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Kris, I cranked it up slowly all the way from 0. When the valve released at around 23# the gauge dropped about half a pound and then recovered and climbed with the supplied pressure all the way to 30.
Sean not a boot leak but a leak at the BRV+ itself.
good question. maybe tomorrow i should put some hose clamps on it like you did.
The WW moves the point at which surge occures but does not cure it. The only cure is and ATS ported housing or aftermarket turbo. ITP Diesel has the housings.
Well here is my unsolicited solicited response to this. Move the boost input reading away from the BRV area. Yes, they will both get it from the manifold, but an IAT plug fitting will likely go a long way to eliminating this bouncing gauge situation as the MAP sensor will be on its own line. JMO.
Well here is my unsolicited solicited response to this. Move the boost input reading away from the BRV area. Yes, they will both get it from the manifold, but an IAT plug fitting will likely go a long way to eliminating this bouncing gauge situation as the MAP sensor will be on its own line. JMO.
that is a good idea. i will do that first and see what happens.
when my truck gets around 2800-3200rpms it feels like it is falling on its face. would that be a cause of surge?
The BVR+ has two taps in it one on intake side pre relief and one on MAP side
i have this as well..about a month ago i got an over boost code twice..something i didnt see befor..ive pulled 30lb boost a few times..i pulled the ring on top and sprayed some pb blast in there and i havent seen the over boost yet...maybe it is sticking on you..when you get the relief valve the instuctions will tell you to spray this once a month with wd-40..i may be way off on this but its worth a shot....
i have this as well..about a month ago i got an over boost code twice..something i didnt see befor..ive pulled 30lb boost a few times..i pulled the ring on top and sprayed some pb blast in there and i havent seen the over boost yet...maybe it is sticking on you..when you get the relief valve the instuctions will tell you to spray this once a month with wd-40..i may be way off on this but its worth a shot....
What did you guys that have this see in it that made it look more appealing to you opposed to getting a regulator and a MAP tee or an AIH boost tap?
well i just got back from making a bunch of passes with my truck.
1- ran truck the way it is w/o clamps(see pic above) i retightened the crap out of all the boost clamps. gauge bounces +/- 1.5lbs.
2- just added clamps to map hose like amiller93, moves the same.
3- removed the BRV and put in a T. gauge moved a lot less, +/- .5lbs. i think at that psi on the T (not BRV) it leaks between the rubber hose that the boost gauge line goes into.
i noticed that the gauge is smooth up to 20lbs and then it starts to shake.
so in conclusion i think i need to drill and tap the AIH plug and get my boost readings from that. i dont think i have any surge, i think the noises that i hear is just the sound of the engine reving up.
so in conclusion i think i need to drill and tap the AIH plug and get my boost readings from that. i dont think i have any surge, i think the noises that i hear is just the sound of the engine reving up.
If you have any reason to have the Y-pipe on the bench, it's a lot easier to just drill and tap the aluminum manifold just below the AIH plug.
You can see the white nylon boost line coming out of my Y-pipe.
My boost guage NEVER bounces. Even if I get it spoolin' so hard that the turbo is stalling.
today i talked to bob at dieselsite and he thinks that with the ww and the bigger housing the stock tune is not supplying enough to keep the the turbo spooled. he described it better than i am and it made sense to me. because the gauge is smooth until about 20-21lbs and then it starts to shake. so i guess we will see what happens when i install the dptuner. does this sound like a valid argument?
I don't claim to be an expert at turbo design, but I would be surprised at a stock tune causing a bouncing needle at boost. If anything it would just yield some low boost numbers - well within the compressor wheel's ability to keep up.