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Old Dec 5, 2006 | 09:38 PM
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460 overheating

ive got a 77 highboy w/ 460 pushing around 400-450 hp. new all aluminum rad. electric fans, new rad cap, stock waterpump, no thermostat just a 1" restrictor plate and ive tried various plates. still overheats 230+ at 2500 rpm. only thing i can think is the timing.
it has msd everything as far as the igniton/timing goes. timing now is around 15 deg.
i have no idea what else to do plz help
 
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Old Dec 5, 2006 | 10:10 PM
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You need to install a thermostat as this restrictor stuff is race only and doesn't work well on the street. Is the truck moving when the problem occurs? Initial timing don't mean squat for your problem. Check the timing at 2500 and see where it is at. If it is higher than 36° to 38° their is your trouble (assuming no vacuum advance).
 
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Old Dec 5, 2006 | 10:30 PM
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ill try the thempstat. but i have a mech. adv. dizzy. what should my timing be at the crank? also have u ever heard bout a waterpump coverplate?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 09:37 AM
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its a backing plate... the part that goes between your pump and the block, if thats missing it could cause your overheating problem
 
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Old Dec 6, 2006 | 11:39 AM
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What darrin says is true. The backing plate or gaskets in wrong or the plate missing will play havoc with the cooling. Depending on the advance curve in the dist., initial timing could be anything from 6° to 18°. Check total advance to be safe and if it is 34° to 38°, then check initial and see where to set it next time. If not adjust until it is around 36°.
 
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 08:48 PM
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Another item that helps with cooling, other than a 165 deg. thermostat is to close off between the top of the grill and the radiator. Stock, there is rubber there but it seems to disappear with age. What happens is that the air will deflect up & over the radiator rather than going thru it, path of least resistance. Oviously helps when moving.

Earl
 
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Old Dec 7, 2006 | 11:48 PM
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also id ditch the electric fan.. swap in a good flex-fan and shroud- they cool better
 
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Old Dec 8, 2006 | 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by F350 Strait
Another item that helps with cooling, other than a 165 deg. thermostat is to close off between the top of the grill and the radiator. Stock, there is rubber there but it seems to disappear with age. What happens is that the air will deflect up & over the radiator rather than going thru it, path of least resistance. Oviously helps when moving.

Earl
That's very true. You want as much air as you can to flow thru the radiator. Any that gets into the engine compartment without going thru the radiator cuts cooling effectiveness. A buddy has a '94 full size Dodge pickup and there were almost no dams around the radiator from the factory. The truck had marginal cooling with the V-10 at best. On a trip to Oregon one summer, we got some cardboard and blocked off all the air bypass places to test my theory. No more overheat and he made sheet metal ones when he got home. He's still running that truck today without any problem in the cooling department.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 12:07 AM
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i did the backing plate timing is good, i dont have my heater hoses connected, there just blocked off from the intake and water pump. it cools fine when idling but when driving for 15-20 mins. @ 30-40mph it gradually overheats.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 06:22 AM
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it might be because the heater hoses are blocked off...dont ask me why, but my 460 ran hot when i had the heater hoses plugged...try running a hose from one to the other making a loop....it kinda acts like a bypass of sorts, and it will only cost a couple bucks... so if its not the problem you wont be out much money.....
 
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Old Dec 13, 2006 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by detmerdj
i did the backing plate timing is good, i dont have my heater hoses connected, there just blocked off from the intake and water pump. it cools fine when idling but when driving for 15-20 mins. @ 30-40mph it gradually overheats.
This sounds like one of two things. Too much vacuum advance or not enough radiator. I also didn't like the heater hoses block, looping them is a better idea as the circulate the water thru the radiator better when the thermostat is closed, which cools the coolant better.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 12:28 AM
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my vacuum at idle is 19.5-20 steadily and i have an msd mechanical advance dizzy. also the heater hoses are already bypassed is there a need to do it in two different ports? the only other problem i can think of is wrong head gaskets that are restricting the coolant flow.
 
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Old Dec 14, 2006 | 03:04 AM
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What do you mean "the heater hoses are already bypassed is there a need to do it in two different ports?" As far sa I know there is only only one in and one out for the heater and you said they were plugged. How much timing are you running? Initial, total and at the rpm the over heat occurs at? If the head gaskets were on backwards (the only way they can restrict flow) the engine would overheat at idle too.
 
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