My check charging system light came on recently and i found that it was a diode in the alternator that went bad (aftermarket for stereo) I sent it back and had it fixed and tested. Put it in yesterday, now the dash lights flicker with Check Charging System. At first there was no light on at idle only when I rev it, but now it flashes at idle also. The dealer voided my warranty so Im kind of stuck fixing it myself. Thanks for the help

 

Just to make sure I've got the issues straight...the dealer voided the warranty because you've got an aftermarket stereo that is over loading your alternator? How many amps is the stock alternator? Do you have a cap?

 

I have an aftermarket alternator with 5 yellow tops. they voided the electrical system

 

I forgot to mention that while my alternator was getting fixed, i never disconnected the battery cables. I thinking it might be storing a code and also assuming that I dont have to go buy a scan tool to clear them but i can just unhook the battery cables for an hour and it will reset it. Any help or thoughts would be appreciated...thanks

 

Unhook the battery and step on the brake to fully discharge the system. Leave it for 15 minutes. If that doesn't work head to your local national auto chain like pepboys or autozone and they should be able to clear it for you.

5 Caps? Sounds like you've got a serious system. You're either an electrically cautious thumper or suffering from tinitus

 

not caps...BATTERIES lol. didnt need caps because I have 5 batteries. Its a show truck for the audio/video equipment. Im gonna try the battery thing first, but my luck it wont do anything nor will clearing the code with a code scanner. Its 80 for strauss to clear the codes so I figure I might as well buy one for 95 hahaha

 

i disconnected then reconnected the battery and its good now. Guess I just had to reset the ECU

 

You have FIVE Yellow top Optima batteries!!! Holy crap.

Is the OEM alternator still installed? I'm not a car sterio guy (am an electrical engineer though), but I can see a few issues here.

I bet the truck's extensive audio/electrical subsystems are "used" and tuned frequently whan the truck engine is not running. This results in five yellow tops all in need of charging current immediately upon engine startup. This stresses the OEM alternator with full current draw being required from it for the first several minutes of operation (and probably at low RPMs).

I suggest a few things:

1. Since most car stereo work happens when the truck is parked, I suggest feeding the five aux batteries from an external power source (effectively "plugging in" the truck when you are at home messing with the audio system). This relieves the truck of supporting the system MOST of the time (except when you are actually driving it). This is how it is done in the aircraft avionics world. What you are looking for is a properly sized AC-DC converter than can be integrated with the power distribution block for your audio system.

2. You should upgrade your alternator (and importatly assosiated wiring) to one that is rated to support the power in back. Low RPM performance of this new alternator is key, since in operation these trucks only see 1500-2500 rpm or so. This should NOT be plug and play as the OEM wiring and connectors are not rated to support higher current. As you know this can equal component failure (or even worse fire) as thing heat up.

3. In typical use, the way you listen to it, how much current is the circuit that the audio power amps is on pulling? Those 5 big batts make (effectively) a super-big capacitor, but there should still be a staedy state average current draw in continuous use.

4. I suspect this is a pretty serious audio system. And I expect that when the schematics for the audio system were drawn up that proper wiring gauges/types as well as connector ratings and such were evaluated?

Hope some of this helps you. Like I said I am not involved with car audio. I have helped others with their car audio related electrical problems, and EVERY time I was amazed at how poorly and unprofessionally the systems were integrated (electrically) into the host vehicle. It was typically my friends kids who thought they could just throw a couple high power amps and a pair of top end subwoofers into an enclosure and go. These same people wondered why they went through batteries every 4 months, why their alternator wiring harness had melted, and then someday why there was an unexplained fire in the engine bay - resulting in $5000+ damage to the vehicle.

 

All precautions were taken before installation began. A 200 amp circuit break was installed inline to the rear batteries in case an overload was present. The sound was tuned while the truck was running and has never been tuned in any other situation. It took around 2 hours of full volume for the rear three batteries to drain before it started to clip. I run an aftermarket alternator rated at 225 hot, but has been tested well beyond the 300 mark. Double 0 gauge wire was used throughout the truck with multiple circuit breaks to prevent any fires or electrical damage to the OEM wiring. I chose not to go with a capacitor because batteries are more efficient and less prone to "breaking" although I run a 15 farad in my acura with 2 yellow tops. The alternator was just old and the regulator went on it. I sent it out, got it repaired, and its all working properly now. The dealer voided my electrical warranty though...DONT GO TO LICCARDI FORD IN GREENBROOK NJ if you have other options. They seriously will lok for anything to void your truck and will be hesitant to work on your car/truck if you did not purchase the vehicle from them. They voided a friends Navigator suspension after he put rims on it.

 

That dealer sounds like a bunch of crooks. Your friend should contact Ford customer service and complain don't think they can void the suspension for putting different rims on.

 

Hes got money and is too busy to deal with that...his Navigator is actually the cheapest car he owns and he paid cash for it. He has Ferrari's, lambo's, Bentley's etc. I just thought it was wrong for the dealer to void the warranty for rims. They def. are crooks...some of the salesmen are nice, but the service department is horrendous. They are worst one by far that I have been to and they are a 5 star dealership. Maybe a 5 star if you buy the car from them, but I still cant see that happening. They were going to void my electrical system warranty for having an aftermarket car alarm installed lol....gave me a couple laughs when they told me.