Hi all,
I'm getting ready to paint the frame and have some "rust paint" questions.

Is POR 15 the way to go? Any specific blend number?
Is a sealer needed? I would like to have a hardened top coat but if it's not needed, I won't.

Thanks,

 

POR-15, IMO, is good stuff. It's expensive and once you open the can it will start to harden so buy only the quantity you think you will need. If you buy a full gallon can you have to use it, it won't stay good in the can too long. Also, use gloves. Although my experience with POR-15 and using gloves wasn't very good. They gloves got caught on a few jagged pieces of metal and ripped up and became useless. Once POR-15 gets on your skin it's next to impossible to get off. I would told if you use alcohol before it dries you can get it off. I know lacquer thinner doesn't touch it once it's dry.

I use a two part epoxy mastic direct to metal primer on my latest project and so far it seems just as tough as POR-15, which is an acrylic mastic. There was a discussion about POR-15 a while back. There were quite a few posts, here is what I posted but also read the others:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...ml#post9162227

 

I used Chassis Saver on my project (because I found it locally without having it shipped). I imagine it's pretty comparable. As an FYI, I used about 3/4 of a one-quart can to paint an entire F-1 chassis. Bob is right about how that stuff sticks to your skin. If you get it on your skin, you will literally have to grind it off with one of those pumice stones, etc. Gas, paint thinner, etc. doesn't touch it. Buy a full box of medical latex gloves, and use them.

 

If your going to spray or paint it I used eastwood rust encapsulator for my primer then extreme chassis black for the topcoat. Went on easy and looks good, it's only been a year and its sat outside unprotected and no rust coming through. It's all in the prep though.

 

Thanks for the replies, guys.

Did you guys top coat/seal it afterward? I like to do things "once" as often as possible. It looks like the Chassis Saver should have a top coat for the UV sealer?

What would you suggest for bolt holes, etc to minimize rub wear?

 

No need to seal with the eastwood products I used, they are also uv resistant.

I can't comment on bolt holes yet since I'm still in pieces.

 

Just to muddy things up a bit, if you can afford to powder coat, that is an excellent alternative. Did my 55 frame with that about 10 yrs ago and am completely happy with it. Expensive, but worth it IMO. They sand blasted first. Used POR 15 for inside the door hem flanges and inside the cab corners.

 

I used a product called "zero rust" you can reduce to spray or brush on.
on my 1950 F2
I used it in my frame and all fenders, bed, tail gate and cab all over, used 2 gallons. I sprayed it and it seams to hold up real well. Cab sat outside all last winter under tarp but did not show any signs of rust.
It will wet sand for more primer or you can top coat over it.

 

Top coating POR-15 is the biggest problem I see. If you want to paint over it you have to buy a primer from POR-15, more money. Most of the other products that compete with POR-15 you can paint right over without buying another one of their products.

POR-15 hardens like iron and will not come off as long as you follow their directions. POR-15 will not stick to fresh, clean metal. It needs a "tooth" to grip onto. It will stick to sandblasted new metal but not metal that has just be sanded. It will also stick to solid rust, you have to remove all flaky rust.

 

I just received my order of Eastwood's PRE, Rust Converter and Rust Encapsulator. Based on my research, primarily comparing to POR15, it seemed to have better reviews, easier to apply and options as far as having to apply a topcoat. The only thing I didnt consider is that I do have a few small bare metal areas from grinding that I will have to apply a metal primer. Hope it works as advertised and it truly neutralizes the rust. I hate to find out that rust continued to eat through the metal under this product and it wasn't visible to the eye.

 

Here's is a little tip for those who are having problems with these type paints hardening in the can after opening. I screw in two heavy sheetmetal screws into the top of the can, one for the paint to come out and the other for the air to go in. I NEVER remove the cover of the can...when I need paint I take one or both of the screws out, pour out the amount of paint I need and immediately reinsert the screws. Since this paint goes such a long way, many times I can pour the paint out onto the brush and skip the cup. I hope the can in the photo is clear enough to see the screws in the lid...this particular can is over 3 years old and still going strong.

 

When ever I use paint or a product like POR-15 I invert the can after use and store upside down. No air gets past the fluid to ruin the product. Like Charlie, several cans several years old

 

POR15 can be removed from skin with rubbing alcohol. Really. Gloves are still highly recommend.

 

If you have a mig welder, after using the paint, make sure the seal lip on the can is perfectly clean or you'll never get it open again, then place the cover on the can lift it slightly and shoot some shielding gas into the can and quickly close it. Many mig machines have a purge setting you can use or take the gas hose off the back of the machine and direct it into the can.

 

[quote=bobj49f2;14456019]Top coating POR-15 is the biggest problem I see. If you want to paint over it you have to buy a primer from POR-15, more money. Most of the other products that compete with POR-15 you can paint right over without buying another one of their products.

A trick I was taught with POR 15 is to spray a topcoat of your choice over the POR just when its tacky. Its got to have good finger drag but not stick to your fingers as you drag them. I used spray can Rustoleum over the Frame on the 49 to shine it up a bit. Then on the back of the frame in a hidden spot I took a ball pien hammer and gave it a few good wacks. Tough stuff as I never made it down to the metal. If it drys to much though the paint wont stick and you have to use their topcoats. I used the POR for the frame, rear end, front end and a whole lot of other stuff just cause I had it. Takes alot to properly prep the metal though. Use Rust bullet or the Eastwood stuff. Just as tough but way easier to apply.