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I was thinking of brushing on por 15 to give my frame a nice hard coat and to fill in any small pits and such,and then spray painting over por 15 with automotive paint for the finishing touch. So what i'm asking is would this be a good idea or not? i want to have my frame the same color as my truck when it's all said and done but want to eliminate as many imperfections as possible and have a good hard coat on the frame for protection.
I brushed Zero Rust onto my frame a couple weeks ago and wasn't happy with the finish...there were lots of brush marks. I'm not sure if Por-15 would have the same problem. It also depends on the condition of your frame. If it's rough and pitted, then it won't matter so much.
Somebody here suggested using a sponge instead of a brush to paint with, and that helped quite a bit, but it still left a textured surface instead of smooth. If I had it to do over again, I'd probably do what I'm going to suggest next.
If you can get the metal clean (sand blast or wire brush it), and you intend to use an automotive paint, you might consider just hitting it with a good solid epoxy primer designed to work with the automotive paint you plan to use. If you want to fill some of the small imperfections, you could follow the epoxy primer with a high build primer, then finally cover it all with the color coat. Primers and paint from the same manufacturer, used as part of a system, will always work the best.
I use Zero-Rust and have been very happy with the ease of application and the flow. I have found that this product will flow into a nice "molten wax" looking finish when applied in a full coverage coat.
Por-15 is a self-leveling paint, at least as far as I have seen. I have spray painted with it and used a brush with the same, smooth resulting surface.
While the catalog and website say it is compatable with other paints, I have not made it far enough to test yet.
Using most any primer/paint with a brush will give brush marks,unwanted brush hairs etc,in your frame,etc..It is much easier to brush as much as is easy to reach,but not in eye level and then spray a coat over it and in the corners,etc.I have painted pro.for 30 yrs and assure you that as long as you take care in what you are painting it will look fine.Pros tell people that you must go explicitly by the directions and not to brush because there will be imperfections,and spraying by a non-pro may be hazardous--use a good respirator is the best advice.Also,apply 2-3 coats with a flashoff and it will shine.Epoxies are also a great route.Ihave had success for years with epoxies.
POR-15 is not fun to sand. It's very hard, and clogs the paper quickly. I've also had questionable paint adhesion to it as well ... maybe I skimped on the sanding because it was such slow going.
There is a tie-coat primer for topcoats over por-15 and that is how I use it.Inow use chassis saver,and epoxies for frames and pitted metal.SANDBLAST is best/or acid dip.YES sanding these oxygen sealing primers/paint will clog up sandpaper.
So maybe just apoxy primer and paint would be the way to go? i like the hard finish por 15 will give me, but i definetly do not like the sanding needed for a paint over.
I generally never sand the por 15/etc,I sand a primer and use the chassis saver/por 15 ,etcas a sealer more than most painters.That way I rarely ever have to sand the por 15.,Epoxies are very good.Look on tv at CDDINGTON,ETC ,they all use epoxy.Ilike the new oxy.seal paints only for heavy rust that I cannot blast and sand well.
Yea-that works grear-especially when you nab it right out of the blast cabinet/booth.Parts last along time done this way.My feelings are-professionally prepared metal costs alot,and when you can do it yourself you learn and save.If you are the kind of guy that keeps his vehicles a long time,then you will probably paint or at least spot paint many times over a course of time.So if not perfect 1st time--do it again.---paint is so expensive any more_______wew