Electrical Hellll? Need everyones input
On the 15th I took my truck too the dealer for an engine oil leak, cvrd under warranty and to have my rear drivers side door actuator replaced, (warrantied under the extended plan)
I picked the truck up the next day. They indicated that the oil leak was coming from the Turbo -o- rings and they fixed it, and the actuator was replaced.
I got it home and discovered that it was still leaking oil. The next morning I start the truck to take it back to the dealer and the dash was dead. Took it back and told them about the oil leak and the new problem.
They call me mid morning and tell me that the -o-rings need to be re-replaced, apparently they were pinched.
Later that afternoon they call me and state the repair on the turbo is done and the guys out test driving it. The dead dash is another issue. He says there is a relay that is part of the dash cluster that has gone out. They can't fix it, so the whole cluster has too be sent out someplace to be repaired.
They had the truck through the weekend and I call them Monday afternoon to find out what is going on.
My Dash is back together, new instrument cluster, but the truck is still leaking oil. They think it’s the injector pump, so they have ordered a new one.
They have the truck for another day. I call them Tuesday afternoon and the report I get is, Leaks gone, dash console is good, but we found another problem, your alternator is bad. Were going to replace that this afternoon.
Hang up with them. 10 minutes later they call me back, ahhh your batteries are dead and the guys are telling me they won't hold a charge.
I tell them to fix the alternator and all replace the batteries.
The next day they call me and says "I have good news and Bad news"
Good, it doesn't leak oil anymore. Bad, we need it back here in a couple of days. The new dash cluster is showing a door-ajar light that we can't get to shut off. We checked all the door relays and the only thing we can attribute it to is a faulty dash console.
I pick the truck up the next day, I get back to my house pull the key out of the ignition and there's no aux. power too anything inside the cab. The standard is a 15 minute power supply until you open the door. Now the minute you turn the key to off, no power.
Brought it back too them the next day, for the electrical plus they were going to put in the new dash cluster.
They tell me that when they pull the codes, one set says the system is seeing two doors open, (when there not) and some other codes there pulling is telling them everything is working fine.
They call me Friday, last week, everything is done. I pick it up stop by my house and go to get my daughter at school and the dash is dead again, dome lites don't work, windows won't go up and down, etc... Called the dealer from the truck and told them nothing was working.
Drove the truck over the weekend and the problems were intermittent. Replaced the batteries.
Had to go away on Monday for Military business. However brought it back too them on Tuesday Morning.
They were able to duplicate the problem. However now there saying it’s a bad smart junction box and that they are going to replace it.
They replace this box and the problem is still there. It is intermittent. Sometimes you go in the truck and everthing works and other times its dead for a period of time and then all of a sudden starts working.
I asked them about the GEM unit and they told me that this model year they did not have one it was replaced by the Smart Junction Box, (which they replaced) I asked them about the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) located on the fire wall, they stated that this unit checks out.
The latest is they want to start replacing electrical connections at the Smart Junction Box.
They also stated that they are in contact with Ford to try and resolve the problem, as this one has them stumped.
So I appeal to anyone and all to put your two cents in, because as the dealer said, were not opposed to input because sometimes someone will have the simplest solution that we didn't know about.
I would not let a dealer throw "my" money at parts without actually diagnosing to LOOK for the leak. How does someone who works on these engines EVERY DAY fail to replace an o-ring on the turbocharger pedestal the proper way? What kind of mechanic says that the Injector pump is leaking oil on your truck? In fact he probably means the High Pressure Oil Pump, but if it is a "certified" technican calling that an Injector Pump, i would take back as much as you can from that dealer, and run, run fast and far away from that place and never go back. Even if you have to drive a little bit, go to another dealer. That is a prime example of a typical Stealership just throwing random parts at problems, hoping they fix it, all the while making your wallet much thinner.
I would not let a dealer throw "my" money at parts without actually diagnosing to LOOK for the leak. How does someone who works on these engines EVERY DAY fail to replace an o-ring on the turbocharger pedestal the proper way? What kind of mechanic says that the Injector pump is leaking oil on your truck? In fact he probably means the High Pressure Oil Pump, but if it is a "certified" technican calling that an Injector Pump, i would take back as much as you can from that dealer, and run, run fast and far away from that place and never go back. Even if you have to drive a little bit, go to another dealer. That is a prime example of a typical Stealership just throwing random parts at problems, hoping they fix it, all the while making your wallet much thinner.

Just for grins and giggles have they checked the GPR for a constant on circuit?
have the reflashed the PCM?
Did they replace the dash module before replacing the alternator? if so could the Mech. have made a boo-boo and left the batt cables hooked up when he replaced the alternator and possibly grounded it. Could there be any chafing of the high voltage engine harness that may be grounding and burning up the dash module?
Any aftermarket stereo equip, or winch, or off road lights that may be grounded?
of course all the above is just a pure guess that you and the SA have probably thought about but what the hay, I'm just bouncin the ball against the wall.
GOOD LUCK KEEP US POSTED
Just for grins and giggles have they checked the GPR for a constant on circuit?
have the reflashed the PCM?
Did they replace the dash module before replacing the alternator? if so could the Mech. have made a boo-boo and left the batt cables hooked up when he replaced the alternator and possibly grounded it. Could there be any chafing of the high voltage engine harness that may be grounding and burning up the dash module?
Any aftermarket stereo equip, or winch, or off road lights that may be grounded?
of course all the above is just a pure guess that you and the SA have probably thought about but what the hay, I'm just bouncin the ball against the wall.
GOOD LUCK KEEP US POSTED
No aftermarket products.
GPR: I don't know what this is?]
PCM has not been reflashed, but a good suggestion.
High voltage harness is another good idea since those guys have pulled the turbo mount to replace the o-rings twice, not to mention other items to stop the oil leak.
I was leaning on the screw up with the alternator, but this problem developed after they replaced a door actuator, and actually has seemed to have gotten worse. Could be that they pulled the batteries or one battery doing the actuator and grounded out a wire.
I went through some notes of mine and we had a problem back in April of last year where everthing was dead. Turns out it was two fuses that were blown. One was the instrument cluster and the other was an unmarked fuse. Its not identified anywhere in the manual. All have to call them on this. Thanks for the input.
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The reason I mentioned this is: when I changed my alt. although I discontected both batts, somehow during my manuvering around the front of the truck the batt cables ended up toudhing the post and when I put the hot wire to the alt. I missed and it touched the housing and arced big time. It actually melted two of my fuses for some aftermarket things, and blew a GPR
replaced door actuator, HMM, could they have pinched a wire?
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Now that I think of it when my VSS went out dash quit working also, and like you said no SES.....



