Holy Cow! Guess who tried his 4x4 this morning...

Well the weather outside is frightful...and I'm just confused. Bear with me, please.

My driveway was a sheet of ice this morning. I turned the truck on and let it warm up for ten minutes. (79 F150 351m 4x4) Got to the end of the driveway where I have to stop to check for vehicles...I couldn't move again. Back wheels were spinning. Yes, I've got 240 lbs of sand bags in the back. Tried drive and reverse, and turned the steering wheel everyway but off...no go.

So I get out, lock the hubs and shift into 4 hi.

Climbed right out of my driveway, and down the icy, slushy road that I live on. Even stopped at the stop sign before turning onto a major road.

Major Road. As in cleared for snow and ice...clean, dry pavement. I swear, I knew that turning in 4wd would be an issue, but once I was straight and travelling down the cleared road, I could only do about 22 or 25 mph and the truck felt as if it were binding. Steering felt horrible...felt like it was falling apart. It would pull one way, then the other. Stomp on the gas, and it drove relatively straight for a few feet at a time. If I took my foot off of the hammer, it just growled itself to a crawl.

What do I do guys? I can't shift back to 2wd without climbing out and unlocking the hubs...AND BACKING UP. And I couldn't get out of my driveway in 2wd.

(I finally salted the driveway and dug my little car out...I'm at work, but an hour and a half late...and what do I do tommorow?)

Any ideas? Something mechanically wrong with the 4x4?

I'm a winter driving newbie...so if I'm just being a moron, feel free to point it out...but if you've got something constructive behind it, that'd be good.

 

hmm sounds to me like mabe the gear ratio in the front and rear dont match.i did this on perpass once in a 74 bronco and thats how it drove,but i used it for muddrags only.

 

Have you changed anything since the last time you used the 4wd? Do the tire sizes match? Also check the axle shafts in the front axle to make sure the u-joints are good. Also check the front drive shaft u-joints and the splined slip thing on the driveshaft.

 

I dunno and no. Tires on the front are 225, rear are 235. I bought the truck in April and engaged 4wd to see if it worked, but haven't used it or touched any piece of it since. I did fill the front differential and the transfer case some time ago...but other than that, I haven't touched it.


Fella at work says they are mismatched (the gear ratios...) from the factory as has been mentioned here before. Awful slick driveway needs the 4x4, but the clear, clean major streets won't allow it. Me thinks I'm sunk.

 

First, don't run 4 wheel drive on dry roads. It is not adviceable. To much stress on drivetrain components.

Second, run equal size tires on 4 wheel drive. When tires are not equally size (diameter of tire) matched, To much stress on drivetrain components. This could result in something breaking or wearing.

 

Not to hi-jack, but I have a mismatched set of rims (9in and 10 in wide) Running 33x12.5's on them. Anybody think there would be too much difference to use them or should I search for a matching front (already have another 10in, just missing 1 from the set).

 

Yes rim width can and will change the rolling diameter of the tire, so it would be best to find that one more rim.

 

Thanks for the input...I don't have a lot of options and I didn't think I would. I need the 4wd to get to the major road where I cannot use 4wd, and cannot shift out of it.

Oh well. Guess I get tommorow off...right?

 

lock your hubs and leave them locked shift to 4wd to get out of driveway then shift into 2 hi to go down the clear road leaving the hubs locked will have no bad effects also get matching tires and rims for all 4 wheels

 

I can shift into 2 hi and keep driving with the hubs locked? Don't I have to unlock the hubs for the 4wd to disengage?

 

I agree with gbrett. For now just leave your hubs locked. I lock mine the day before we are suppose to get snow. To cold and lazy to do it in the morn. Just want to get in the truck and get warm. Have been doing this sense 1974 and the truck is still ticking just fine. But I would try getting the tires to match before you spend money on fixing other things. The size difference might just be the problem. 4x4s do not like dry roads. Erv

 

Depends on what transfer case you have...

 

if his tcase has a 2 hi position and assuming it is factory its a 205 part time unit and with the hubs locked t-case in 2 hi only the rear axle is getting power front axle is turning but is turning independantly of the rest of the drive train

 

If the front hub and/or hub assembly has not been lubricated, then it is highly recommended to have the front hubs, bearings, spindle bearings, repacked and bearing seals replaced.

If the 4x4 transfer case is disengaged, and 4x4 is not needed, then it is appropiate to disengage the hubs. Unless if the 4x4, transfer engaged is needed soon, or nearby along the road.

If the hubs/front axle assembly has not been used for sometime. Then, it is appropiate to run the front axle/hub locked and the transfer case in 2 hi, as this will allow the grease and gear oil of the front axle to lubricate.

If the 4x4 has/ or will not be used or has not been used, run the front hubs locked, and the transfer case in 2 hi, and run the truck no more than 35 mph and max of 45 mph, this will allow the front axle assembly to be lubed till appropiately needed. You can run the truck in the city, with the hubs locked, and the transfer case in 2 hi, 2 wheel, this will help to keep the front axle lubricated.

If you do need the 4x4 while the transfer case in 2 hi (2 wheel drive) and the hubs are locked, then shift the transfer case to 4 hi or 4lo. 4 hi is good for mountain driving as needed, and 4 lo is good for towing as needed.

 

there is no speed restrictions for hubs locked you can leave your hubs locked at all times if you want to and it used to be recomended to lock your hubs 5 miles each month for lubrication purposes it really is more of a fuel milage issue than a wear issue so I leave mine on my bronco locked most of the time since it is used off road a lot and my pickup is locked most of the time in the winter all that changes when the hubs are locked is the front axle shafts turn and the front drive shaft turns you are still mechanically disconected at the t-case