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Like this??? Bwa hahahaha, guess I'm gonna die soon huh?
Shouldnt the factory blocks with the bump stop tabs be the ones on top? With the current set-up, the rear of the truck would have to travel farther (take more payload) before the factory overload system kicks in. Not good.
if the bump stops were the top block in that setup then if you ever did load the truck up to the bump stops they would get torqued downward by the frame and break the aftermarket blocks.
that picture shows broken blocks which caused the axle to turn and break the driveshaft along with the shocks and i believe the brake lines were affected too.
That's a pretty nasty pic.... I've never heard of anyone breaking their blocks around here... most guys I know use bigger spring packs for the rear but I prefer the stacking the blocks to the sky method. Seeing as how my V-10 only makes what like 36.4 ft-lbs. of torque, I really have nothing to worry about anyways??? right??? I do have a friend who snapped his driveshaft because he twisted the axle with a 8" spring pack. Anyways, I believe it's all about preference. It's each mans truck.... I want blocks on mine, and if it breaks... it breaks.
hmm, i have stacked blocks as well. i have superlift springs and 2 blocks (stock and aftermarket). i have never had a problem but i didnt really like the idea of it at the time. i told the shop that installed them that i would need new blocks so my truck wouldnt be lower in the rear, BUT instead of puting on 1 whole new block, they left the stock one and then put on another one. i thought it might not be good, but then i thought they must know what they are doing ( i asked - they said it was fine). the truck drives well, no shuddering etc - so i am tempted to leave it instead of replaceing them and maybe the truck driving worse. but this thread certainly has me thinking.
I am laughing...and it's like watching a train wreck, but I can't stop. The three stooges, a looney toons character...but in real life? Does learning from a mistake make it any different? It's wrong, don't hurt yourself or somebody else finding out.
I guess it comes down to if you really wheel the truck or not....with the kind of wheeling i do....they wont last enless you have a ladder bar, period....or you will just keep throwing driveshafts and yokes
if you pull your rear tires up to a decent sized ledge on a steep trail etc etc.... when you gas it and the tires grab and you got 6" of block...something will break, if not the first time it wont take long
its not the rear blocks that are a huge problem...its the axle wrap and resulting carnage from it
like i said, it depends on how you use your truck
if its stays on the street and you do mud/light trails, you will probably be fine....just be replacing u joints every now and then
I used to do a lot of trail/rut riding, but now I stick to the mud and the street driving.... So far it has been flawless, I will probably add a ladder bar sooner or later anyways... The worst I do now is two 8-12k lbs. with the occasional 14-15k lonnnngggg distances....anyways, if I die in a horrible fiery truck crash, I'll let you guys know.
Interesting reads here. I have stacked blocks, no damage AT ALL has resulted from this procedure. I use my truck offroading and put it through some major stress and have yet had any problems with it. I have the diesel with 100hp chip and so far so good. I do agree that it is not normal operating procedures by doing this but it has not caused any issues. I just wanted to throw in my 2 cents since I am living proof that it works. Later all.
stacked blocks and no axle wrap? you are putting a bunch of torque to the rear wheels.... maybe it has something to do with the u-bolt torque after all
...Those u-bolts are torqued at 200 ft-lbs. per nut, resulting in roughly 800 ft-lbs. of pressure per axle side (1600 ft-lbs. total)....
That's not quite how it works. You forgot to multiply the torque by the thread pitch of the u-bolt. If there were only 1600 lbs of pressure holding the axle on a 6klb+ truck, you'd have a serious problem.