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Now, for the argument's sake, let assume that your mpg gain was due to Amsoil. If that's the case, other people using Amsoil should be seeing comparable gains in mpg. Does anyone else seeing 10% - 15% mpg gain?
First, no hard feelings on my part Pete, and thank you for understanding why I'm so adamant against Amsoil!
aurgathor, I agree with your asumptions. If Amsoil's oil products gave those kind of improvements to MPG, they wouldn't have to resort to all the deceit
that they presently have on their website!
aurgathor, we could argue academic exercises all day long, but I won't. It would help if you didn't take pieces of my posts out of context. I also posted a statement that I had previsouly changed valve cover gaskets while running Mobil 1 with no affect on mileage whatsoever. The statement you quoted above regarding "no other variables...except for the extra year's wear on the engine" was not meant to say that I had made no changes at all. The operative word is "other" in that quote, which agrees with what I had said in the earlier post. There were no OTHER changes made aside from those previously reported.
Therefore, the only OTHER change made after taking care of the gaskets was simple engine wear. However, simple reasoning rules that out as being a part due to the dramatic step-change in mileage that was measured on the first fillup after changing oils. This step-change was maintained for a full year with no other maintenance/repair activities on the vehicle. Simple facts. Who knows? Perhaps there were other variables coming into play, but I know that they weren't associated with my maintenance/repair practices or seasonal ambient conditions.
Oh, I forgot to mention that I did change my seat covers in that same year, though. I had forgotten about that!
Pete, I just figured out your MPG improvement! It's called WWRWallet Weight Reduction from paying the high price for the Amsoil!!
I was at my tranny shop yesterday having my daily driver serviced and saw an Amsoil multi-purpose syntetic tranny fluid that supposedly works on vehicles running everything, Dextron III, Mercon, Mercon V, etc.
From what i've read, running something like that in my Mercon V only tranny would KILL it...i've been faithful in FLUSHING the tranny every 30k miles (although, i just returned from Iraq and lost my last receipt, so i serviced it after i took it out of storage...only to find the receipt showing i just serviced her 20k miles ago!) Thoughts????
ALSO, for those that don't know, Ford dealers "should" be using the "new" HEATED flushing system that came out a few years back...those quick lube (and probably my tranny shop) don't use them!
Rob
2001 Ford F150 SuperCrew Lariat 4X4
Hypertech Power Programmer
Hypertech Powerstat 160 Thermostat
Custom dual rear exit pipes with Flowmaster muffler
K&N Series 77 Cold Air Intake
Cooper ATR 265/70-17
Ford came out with a TSB, which is VERY EXPLICIT on using Mercon V ONLY!
Absolutely no multi-purpose ATFs (Mercon V / Dexron). The friction modifiers
are different in Mercon V.
Last edited by horsepuller; Dec 30, 2006 at 12:10 AM.
You've seen the picture pretty clearly, rusty. That's why I kept throwing out tidbits like "changed out the flasher" and "replaced my seat covers". Those things were readily discounted by everyone and not even referred to in any of the rebuttals... but no one caught on to what you've mentioned. I appreciate your keen eye, rusty.
Pete , You can post your mileage and prove that the mileage went up but your never going to change some peoples mind that it was in fact the Amsoil is what did it.
I believe its great that it happen and if your happy with it .Thats all that matters .
Your fuel savings will pay for itself and I wouldn't look back and keep doing what your doing.
My question is for those that are planning on or have been using this in a 6.0 PSD, which version is "best" to use and reasoning. I believe the only one that is API certified for diesels is the syn blend version(PCO), and it probably makes sense to go full synthetic. Having said that, is the 'new formula' that is supposed to meet CJ4 specs (yes, I know it's not API certified, no need to rehash this please) the best option? I believe this is DEO 5w40 weight. Or I see the 15w40 AME for diesel/marine engines. I'm in TN so it does not get that cold, and in the winter my X is most always garaged anyway for cold starts never below 45 degrees or so. I'm guessing DEO is considered the way to go, but seems like some of the additives that make it 2007 engine compatible also can hurt the longevity of the oil, or is that fiction?
BTW, Interesting thread, and just glad to see an Amsoil thread not get locked down for change.
I've always been one who was ready and willing to stand alone when necessary. I have to admit, too, though, that I have in the past been sometimes TOO willing and ready. I try to take things a whole lot more easily these days, because the heartburn isn't worth it.
2005X... rather than rehash all the various commentaries that have surrounded this issue, you probably should take a little while to read through the various Amsoil threads on FTE over the past several months. I know that you will have to wade through a lot of "hash" in the process, but there is some good information scattered between some of the flaming arrows. Sounds like you already have done some serious reading on the issue, though, and you may be where I am... I'm going to take a run with the DEO product, but only with aggressive and careful sampling and analysis so I can pull out quick if necessary.
My question is for those that are planning on or have been using this in a 6.0 PSD, which version is "best" to use and reasoning. I believe the only one that is API certified for diesels is the syn blend version(PCO), and it probably makes sense to go full synthetic. Having said that, is the 'new formula' that is supposed to meet CJ4 specs (yes, I know it's not API certified, no need to rehash this please) the best option? I believe this is DEO 5w40 weight. Or I see the 15w40 AME for diesel/marine engines. I'm in TN so it does not get that cold, and in the winter my X is most always garaged anyway for cold starts never below 45 degrees or so. I'm guessing DEO is considered the way to go, but seems like some of the additives that make it 2007 engine compatible also can hurt the longevity of the oil, or is that fiction?
BTW, Interesting thread, and just glad to see an Amsoil thread not get locked down for change.
If you are determined to use Amsoil in your 6.0L, then PCO is your best bet.
AT LEAST it is CI-4 API certified. But, if you do your research on the oil and lubrication forum, Rotella, and Delo both work well, and you can save yourself some money! You can also find good oil information in the 6.0L with threads/posts from Beachbumcook, and blackhat620. Just remember the inflated cost of Amsoil products is due to the MLM structure!
Last edited by Bob Ayers; Dec 30, 2006 at 07:18 AM.
My question is for those that are planning on or have been using this in a 6.0 PSD, which version is "best" to use and reasoning. I believe the only one that is API certified for diesels is the syn blend version(PCO), and it probably makes sense to go full synthetic. Having said that, is the 'new formula' that is supposed to meet CJ4 specs (yes, I know it's not API certified, no need to rehash this please) the best option? I believe this is DEO 5w40 weight. Or I see the 15w40 AME for diesel/marine engines. I'm in TN so it does not get that cold, and in the winter my X is most always garaged anyway for cold starts never below 45 degrees or so. I'm guessing DEO is considered the way to go, but seems like some of the additives that make it 2007 engine compatible also can hurt the longevity of the oil, or is that fiction?
BTW, Interesting thread, and just glad to see an Amsoil thread not get locked down for change.
Having said that, is the 'new formula' that is supposed to meet CJ4 specs (yes, I know it's not API certified, no need to rehash this please) the best option?
DO NOT believe everything you read on the Amsoil website!!!!
Last edited by Bob Ayers; Dec 30, 2006 at 08:15 AM.
What? Since when does the crankcase have vacuum? Normally, things inside the valve cover like oil and air, want to get outside because of the pressure created by blowby. This is why we have a PCV valve.
Maybe he bumped something while working on it? Maybe it had nothing to do with the valve cover gasket. Maybe, he hit a large pothole and dislodged a stuck PCV valve, for instance.
Too many variables here, and it's only one data point. We're arguing over nothing here. I dont doubt his results, I doubt how meaningful they are. The real test would be to see if it's repeatable. I would say, try going back to whatever you were using before, and see what happens. If the mileage immediately goes back down to what it was before you used the Amsoil, then it points more toward the oil. If it stays up where it is now, then we know it wasn't the Amsoil that did it.
One other concern I have about Amsoil, is the additives. Amsoil uses extra additives above and beyond API limits, correct? This is why the cannot get API certification? Well, there was a reason the limits were lowered. It was to protect the catylitic converter. Would the non-certified Amsoil products, then, have the potential to cause premature catylitic converter failure?
Last edited by rusty70f100; Dec 30, 2006 at 11:58 AM.
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