binding cylinder inside ignition switch
Working on a 1966 F100 2WD ignition switch; each door and the ignition used a different key. Purchased a lock cylinder set from DC so would only have a single key for all. The mounting plate was missing and the ignition switch bezel was broken...the assembly was held in the dash by sheet metal screws jammed between the bezel and the hole in the dash; the dash area looks OK with no noticeable distortion. Also purchased a mounting plate and bezel from DC; installed everything but now the lock cylinder binds within the ignition switch such that the key does not return to on when the key is released from the start position. Did not bind when rigged in the dash. Tried the old lock cylinder as well as one borrowed from the other 66 -- both bind as well. If I push the ignition switch towards the seat the lock cylinder will no longer bind; when I do this there is a small gap between the dash face and the bezel. Anybody experienced this problem; could I just shim under the bezel or should I buy a new switch?
Thanks,
Gavin
Working on a 1966 F100 2WD ignition switch; each door and the ignition used a different key. Purchased a lock cylinder set from DC so would only have a single key for all. The mounting plate was missing and the ignition switch bezel (C3TZ-11584-A) was broken...the assembly was held in the dash by sheet metal screws jammed between the bezel and the hole in the dash; the dash area looks OK with no noticeable distortion. Also purchased a mounting plate and bezel from DC; installed everything but now the lock cylinder binds within the ignition switch (C3AZ-11572-A) such that the key does not return to on when the key is released from the start position. Did not bind when rigged in the dash. Tried the old lock cylinder as well as one borrowed from the other 66 -- both bind as well.
If I push the spring loaded ignition switch towards the seat the lock cylinder will no longer bind; when I do this there is a small gap between the dash face and the bezel.
Anybody experienced this problem; could I just shim under the bezel or should I buy a new switch?New switch comes with spring (Ford/autoparts stores), but not the spacer. Is the spring (11581) missing?
I also wonder what lock cylinder came in the 'keyed alike' door/ignition lock set (C3AZ-6222050-B) you bought from DC, as there's more than one type.
If it's wrong, cylinder will not lock in place in the switch.
Place key in cylinder, place paper clip in hole, turn key to accessory (left), cylinder comes out from switch, then bezel can be removed. To install, process in reverse.
The spacer is in there; bought it from DC along with a new bezel and lock cylinder. The lock cylinder kit I purchased from DC was assigned their # of C3AZ-6222050-B, listed for 61-66, and described as one ignition cylinder and two door lock cylinders with two keys - all keyed alike. The only parts not new are the ignition switch and the spring on the ignition switch. The cylinder locks within the switch as it should and I am familiar with installing and removing the cylinder using a paper clip to access the small pin.
Working on a 1966 F100 2WD ignition switch; each door and the ignition used a different key. Purchased a lock cylinder set from DC so would only have a single key for all. The mounting plate was missing and the ignition switch bezel was broken...the assembly was held in the dash by sheet metal screws jammed between the bezel and the hole in the dash; the dash area looks OK with no noticeable distortion. Also purchased a mounting plate and bezel from DC; installed everything but now the lock cylinder binds within the ignition switch such that the key does not return to on when the key is released from the start position. Did not bind when rigged in the dash. Tried the old lock cylinder as well as one borrowed from the other 66 -- both bind as well. If I push the ignition switch towards the seat the lock cylinder will no longer bind; when I do this there is a small gap between the dash face and the bezel. Anybody experienced this problem; could I just shim under the bezel or should I buy a new switch?
Thanks,
Gavin
maybe a note to DC from you and I would help the next guy?
The spacer is in there; bought it from DC along with a new bezel and lock cylinder.
The lock cylinder kit I purchased from DC is Ford part number: C3AZ-6222050-B, listed for 61-66, 1960/64 Falcon/Galaxie, 1962/64 Fairlane and described as one ignition cylinder and two door lock cylinders with two keys - all keyed alike (I listed same part number in post 2).
The only parts not new are the ignition switch and the spring on the ignition switch. The cylinder locks within the switch as it should and I am familiar with installing and removing the cylinder using a paper clip to access the small pin.
Correct cylinder w/keys is C3AZ-11582-A that also fits 1966/77 Bronco.
I had my ignition switch out the other day as was wiring a device to the ACC post on the switch. I had a slight gap because the three tabs weren't fully seated in the three slots on the spacer. It's a bit awkward to push in and turn the switch to lock it into a tightness, keep trying.
DC is popular on this forum, but they do have problems as a lot of their stuff isn't tooled or made in the US, as any people who have ordered door parts have found out. There was a major blunder with their door handle regulators, for example, the thing was assembled incorrectly. A lot of their most popular items. meaning the most common things you would want to get that you see listed as not currently in stock are manufactured in South America. I am currently not very happy with DC but that is another story.
You stated you have an old ignition switch. You can get that part at almost any auto parts store anywhere for cheap. Since you are changing the cylinder, why not the switch, too?
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At the 2011 Western Nationals Truck Show (held the 3rd week of June in Anaheim), I asked Pat Ford, DC's 'road man' who travels the US in an newish F350 Super Duty Crew Cab pulling a trailer, attending shows/swap meets...where most of DC's repro parts come from.
His answer: China.
Prior to working for DC, Pat Ford owned the 3 day F100 Super Nationals Truck Show/Swap Meet held in Pigeon Forge TN
After he sold it, new owners moved the show moved to Knoxville, invited Mustang and etc car owners. I attended the 2008 event in Knoxville, held in the parking lot next to the Knoxville Zoo.
Show has now returned to Pigeon Forge, more cars are now attending. New owners musta figured that by inviting car owners with deep pockets, they could make more money than off the cheapskate truck owners.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Anyway, cant remember if read it here or another website, but the manufacturing plant screwed that one up big time, and the two clips on the part were placed in backwards, causing the door open shaft to not fully function and DC yanked the part and wrote the guy who found it out there was a problem and it would be corrected in the future. I believe they said it was made in Brazil, actually. There were pics in the thread showing the issue with the part.
The good news is they seem to have corrected it, as it is in stock again.
However, all this kinda off-topic since getting that switch to sit firmly and tightly in Gavin's dash is the priority.
Cheers.
They have also added "import" to the description online. So at least they are now notifying buyers that the item is an imported one, so that's cool.
They have also added "import" to the description online. So at least they are now notifying buyers that the item is an imported one, so that's cool.
This has p!ssed off some of the other obsolete parts vendors, as they know this violates FoMoCo's franchise agreement they have with their new car/truck dealers and Motorcraft jobbers that clearly states that they and they alone can buy parts from FoMoCo.
So, are these Argentine parts repro's or Genuine Ford? Besides selling these trucks in the US/Canada, FoMoCo sold 'em in Central/South America, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand.
FoMoCo was the first automaker to go global, Henry built assembly plants/parts depots worldwide to sell Model T's. In the 1970's, FoMoCo bought Kaiser-Jeep do Brazil...lock, stock and barrel.
This was a different entity than Kaiser-Jeep, that was sold to AMC.
Jeep, the most traveled brand in the history of the autobiz, owned in chronological order by the following:
American Bantam/******-Overland/Kaiser-Frazer/Kaiser-******/Kaiser-Jeep/AMC/Renault-AMC/Chrysler Corp/Daimler-Chrysler/Cerberus Capitol Management/US Govt/US Gov't-FIAT-Chrysler.
This has p!ssed off some of the other obsolete parts vendors, as they know this violates FoMoCo's franchise agreement they have with their new car/truck dealers and Motorcraft jobbers that clearly states that they and they alone can buy parts from FoMoCo.
So, are these Argentine parts repro's or Genuine Ford? Besides selling these trucks in the US/Canada, FoMoCo sold these trucks in Central/South America, South Africa, Australia and New Zealand.
FoMoCo was the first automaker to go global, Henry built assembly plants/parts depots worldwide to sell Model T's.
That's a really good question as to if it really is a Genuine FoMoCo Argentine import or not, and I do not know. It is only described as "import". It didn't used to be described that way. What I do know is that door open shaft (DC lists the part as C1TB-8121818-R), was impossible to find from a vendor from months, although certainly one could be found off a parts truck. I figured that was because all the vendors sell the same item from the same plant.
I don't know, but anyone who bought it from DC and others for a while, didn't get the results they expected. The issue was with the little clips on the side of the part wouldn't catch correctly and some guy realized it was installed wrong at the factory and notified DC. Good to see they resolved it though.
There's a USA law that has 'been on the books' for over 100 years that clearly states if goods imported from foreign countries to the US...have to be marked with the country of origin.
I recall that in the late 1980's, parts cartons began arriving that said: Contents Hecho en Mexico. Some customers were really put off by Ford dealers selling Mexican made parts.
'Course back then, like today, many people are unaware that the new piles they just bought, could have been made in Canada, Germany, Mexico, South Korea...and the US of A.
btw: Some imported goods (DC's repro parts for example) are affixed with a tiny ovate shaped yellow sticker that says Made in China...that can be peeled off the packages.
One a these days, one/all of the repro parts sellers will face HUGE fines for passing off China made parts as US made parts.
* C1TB-8121818-B .. Door Latch Remote Control & Link Assy / Right/Left is the same / Obsolete ~ 4 available NOS / Last MSRP: $37.55 / Dealer net cost: $22.53.
1961/66 F100/1100 / 1963/69 N/NT/T500/1100 / 1967/69 F800/1000.







