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Do you have a Dual relief valve, or a BRV+ (dieselsite) relief valve that has the boost gauge port fitting in it? I noticed that when my DRV activated, it would make the needle jump around, and it wasn't compressor surge.
yah i have the BRV+ and the gauge is taped into it. by the way today i finished the turbine install. took me so long because i couldnt find a deep 12pt 5/16'' socket or a 1/4''npt in this town to save my life. i will post some pics soon. but thanks for the help strokinit.
Either deal with the jumpy gauge, or plug the boost port, and move the BRV closer to the MAP sensor, and put a piece of hose between the gauge and the boost tap, or install a regulator.
With the BRV+ if you are tapped into the intake side you should see a constatnt pressure the Turbo is producing unless you are getting surge. If you tapped into the MAP side you will see the boost the MAP is seeing and it could bounce if is is "Blowing Off"
With the BRV+ if you are tapped into the intake side you should see a constatnt pressure the Turbo is producing unless you are getting surge. If you tapped into the MAP side you will see the boost the MAP is seeing and it could bounce if is is "Blowing Off"
i tapped it into the side that will read what the real boost is, not the side that allows boost to blead off. currently my truck has no performance program in it because i am waiting for my DPtuner. so it is basically stock and it makes about 20lbs of boost. how do i get rid of surge?
No the problem is that the boost relief is right beside the boost gauge. There is not much volume at all in that small hose. When it cracks open, alot of the pressure inside that hose goes out of the valve, and until the engine can push the air back in that small hole, it will make the needle fall. It will then go back up, where it cracks again and it dumps gauge pressure again. The way to fix it is move the valve farther away where it has less of an influence on the boost gauge. Or, make the boost gauge tube longer, but again less responsive. Or do it the right way and get a Overboost regulator.
No the problem is that the boost relief is right beside the boost gauge. There is not much volume at all in that small hose. When it cracks open, alot of the pressure inside that hose goes out of the valve, and until the engine can push the air back in that small hole, it will make the needle fall. It will then go back up, where it cracks again and it dumps gauge pressure again. The way to fix it is move the valve farther away where it has less of an influence on the boost gauge. Or, make the boost gauge tube longer, but again less responsive. Or do it the right way and get a Overboost regulator.
that is what i was thinking/hoping. maybe i should move the gauge port to the AIH delete plug. would that solv the problem?
Kris on the BRV+ you can "Blow" the relief and the intake side tap will not lose pressure.
That seems fairly unlikely given how a relief valve operates....Especially under a sustained high boost condition.
Te big question is can you hear it surging along with seeing it on the gauge. A turbo pushing on the stall line makes a very distinct (amd annoying) noise. If you are hearing surge you may need the housing, but if it's just the needle bouncing it's probably a pressure drop at the valve.
With the BRV+ if you are tapped into the intake side you should see a constatnt pressure the Turbo is producing unless you are getting surge. If you tapped into the MAP side you will see the boost the MAP is seeing and it could bounce if is is "Blowing Off"
Why tap the intake when you can remove the AIH and replace it with a plug that has the right fittings for a boost gauge?