Thanks to two of the fine users here, I now have a complete set of guages for my F-1. (A three way US/Canada/Australia deal.....ain't forums great)

I am going to repaint the facias in the creme I am using for the engine bay, grill and wheels, and the re-letter the speedo.

So my question is .......what senders can I use to run the original guages off my 351C?.......anyone know the specs.

Fuel guage isn't a problem, I will get a mate in a LPG (propane) shop to test it and then get me the correct sender.

I'm guessing the "battery" guage will still work the same on a 12v system.

That leaves water and oil........what senders have you guys run for these ??

It is GREAt to be down to these sort of details......only a year and a half behind schedule

 

Here is a 6 - 12 volt conversion article. it's been awhile since i read this one so I don't remember how the addressed the Batt. gage. On the F-1's the used the induced current method, all you have to do is unwind the wire and rewind it the other way. (Thats if it was still 6v pos ground.
Now you being downunder poses a question that I don't know thats been addressed, it deals with the Coriellis Effect. When the water goes down the luu (sp) it spins the opposite direction then where these trucks were designed and built. Will that cause stuff to automatically work reverse of here?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/...on_Guide_.html

 

Absolutely.

We have a similar problem with air tools. Imported american ones all spin backwards when we use them down here. The trick is to take the fan belt off the compressor and then re-install it the other way around. That fixes it.

 

That article only covers the 6v to 12v power conversion.

I hadn't even contemplated the - ground vs + ground issues.........

 

In Willards earlier life running a nailhead buick, I ran 12v with the original oil pressure sender (flathead type) and original bulb type water temperature sender all with original gauges. I sized and installed individual small dropping resisters for each gage`. To calculate the value in ohms, I set my 6v/12v battery charger up on 6v and measured the current. Since E=IR, calculate the circuit resistence (R = E/I). Then buy a resister with the same resistence such that by doubling the voltage when you add the resister the current will stay about the same. My gauges read accurately. I will use the same senders fitted into the sbc going in now.

You can run the gages on 12V as others have done without dropping resisters. Since they work on a heating circuit principal, the lifetime on the gages could be shortened.

 

Change the bulbs from 6 - 12V.
The big thing on the switch is the generator/coltage regulator. But your using a diff engine so that doesn't count.
The 6V wiring (If good) will carry more load then the 12V Wire so your good there.

Oh I almost forgot, the real BIGGIE, you have to change from 6V air in the tires to 12V air. If you don't you'll lose half your RPM's.

 

Thanks, guys, for the best laughs of the day

 

I should have probably been more verbose in my original post:

Full rewire with "It's a Snap" harness
12V wipers, heater etc
12V lights, including instrument lights.

so it's just the guages I was concerned about.

Concensus here and over at ozrodders seems to be that using original flathead senders and voltage reg (or resistor pack) is the go.

Still unclear on the "battery" guage though.....

 

I think I saw replacement facias for the original gauges in LMC Trucks

 

If you're using stock gauges you have to use stock senders. Make sure you use a constant voltage regulator (cvr) on the gauges if sending 12V to them. Ford used cvr's up thru the 70's as they kept their gauges at 6V. Junkyard or Parts house can supply one.

On the battery gauge - you should have the one with a couple of loops on the back and the power wire passes thru it. Disconnect the wire, route it backwards thru the gauge and reconnect - IF you're changing to neg earth. Otherwise leave it alone.

 

Another thought on the conversion.

The Tail light on the panel is big enough to accept another light socket if needed.
The front Parking light can be converted to a dual prong socket. Just get the needed two prong socket for the park/turn light, remove the single and install the new socket. make sure you get a good contact, I usually solder, and a good seal.

 

Can someone give me the part numbers of senders for the original guages?

I don't have the original flatty (in fact from new it had a hercus deisel and was later converted to 54 flatty) so can't check the senders it had, at least not without tracking down the PO.

I do have a complete 39 Flatty, and know ere others are.

 

I have a small block (289cu.i.) and have used Flathead senders on the Oil press and water temp guages. Ross was kind enough to send me a sender for the water temp. To get the correct voltage, no matter the resistance, I went with the Runtz solid state voltage regulators on each of the guages. They run about $15 each and you can find them readily on EBay. Obiously the ampmeter doesn't care about voltage. My guages are very accurate with this set up. Hope this helps.