make up the difference?
I actually didn't even have to buy my piece of 4" pipe. I called a local custom muffler/exhaust shop and they gave me a piece of scrap that was not only long enough for this 6637 transition, but also long enough to be used for my CCV mod as well with what I had left over.
That is the Intake Air Temp you can just zip tie it near the filter but as far as possible from engine heat as you can. Most people use the master cylinder.
The only sensor you need to worry about is the one with wires to it. You need to twist to remove form box. The wires are not long enough to move far. I tie wrapped mine to the nearest place it would reach, I think it is on the master cylinder. The filter minder is not needed as you will be able to see the filter... although some have installed it in the end of the 6637.
For my 6637 mod I used a piece of pvc connector That was labeled 3". The OD was exactly 4". i got it at home depot. Checked it with ruler tape before I bought it. Worked perfectly. Cut it to about 3 inched long. Used the original clamp and another 4 inch connector.
The only sensor you need to worry about is the one with wires to it. You need to twist to remove form box. The wires are not long enough to move far. I tie wrapped mine to the nearest place it would reach, I think it is on the master cylinder. The filter minder is not needed as you will be able to see the filter... although some have installed it in the end of the 6637.
I would just wrap a plastic bag around that filter minder andziptie it somewhere, Its pretty much useless with that filter plus if you drill a hole in the end of that filter you would be compromising the whole system. Just tie it up out of the way.
Oh my filter minder got tossed with my filter box. What I was referring to was the air intake sensor that was mounted on the side of the filter box. That is what I tied up.
Well you did refer to the filter minder being either removed or also some people have drilled holes in the filter to re-use that filterminder. I was just saying that instead of drilling a hole in the filter just tie it up some where, why compromise the filter if that filter minder is useless anyways.