5.4 Spark Plug Removal problems
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 33
Likes: 0
I have a 2004 with 21,000 miles and am contemplating doing this plug change.
How much effort is too much when removing the plugs so you know to let them soak more. If I heard some squealing it would scare me to death.
Also are the new plugs different?
How much effort is too much when removing the plugs so you know to let them soak more. If I heard some squealing it would scare me to death.
Also are the new plugs different?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 3
From: Magnolia, TX
Originally Posted by Cvinch
I have a 2004 with 21,000 miles and am contemplating doing this plug change.
How much effort is too much when removing the plugs so you know to let them soak more. If I heard some squealing it would scare me to death.
Also are the new plugs different?
How much effort is too much when removing the plugs so you know to let them soak more. If I heard some squealing it would scare me to death.
Also are the new plugs different?
I didn't see any *visual* differences in the new plugs, but it's possible that the plating is different.
I promise you - you WILL hear squealing/squeaking as you unthread these plugs. They all do. You have pretty good chance, IMO, of getting these plugs out with no issues if you take your time.
Pull em sometime between 25 & 30K and you'll be good.
CMOS
New User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 15
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Originally Posted by CMOS
ohboy,
Pics still show up above for me and others I've talked to - ?
My truck was built in 02/04.
On cranking the engine before installing the plugs - Maybe I'm wrong but my thoughts on that are that I did what I did to circulate and distribute any lube in the cylinders (rather than pool in one area), as I don't believe the lube would actually be "expelled" just by cranking. I also fear that cranking the engine with the plugs out could "suck" in debris into the cylinder that was in the plug well of the head (even though I did blow it out with compressed air).
I have no doubt that your input was very helpful and a big part of me doing this sucessfully with no surprises. Thanks for all your info.
Guess I'll be doing this about every 30-35K now.
CMOS
Pics still show up above for me and others I've talked to - ?
My truck was built in 02/04.
On cranking the engine before installing the plugs - Maybe I'm wrong but my thoughts on that are that I did what I did to circulate and distribute any lube in the cylinders (rather than pool in one area), as I don't believe the lube would actually be "expelled" just by cranking. I also fear that cranking the engine with the plugs out could "suck" in debris into the cylinder that was in the plug well of the head (even though I did blow it out with compressed air).
I have no doubt that your input was very helpful and a big part of me doing this sucessfully with no surprises. Thanks for all your info.
Guess I'll be doing this about every 30-35K now.
CMOS
Glad to see your plugs came out...they looked just like mine.
Did you install new plugs? If so where did you get them? How much $$?
thanks
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by CMOS
My truck was built in 02/04.
CMOS
CMOS
It should give others hope that taking care to replace them should work.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 3
From: Magnolia, TX
Jeffrey,
Yes, I did put in new plugs. The way I see it, if I'm going to spend 3+ hours of labor, that truck's gettin' new plugs. I bought them from 1stfordparts.com for about $8 bucks a pieces. Morotcraft #SP-462.
Rickey,
Yes, it's a 2004 with 32K on the plugs. Note that the plugs were really cleaner than they look in the pic. When removing them from the plugs well in the head, they got coated with the dark BP Blaster liquid so it sort of stained them a bit.
CMOS
Yes, I did put in new plugs. The way I see it, if I'm going to spend 3+ hours of labor, that truck's gettin' new plugs. I bought them from 1stfordparts.com for about $8 bucks a pieces. Morotcraft #SP-462.
Rickey,
Yes, it's a 2004 with 32K on the plugs. Note that the plugs were really cleaner than they look in the pic. When removing them from the plugs well in the head, they got coated with the dark BP Blaster liquid so it sort of stained them a bit.
CMOS
New User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
CMOS...I'm with you, I wonder if the replacement plugs have any design changes from the installed plugs?
The PB Blaster does the trick and dissolves the carbon doesn't it...the longer you wait the better. Also I noticed the the anti-sieze only needs to be an extremely thin coat because most of it gets stripped back when the plug is installed. I coated one and installed in the head then removed to see what it looked like...because the fit is so tight most of it "scraped" off.
The PB Blaster does the trick and dissolves the carbon doesn't it...the longer you wait the better. Also I noticed the the anti-sieze only needs to be an extremely thin coat because most of it gets stripped back when the plug is installed. I coated one and installed in the head then removed to see what it looked like...because the fit is so tight most of it "scraped" off.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 392
Likes: 2
CMOS, the pictures are showing up now. It must have been on my end.
The reason you crank the engine over before putting the plugs in is to get rid of the oil so it won't hydro lock the engine. There shouldn't be anything around the holes that could be sucked in. You need to blow out the holes and surrounding valve cover area before removing the plugs to keep dirt from getting in. These engines collect dirt in this area.
PB Blaster works but the Aero Kroil is the best, it's just not easily available. And yes waiting longer for it to soak is better.
CMOS the SP-462 plugs you used what was the number on the plug PZT-2FE like the ones in your picture?
We don't use them anymore, we use PZT-1
The reason you crank the engine over before putting the plugs in is to get rid of the oil so it won't hydro lock the engine. There shouldn't be anything around the holes that could be sucked in. You need to blow out the holes and surrounding valve cover area before removing the plugs to keep dirt from getting in. These engines collect dirt in this area.
PB Blaster works but the Aero Kroil is the best, it's just not easily available. And yes waiting longer for it to soak is better.
CMOS the SP-462 plugs you used what was the number on the plug PZT-2FE like the ones in your picture?
We don't use them anymore, we use PZT-1
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 3
From: Magnolia, TX
Originally Posted by ohboy44
CMOS, the pictures are showing up now. It must have been on my end.
The reason you crank the engine over before putting the plugs in is to get rid of the oil so it won't hydro lock the engine. There shouldn't be anything around the holes that could be sucked in. You need to blow out the holes and surrounding valve cover area before removing the plugs to keep dirt from getting in. These engines collect dirt in this area.
PB Blaster works but the Aero Kroil is the best, it's just not easily available. And yes waiting longer for it to soak is better.
CMOS the SP-462 plugs you used what was the number on the plug PZT-2FE like the ones in your picture?
We don't use them anymore, we use PZT-1
The reason you crank the engine over before putting the plugs in is to get rid of the oil so it won't hydro lock the engine. There shouldn't be anything around the holes that could be sucked in. You need to blow out the holes and surrounding valve cover area before removing the plugs to keep dirt from getting in. These engines collect dirt in this area.
PB Blaster works but the Aero Kroil is the best, it's just not easily available. And yes waiting longer for it to soak is better.
CMOS the SP-462 plugs you used what was the number on the plug PZT-2FE like the ones in your picture?
We don't use them anymore, we use PZT-1
The new plugs I used were the PZ-1FF type.
CMOS
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Senior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 146
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From: Brandon, MS
Ready!
CMOS - thanks for the "idiot proof" explanation.
Guys, I've put this project off long enough. I planned on doing it twice recently and just chickened out. My '04 just hit 60,000. One of the posting gurus mentioned the other day that there will be worse carbon buildup/deposits on the ground shield of the plugs if you tow. I occasionally tow a travel trailer or pontoon boat so I'm a little distressed!
Fuel mileage has dropped about 1-2mpg so I think changing these "100,000 mile" plugs is the logical next step.
Thanks.
Guys, I've put this project off long enough. I planned on doing it twice recently and just chickened out. My '04 just hit 60,000. One of the posting gurus mentioned the other day that there will be worse carbon buildup/deposits on the ground shield of the plugs if you tow. I occasionally tow a travel trailer or pontoon boat so I'm a little distressed!
Fuel mileage has dropped about 1-2mpg so I think changing these "100,000 mile" plugs is the logical next step.
Thanks.
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 569
Likes: 0
Thats good man! You must be feel big REFLEIF! LOL!
I removed all 8 plugs at 26K it doesnt look too bad too. i just cleaned it then put it back in. I m planning to change the plugs at 50K with new plugs.
I didnt use PB spray, i just started it up and let engine turned to a bit warm then turn it off, use ratching back and forth easily until it break loose. yes it made a scary sounds LOL!
YEah i used powerful air compressor to blow all dirt out of holes and engine area..
Later
YOMAN!
I removed all 8 plugs at 26K it doesnt look too bad too. i just cleaned it then put it back in. I m planning to change the plugs at 50K with new plugs.
I didnt use PB spray, i just started it up and let engine turned to a bit warm then turn it off, use ratching back and forth easily until it break loose. yes it made a scary sounds LOL!
YEah i used powerful air compressor to blow all dirt out of holes and engine area..
Later
YOMAN!
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