Brake question - '92 Ranger
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Brake question - '92 Ranger
Hi.
I'm having a stopping problem on my '92 2wd short wheelbase Ranger.
I carry a lot of wieght (overloaded really) and today when I tried to make a quick stop I slid forward for about 10 feet. Not good obviously.
Luckily no one was in front of me.
I have replaced both front and rear brakes and calipers myself many times.
My question is this: Does this sound more like the front discs failing or the rear shoes?
The reason that I ask is that I have to do the work myself tomorrow and would like to jack up the most likely place to start first.
All help appreciated.
Joey
I'm having a stopping problem on my '92 2wd short wheelbase Ranger.
I carry a lot of wieght (overloaded really) and today when I tried to make a quick stop I slid forward for about 10 feet. Not good obviously.
Luckily no one was in front of me.
I have replaced both front and rear brakes and calipers myself many times.
My question is this: Does this sound more like the front discs failing or the rear shoes?
The reason that I ask is that I have to do the work myself tomorrow and would like to jack up the most likely place to start first.
All help appreciated.
Joey
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Why not upgrade trucks if you're overloading the Ranger?
Did the ABS light activate when you slammed the brakes on? It could be an ABS problem...but depending on how fast you were going, 10 feet may just have been the time it takes the RABS to catch up when you slam the brakes on.
Did the ABS light activate when you slammed the brakes on? It could be an ABS problem...but depending on how fast you were going, 10 feet may just have been the time it takes the RABS to catch up when you slam the brakes on.
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Originally Posted by RangerPilot
Why not upgrade trucks if you're overloading the Ranger?
Did the ABS light activate when you slammed the brakes on? It could be an ABS problem...but depending on how fast you were going, 10 feet may just have been the time it takes the RABS to catch up when you slam the brakes on.
Did the ABS light activate when you slammed the brakes on? It could be an ABS problem...but depending on how fast you were going, 10 feet may just have been the time it takes the RABS to catch up when you slam the brakes on.
Because that's a LITTLE more expensive than fixing the brakes.
No, ABS light did not come on.
It was definately part of the brake function not working.
I'm going to start with the front.
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From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
Money v. stupidity. Take your pick.
Sounds like neither the front discs or rear drums failing. It merely sounds like you over-braked. If you overload the Ranger as you said you do, the front end might ride lighter than the back end, and with 80% of the braking coming from the front it, it'd be quite easy to lock the fronts up briefly. It'd be virtually impossible for you to lock up the rears with RABS and all the weight in the back.
I believe it's the fronts (which aren't ABS equipped) working perfectly as designed. They weren't designed for the load in the back if it's truly "overloaded".
Sounds like neither the front discs or rear drums failing. It merely sounds like you over-braked. If you overload the Ranger as you said you do, the front end might ride lighter than the back end, and with 80% of the braking coming from the front it, it'd be quite easy to lock the fronts up briefly. It'd be virtually impossible for you to lock up the rears with RABS and all the weight in the back.
I believe it's the fronts (which aren't ABS equipped) working perfectly as designed. They weren't designed for the load in the back if it's truly "overloaded".
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Here's the latest:
Over the weekend I jacked up the front end and inspected the front brakes.
As I suspected, the discs were worn and the rotors were grooved.....especially the passenger side which was worn down past the rivets.
I installed new pads and replaced the passenger side rotor and had the driver side turned (it still had enough on it).
Bled the sytem and then today jacked up the rear.
I removed both rear drums and inspected. Shoes were OK. I adjusted rear brakes and went for a test drive.
STILL having the same problem.
I'm suspecting now that it's a ABS failure.
Also, I took all the payload out of the truck....so it's not weight related.
Here again are the symptoms:
Step on the brake pedal for a quick stop...like if someone stepped out in front of you.....the truck skids forward before it finally stops.
This is at a speed of maybe 30 mph.
I had this truck for eight years and never had this problem before......so I know how it should stop.
Any CONSTRUCTIVE help will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
Over the weekend I jacked up the front end and inspected the front brakes.
As I suspected, the discs were worn and the rotors were grooved.....especially the passenger side which was worn down past the rivets.
I installed new pads and replaced the passenger side rotor and had the driver side turned (it still had enough on it).
Bled the sytem and then today jacked up the rear.
I removed both rear drums and inspected. Shoes were OK. I adjusted rear brakes and went for a test drive.
STILL having the same problem.
I'm suspecting now that it's a ABS failure.
Also, I took all the payload out of the truck....so it's not weight related.
Here again are the symptoms:
Step on the brake pedal for a quick stop...like if someone stepped out in front of you.....the truck skids forward before it finally stops.
This is at a speed of maybe 30 mph.
I had this truck for eight years and never had this problem before......so I know how it should stop.
Any CONSTRUCTIVE help will be appreciated.
Thanks,
Joe
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You need to determine if this is a front or rear brake lockup. Maybe have someone watch you brake and they can tell you which wheel is locking up.
If it's in the fronts, make sure the slide pins aren't all rusted and are lubed up properly, and not installed upside down. Or just go buy a new set.. what are they.. ten bucks?
If the rears are locking up, pull the boots back from the ends of the wheel cylinders and look for fluid. Sometimes a slight leak can get absorbed into the shoes and cause them to grab more than they should. Same thing can happen with glazed drums, or hardened brake linings (old, but not worn), or weak rear brake hardware (springs).
Also take a close look at the rear axle seals and make sure they aren't leaking either. If all this looks good, you may want to consider a new master cylinder. These are relatively cheap on these older rangers.. just make sure you bench bleed it real good before installation, and I would also recommend bleeding each wheel until you get nice, clean fluid coming out at all four corners.
Good luck
If it's in the fronts, make sure the slide pins aren't all rusted and are lubed up properly, and not installed upside down. Or just go buy a new set.. what are they.. ten bucks?
If the rears are locking up, pull the boots back from the ends of the wheel cylinders and look for fluid. Sometimes a slight leak can get absorbed into the shoes and cause them to grab more than they should. Same thing can happen with glazed drums, or hardened brake linings (old, but not worn), or weak rear brake hardware (springs).
Also take a close look at the rear axle seals and make sure they aren't leaking either. If all this looks good, you may want to consider a new master cylinder. These are relatively cheap on these older rangers.. just make sure you bench bleed it real good before installation, and I would also recommend bleeding each wheel until you get nice, clean fluid coming out at all four corners.
Good luck
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Thanks.
I did replace the front slide pins and lubricated the new ones when I changed the pads.
I'LL try your other suggestions.
Joe
I did replace the front slide pins and lubricated the new ones when I changed the pads.
I'LL try your other suggestions.
Joe
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From: ut
A long shot...but something that happened to me...After I bought my 92 Explorer (same setup as my Ranger) I wanted to bleed and flush the brake fluid because my brakes felt funny. When I went to the rear brakes to bleed and flush them, I couldn't get anything to come out of the bleeders, even with someone pushing on the pedal! The fluid was very contaminated. I took the RABS valve apart and found it full of rust and everything was frozen. Apparantly all my braking action was only on the fronts, and that may explain why your front pads are shot and the rears are still in good shape.
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OK. Here's the latest.
Took it back to the mechanic yesterday. He pulled the front calipers, disassembled them and showed me the rusted and pitted insides.
Replaced them both (which I could have easily done myself when I changed the pads and rotors......)
But I figured just get it over with........
Drove off the lot, hit the brakes, SAME damn problem!
Brought it back again today and they found lots of air around the RABS valve.
Bled the entire system and finally it works.
Bottom line: New pads, rotors, calipers......although I needed them, that wasn't the cause. Not enough fluid getting to the rear brakes was.
Live and learn.
Joe
<!-- / message -->
Took it back to the mechanic yesterday. He pulled the front calipers, disassembled them and showed me the rusted and pitted insides.
Replaced them both (which I could have easily done myself when I changed the pads and rotors......)
But I figured just get it over with........
Drove off the lot, hit the brakes, SAME damn problem!
Brought it back again today and they found lots of air around the RABS valve.
Bled the entire system and finally it works.
Bottom line: New pads, rotors, calipers......although I needed them, that wasn't the cause. Not enough fluid getting to the rear brakes was.
Live and learn.
Joe
<!-- / message -->
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