5.4 Spark Plug Removal problems
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Freshman User
Joined: May 2004
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5.4 Spark Plug Removal problems
In the past couple of weeks there was a thread going regarding plug removal problems. A link was given https://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/fulltext/show_article.php?tsb=06-5-9 that showed the actual Ford TSB regarding the problem. The link is no longer working. Can anyone tell me where I might agaln access the bulletin? Thanks
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 692
Likes: 1
From: Saratoga USA
I cannot believe how complicated Ford made a formerly simple service action of removing a spark plug. Not one of their better ideas. You'd never have these issues with a 302 or 351. Heck, it even makes removing plugs in my 2V 5.4 look easy.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,479
Likes: 4
Well it's basically due to the newly designed aluminum 3V heads that require a long reach plug! Supposedly the plugs past 2004 have been redesigned to alleviate this! Time will tell. The 302 and 351 were cast iron heads with 2V and not OHC and did not have plugs located between the valves.
Last edited by KevinM; Jan 10, 2007 at 10:44 AM.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,713
Likes: 2
From: In my House
I think Ford shoud have put Iron Heads on their Triton motors. I know these aluminum heads are a lot lighter, but there killin us with just a simple spark plug change. These new plugs look like a dam torpedo 
Senior User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 466
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Let us know how it goes for you. Take pictures if you can. I plan on doing my plugs in the Spring. I now of 60K on mine.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 361
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From: Lexington,SC
I have 22K on mine now.I plan to pull them at 25K to inspect them & add anti-sieze to the electrode shield.
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Brett Foote
Elder User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 611
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Originally Posted by KevinM
Change them out, the new plugs were redesigned. Since yours is a 2005, you may have the newer plugs.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 3
From: Magnolia, TX
UPDATE: Plugs done!
UPDATE: 1-13-07
All done guys. All plugs came out with any breaking. PICS below.
Here's what I did:
Pull PCM and PCM bracket out of the way to get to #3 & #4. After I pulled the COP's off I immediately sprayed the plug wells with the BP Blaster before begining to loosen the plugs. I loosened all 8 plugs about 1/8-1/4 turn then let them sit for a little over an hour. THEN (with the plug wells still well lubed with the BP Blaster) I loosened the plugs about a half a turn, then let all sit for another 30 minutes. After that they all came out spueaking but they did some out.
They looked better than I expected. Getting the new plugs in was VERY easy. All 8 plugs spun in by hand until they bottomed out, at which point I finished up with about 1/2 turn with the torque wrench (25ft/lbs).
Re-installed the COP's - unconnected to their harness, then spun the engine a few revolutions to mix up any lube oil that may have gotten in the cylinders. Connected the COP's to the harness then fired her up. Started immediatley.
Man, do I feel better.
The special spark plug socket from SK for these plugs helped quite a but when inserting the new plugs - they stay IN the socket while you hand thread.
Here are some pics:
CMOS
All done guys. All plugs came out with any breaking. PICS below.
Here's what I did:
Pull PCM and PCM bracket out of the way to get to #3 & #4. After I pulled the COP's off I immediately sprayed the plug wells with the BP Blaster before begining to loosen the plugs. I loosened all 8 plugs about 1/8-1/4 turn then let them sit for a little over an hour. THEN (with the plug wells still well lubed with the BP Blaster) I loosened the plugs about a half a turn, then let all sit for another 30 minutes. After that they all came out spueaking but they did some out.
They looked better than I expected. Getting the new plugs in was VERY easy. All 8 plugs spun in by hand until they bottomed out, at which point I finished up with about 1/2 turn with the torque wrench (25ft/lbs).
Re-installed the COP's - unconnected to their harness, then spun the engine a few revolutions to mix up any lube oil that may have gotten in the cylinders. Connected the COP's to the harness then fired her up. Started immediatley.
Man, do I feel better.
The special spark plug socket from SK for these plugs helped quite a but when inserting the new plugs - they stay IN the socket while you hand thread.
Here are some pics:
CMOS
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 392
Likes: 2
Your pictures are red X but I know what they look like.
Glad to hear you where successful.
Noise is a good thing to hear when pulling these plugs, it means they didn't break.
By the way next time crank the engine over before you put the plugs in so it will expel the extra oil.
One more thing, when was your truck built?
Glad to hear you where successful.
Noise is a good thing to hear when pulling these plugs, it means they didn't break.
By the way next time crank the engine over before you put the plugs in so it will expel the extra oil.
One more thing, when was your truck built?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,055
Likes: 3
From: Magnolia, TX
Originally Posted by ohboy44
Your pictures are red X but I know what they look like.
Glad to hear you where successful.
Noise is a good thing to hear when pulling these plugs, it means they didn't break.
By the way next time crank the engine over before you put the plugs in so it will expel the extra oil.
One more thing, when was your truck built?
Glad to hear you where successful.
Noise is a good thing to hear when pulling these plugs, it means they didn't break.
By the way next time crank the engine over before you put the plugs in so it will expel the extra oil.
One more thing, when was your truck built?
ohboy,
Pics still show up above for me and others I've talked to - ?
My truck was built in 02/04.
On cranking the engine before installing the plugs - Maybe I'm wrong but my thoughts on that are that I did what I did to circulate and distribute any lube in the cylinders (rather than pool in one area), as I don't believe the lube would actually be "expelled" just by cranking. I also fear that cranking the engine with the plugs out could "suck" in debris into the cylinder that was in the plug well of the head (even though I did blow it out with compressed air).
I have no doubt that your input was very helpful and a big part of me doing this sucessfully with no surprises. Thanks for all your info.
Guess I'll be doing this about every 30-35K now.
CMOS
Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 1,622
Likes: 0
From: nevada
Just acquired an '05 F150 4WD with 3500m on it. Yes that is the real mileage! I dont expect to have to change plugs any time soon, but this thread was an eye opener. I'll bet this idea came from the same guy that decided that power steering wouldnt be an option on the '72 4WD I also own. (Gallery). But now it has PS. I have always bought a brand name gas for my vehicles, (not the cut rate stuff), and never had a prob with plugs. Just recently changed plugs on my '97 Jeep Laredo, and after 25,000m, they looked like new. A few yrs ago I read an article that did extensive testing on dif gas, and yes, there is a diff on how clean they burn. The marine mech that did my outboard rebuild told me the same thing. Also a mechanic that has changed over 1K cat converters told me he could tell me the brand of gas i burn just by cutting one open. Nuff for me!