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I agree with Beachbumcook, stay away from the Amsoil filter, and their oil products!! The Amsoil website is full of deceit, and it's a real shame that
some people fall for their BS!!!
Atlease Beachbumcook backs his statements with facts unlike Bob who just spreads hate . Most people can see thru the BS and know what Bob is all about. Maybe its time for me to use Amsoil in my truck also since I have allready used their 2 stroke oils with great results .
However, I know this is not a diesel thread but I'm researching oil now for my 6.0 Excursion and considering "going above and beyond" for a couple reasons, like the summer heat I'll achieve this summer towing a camper, and the fact that everay oil change is 14 quarts. So not only is that an expensive oils to start with, but if I can run it longer (with analysis, max of 7500 or 10K and interim filter change), then that is that much less oil going into the recycle bin every 5k. Hard to think of an excursion driver as an environmentalist, but that's my viewpoint. If I try to go longer, and the blackstone reports come back poor, I'd probably go back to dino and 5k changes pretty quickly. Just a perspective as to why bother with synthetics here.
The only oil that may have a remote chance of going 7500-10,000 miles in the 6.0 is 5W50 full synthetic, even though it is not API CI-4+rated (Trop Artic from Phillips 66, or Motorcraft) The hpop and heui injection system is the limiting factor here. It just plain shears the viscosity of the oil down. Like many of the lube guys here already stated, buy the cheapest API rated oil you can and change at the correct intervals. This is by no means to say that Amsoil doesn't make a good product, they don't test them like the rest of the lubricant manufacturers do. This is where I have a problem with them. Even the bargain basement tech brands from China-Mart are all API rated. For heavy towing in the summer time, there is not a better option than plain old conventional 15W40. If you are just dead set on using a full synthetic, check out ConocoPhillips brands, Phillips 66, Conoco, Kendall, and 76. They are the OEM lubricant manufacturer for Ford, hence the products that are safe or approved for use in your vehicle will not only carry the correct API rating, but the associated Ford wss specification as well. I believe Conoco, and Phillips 66 have intorduced a full synthetic 15W40. They are both API CI-4+ rated. Adding extra capacity in the lube system is another way to help with heat issues. Adding a by-pass filtration system will net you another 2 qts of capcity, plus keep more soot out of the oil.
On a positive note! We are finding out who the Amsoil bigots are!!
Bob be nice. I have heard no one call you anything here.Just that some of us do not agree with everything you say.
Sounds like you lost you --- with some MLM company some where along the line, now ALL of them are bad. You do not like them and I can respect that, but stop ramming it down our throats.
Bob you seem to be a very smart person so why do you went to keep repeating the same old BS.MLM companies have been here, are here and will be here when you and I are dead and going. You don't like them WE ALL KNOW THAT!! Your point has been made over and over again.
If it were not for Amsoil and Sparkys negative posts, FTE would be pretty boring. In order to keep interest in the forum we have to be creative and bring more of Amsoil's problems to light. Shape, color, guage, labeling of containers that would be offensive to other marketers. Al caught pouring Mobil 1 into his containers. Office staff not sensitive to their gay co-workers. These are merely suggestions that i'm sure Sparky will expand on Happy New Year!
Hey guys... can we keep this thing technical, or not? Ganging up on Bob is putting yourselves in a simlar position you accuse him of (ranting repetitively), and none of it is either helpful or useful for any of us.
I'll have to admit, this thread remained pretty techincal for 4-5 pages, and I was glad and impressed to see that much "meat" offered up on the subject. In fact, I'm looking forward to posting the results of my own experiement with Amsoil so we can see more real world data and validate some of the emotional opinions here (while others will obviously be nullified).
What say ye, Moderator?? Maybe this thread has now passed its prime??
I do too Brian!!!! I have had friends and family members that have had to file for bankruptsy, from believing the lies of MLM companies!!!
I wish someday Bob will understand that the way they sell oil has nothing to do with the oil itself.
Nobody puts a gun to your head and makes you buy Amsoil. People buy it ,like it and thats good for them . When you start calling people names like Idoits and Bigots because they buy an oil you don't like . Thats just plain SAD
The only oil that may have a remote chance of going 7500-10,000 miles in the 6.0 is 5W50 full synthetic, even though it is not API CI-4+rated (Trop Artic from Phillips 66, or Motorcraft) The hpop and heui injection system is the limiting factor here. It just plain shears the viscosity of the oil down. Like many of the lube guys here already stated, buy the cheapest API rated oil you can and change at the correct intervals.
Ryan, thanks for the reply and not getting into the scuffle. I hear ya about the 5w50 full synth for the GT, still have not found an 'online' source but will call my dealer for pricing just to see. Also, have not tried searching for the Trop Artic/Philips 66 version yet. I understand your points about the shearing and oil life, and for the record even though I said up to 10k, I'm really only expecting to achieve 7500 intervals (safely). This is still a 50% "improvement" in OCI and is a nice round number -- every other oil change is a fuel filter change, maintenance simplicity.
Adding extra capacity in the lube system is another way to help with heat issues. Adding a by-pass filtration system will net you another 2 qts of capcity, plus keep more soot out of the oil.
Another good point, although this option is not high on my list, still want to add the coolant filter first. Hopefully if I change oil at 7500 and a filter halfway all will be well.
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2005X The GT oil I think is available for $59 a case (Trop Artic version) online from one of the sponsors. With a little more bargain hunting it may be had for less. Funy thing about all the amsoil crap (I reserve my anger for productive arguements, this one has been beat to death so much I cannot do it justice) the 5W50 oil is not rated for diesel use. (I believe they did not test it due to the cost, figuring no one would buy it) However according to Blackstone labs, it meets all of the CI-4+ specs and then some. This may be the key to anything you decide to try, get Blackstone to do a reservoir sample (sample of new oil straight out of the bottle) with the oil of your choice and then a known approved rated oil, then compair. Then decide if you want ot run it. Personally if it contains all of the necessary additives and make up of the appropriate API rating I would not be scared to use it. I would recommend having the oil analyzed 3 times during the run. (ie if trying to obtain 10k interval, do it at 4k, 6k, and 8k, or if trying to obtain 7500 mile interval, 2k, 4k, 6k)
Your recommended sampling/analysis routine is virtually identical to what I've been planning when I make my first run of the DEO oil.
1) Sample what's running now before I change (since I didn't put it in, and don't know when it was changed last except for the fact that the filter itself looks brand new and I've only put 4K miles on since I bought it)
2) Sample the DEO right out of the bottle
3) Sample the oil from the oil pan (via Fumoto valve) at about 3K and 6K miles and see where I stand at each point relative to where I began (analysis on unused oil).
Thank you, gentlemen. For getting this thread back to productive discussion.
Originally Posted by F250-Newbie
What say ye, Moderator?? Maybe this thread has now passed its prime??
Well, this is THE Amsoil thread. Do we really want to kill it off? I've offered this thread as a as a safe zone to discuss all things Amsoil. It's a one time offer. Do we want to return to short Amsoil topics followed by a mod/admin smackdown?
This thread belongs to the Amsoil enthusiast's. So make of it what you will. Freedom is a two way street though. If we want to voice our opinions we have to tolerate the opinions of others.
I would only suggest that we don't waste space continually replying to those who's opinions disagree with you. Especially if it is always the same old disagreement. Believe it or not, there is no online etiquette that requires us to reply to someone who disagrees with you. Even if they reply with your quote. It's not like you are being called out or anything. We won't lose respect for you.
Stay with stock (Racor made)... costs less and is OEM. There is no reason to run your oil and filter longer than recommended as the viscosity shears down... so even if the oil is clean.... the viscosity is worn out and a clean filter and oil is needed... so spend less and get more.
The Amsoil oil filter is a "will-fit" filter and this brand and WIX have been shown to allow "drain-back" of the oil out of the filter housing.
[QUOTE=horsepuller]Well, this is THE Amsoil thread. Do we really want to kill it off? I've offered this thread as a as a safe zone to discuss all things Amsoil. It's a one time offer. Do we want to return to short Amsoil topics followed by a mod/admin smackdown?
This thread belongs to the Amsoil enthusiast's. So make of it what you will. Freedom is a two way street though. If we want to voice our opinions we have to tolerate the opinions of others. QUOTE]
Since this is supposed to be an ongoing thread for Amsoil Enthusiasts as stated above, lets keep it going a while and try to be adult about it. What I mean by that is, if you are someone who does not like amsoil, feel free to post about the oil, not the marketing methods or life generalities. I am not involved with the company in any way, but use this board for research and like to gain the perspective of others, like most of us. If the marketing stuff is posted ignore it or take it up as PM/email if you must, but no reason to start a public spitting contest about it. Has it occurrd to everyone that the baiting going on is intended to get the thread locked?
This group should be able to pull this off guys...common sense.
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