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Yes, the standard map light was rectangular and it either came w/ a blacktrim pices or chrom trim piece. You already described the deluxe dome light w/ 2 maps (it was in a chrome housing). PM me for the lens you need.
yeah its a good one I have a light but I think the bulb is burned out. I planned on replacing it after I get it painted. along with new lenses and grille from LMC.
My 86 XL has alot of XLT trim and options in it that were ordered from the factory buy the orig owner.The only Xl stuff is the vinyl seat and rubber floor mat and no air has everything else on the inside as a XLT.I took my under hood light apart when I got it and it had a broken contact I used a part out of a old skill saw switch to repair it.Door panels don't have woodgrain but carpeted pockets and chrome trim all the way around it.
It goes to show you could order these trucks any way you want it. Mine is the XLT model but has the rubber mat instead of carpet. I have ac,cc,tilt wheel,tach & gauges,map pockets,deluxe interior light,20 ft. worklight,cargo lamp,camper special with towing package (oil cooler,trans cooler,8 tie downs) and thse are what I have found so far.
Thanks for the update Glen on the underhod lights. I did not know you could open them up. How did you separate the two pieces? I 3 or 4 extra ones lying around that I want to repair
Thanks everyone for the speaker info. Now I know that I just need to get a piece of plywood cut the right size and screw it in, then I have speaker brackets. Nobody really sees them anyway, so that will be fine.
I used a set of door speaker brackets off of a 1992 Ford Taurus for rear speaker "holders". I used a piece of plumbers tape to extend the bottom bracket "arms" so they reach. I then used a pair of speakers E9AF-18808-AA Premium speakers, with the factory speaker baffles. Works great too, and people think it's stock when they look. . Really the only "non-stock" mod I've done to the old girl.
Thanks for the update Glen on the underhod lights. I did not know you could open them up. How did you separate the two pieces? I 3 or 4 extra ones lying around that I want to repair
I drilled the rivets out and used some small self tapping or sheet metal screws to put it back together.Its been 7 or 8 yrs since I took it apart but I dont remember anything jumping out at me when I split it open I think it was easy to reassemble to.
I used a set of door speaker brackets off of a 1992 Ford Taurus for rear speaker "holders". I used a piece of plumbers tape to extend the bottom bracket "arms" so they reach. I then used a pair of speakers E9AF-18808-AA Premium speakers, with the factory speaker baffles. Works great too, and people think it's stock when they look. . Really the only "non-stock" mod I've done to the old girl.
81-F-150-Explorer do you have pictures of that mod you made? Sounds like it will work good in any of our trucks, even my SC.
I do not have pictures of that mod unfortunately. The ex took the scanner and the camera, so I do not know when I'll be able to get more pics either.
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To Srercrcr:
The cargo light wiring has an in-line diode that only allows power to go one way.
In this way, all the lights turn on with the light switch, including the cargo lamp, using the Black/Pink stripe wire, it goes through the diode to the Black/Blue stripe wire energizing them both.
And in turn it prevents power from going backwards through the diode to the Black/Pink wire when the door switch is activated energizing only the Black/Blue stripe wire.
This diode is prone to burn out and it will either:
A: Let power through both ways so the cargo light comes on with both the door switch and the light switch. Which is no big deal really, and is the most comon occurance.
or...
B: The light switch will only turn on the cargo light and the inside cab lights wont function with the light switch. This can be a pain.
You can see the In-line diode in the wiring diagrams. It also shows the direction of power flow the diode allows.
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