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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 02:31 PM
  #31  
SCROWLEY707's Avatar
SCROWLEY707
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From: Napa
it doesn't hesitate, I just checked for codes with a EZlink and it had no codes stored, should it have something stored if the service engine soon light blinks like that? Or would I have to hook it up to a better scanner? I don't have a boost guage or a fuel pressure guage
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 03:54 PM
  #32  
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PaysonPSD
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From: Payson, AZ
Originally Posted by SCROWLEY707
it doesn't hesitate, I just checked for codes with a EZlink and it had no codes stored, should it have something stored if the service engine soon light blinks like that? Or would I have to hook it up to a better scanner? I don't have a boost guage or a fuel pressure guage
Hook it up to a better scanner, one that can read enhanced ford codes. See if you have a MAP DTC.

These are the only MAP DTCs I found on my list:

P0236 - MAP - Turbo boost sensor A circuit performance - Restricted inlet/exhaust/supply hose, missing hose

P0237 - MAP - Turbo boost sensor A circuit low input - Circuit open, short to ground, MAP sensor

P0238 - MAP - Turbo boost sensor A circuit low high - Circuit short to power, MAP sensor


Don't really understand why it just flashes.

Has anyone else seen the SES light just flash?
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 04:44 PM
  #33  
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rebelchevy02
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From: Milroy, PA
Flash is a relative term. I have never seen one come on and go back off in under about 2 minutes. I think the overboost one is in the 2 minute range.
 
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Old Mar 13, 2010 | 05:55 PM
  #34  
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PaysonPSD
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From: Payson, AZ
Originally Posted by rebelchevy02
Flash is a relative term. I have never seen one come on and go back off in under about 2 minutes. I think the overboost one is in the 2 minute range.
By flash I meant the way it would flash on the video, so relative to the video.

I agree with the 2 minute duration. I have never see it flash but didn't know if anyone else had.

First it was the Fuel Reset lamp and now the SES lamp. It may be wiring or instrument panel problem. But that doesn't explain the loss of power. But the flash of the SES lamp and the power loss could be unrelated.
 
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Old Mar 9, 2011 | 10:43 PM
  #35  
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My truck just did the same thing as in that video while driving home tonight, only when it was at nearly full throttle going up a hill with a load of water in the back. I have an early 99 psd, just had the turbo replaced and a leaky pedistal. Does not seem to have as much power as it used to. Did you ever figure out what the problem was?
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 01:36 AM
  #36  
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SCROWLEY707
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From: Napa
well bigbadbob17,
I had a guy from ford check it, he hooked their laptop up to it and did a buzz test and it checked out ok, then he did some other stuff and I forget what the actual code is that he pulled but it had to do with something in cylinder #5, but he said it might be a phantom code, I since changed the CPS to the very dark blue one from the grey one, & put a new plug on the IPR cause my old one was soaked with oil, he was going to check it again but hasn't had time yet, but if I was you I would start with pulling the passenger valve cover and make sure the plug didn't wiggle loose, then get the dark blue cps if you have the grey one, I haven't noticed a diffrence but other people on this forum swear by it. my truck still runs like crap right now. I know what the problem is I just haven't isolated it yet, one of the cylinders is not producing any power I haven't figured it out yet I am kinda discouraged by the entire thing.
 
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Old Mar 10, 2011 | 04:40 PM
  #37  
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bigbadbob17
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Thanks Scrowley,
I am kind of having the same feeling about the truck these days. I just had the truck in for service and they put in a new turbo, fixed a turbo pedistal leak and replaced my leaky water pump. I live in northern alberta with no garage so there was no way I was fixing that in the -40 we had this winter. Before he returned the truck he told me it was throwing a cylinder #5 injector code, funny that you have the same thing. It always idles rough (you can hear the cylinder missing) and blows abit of smoke even when its warmed up but seems to smooth out once it goes above 1200 or so RPM. Also seems to lack a lot of power since i got it back from him, I am gona give him a shout and see if he has any ideas. I also was reading that it might be a fuel starvation issue, may try and change the filter if it warms up this week like its supposed to...
 
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Old Mar 11, 2011 | 08:36 AM
  #38  
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From: Virginia
Seems we've wandered off the original issue.

The fuel shutoff light comes on when the shutoff activates. It appears to be a mechanical switch sensing "jolt". When it does it cuts fuel and activates the light. It's a direct connection, not going through the computer.

If the light is consistent enough, full thottle always make it flash, holding down on the reset button should ensure that it's not a mechanical problem with the shutoff module on the passenger sidewall.

Or bypass the switch temporarily (not sure that rationale for it in the first place?)
 
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Old Mar 26, 2011 | 01:11 AM
  #39  
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SCROWLEY707
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From: Napa
OK, I had it at a buddy's shop all day,
We pulled the codes and it still had a injection #5 code from the contribution test.
We changed injector number 5 and it idles way better and when I drive it around it has way more power, and the fuel reset light doesn't flash anymore, so that problem is fixed so I pulled the codes again and it came up with injector#4. then I did it again and it came up with #2, #4, #8, then I did it again and it came up with #2 #4 #7, so they thought I may have a bad IDM, so we slapped a new one in and it was doing the same thing still, so I think it may be time for a new set of injectors. but at least I replaced the worst one for now.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2013 | 03:49 PM
  #40  
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Paul Farnham
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We just had this light on in the dash of our 1999 F350 2wd. The truck was rolled over a couple of weeks ago, went out for body repair, and came back with the fuel reset light on in the dash. Pull back the rubber (carpet) near the firewall on the passenger side floor to reveal the fuel pump cutout switch. Push in the button, and see if the light in the dash goes out. That's what fixed our, it was also running rough in the low rpm range, but seems okay now.
 
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