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I'm trying to get the C6 out of my 78 F250 2wd and not having very much luck, I don't have a trans jack so I'm stuck using a floor jack. I've got everything off and it's ready to come out but I can't get it to clear the crossmember that the radius arms mount to. The top is hitting the firewall and and the bottom needs about 3/8" to clear the crossmember but I can't get it to move any further no matter what angle I try. I'm about ready to pull my hair out and I'm sure there's got to be something simple I'm overlooking. The worst part is I'm not even sure if I need to pull it. It's making a rattling/tapping noise that's definitely coming from the bellhousing, when I run it with the inspection plate off I can hear it the loudest. I thought maybe it had a cracked flexplate but that looks ok, so I don't know if its something with the converter or trans or what?? I'm hoping it's nothing with the engine, I didn't think any engine noise would be the loudest inside the bellhousing......... HELP!
On the older trucks 67-72 that i'm familar with auto trans trucks have the cross member bolted in. After unbolting take a big hammer and beat the snot out of it and it will move. Trucks with a manual trans had the cross member riveted in. Use some penetrating oil as they get rusted in big time over the years.
I went the easy way on the 68, with the engine out pulled the tranny out the front.
Last edited by "Beemer Nut"; Nov 8, 2006 at 07:54 PM.
I had a 76 f150 but i dont remember how the cross member came off but as for the noise, it could be the front pump and input shaft knocking together some how. But try unbolting the cross member an get the trans out. Take the converter off and turn the input shaft with your hand an see if the sound is made when you can just turn by hand. it might be the torque converter but try for the trans first. post what happens
Thanks... I've got the crossmember that the trans mount is on removed, I didn't think I had to remove the one that the radius arms are on too. That looks like a major pain. If I ever get it out I can check out the converter and trans.
Soak the heck out of the front X member with PB Blaster for a few days as there is a lot of surface area to rust up solid. Remove bolts then bang it out with a 3+ pound hammer. My tranny rebuilder hated Fords due to that X member, pound out pound in. Pull it with a tranny jack, when out be careful the converter doesn't fall out of the tranny. The Sunnex 1,200# tranny lift is the best purchase or tool I have purchased, works great with the 4x4 and transfer case as a unit. Too old and painful to do crazy tranny removals as when young, now I smile and pump the lever. (not that one!)
With the X member having the ends bent up at app 45 degrees and sandwitched between two metal brackets mounted on the frame how can spreading the frame help without adding more resistance and binding up the X member help? How can going from aligned to increased misalignment help with X member removal? Sorry that doesn't fly.
With the X member having the ends bent up at app 45 degrees and sandwitched between two metal brackets mounted on the frame how can spreading the frame help without adding more resistance and binding up the X member help? How can going from aligned to increased misalignment help with X member removal? Sorry that doesn't fly.
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Easy.
When the frame member is spread it relaxes the pressure on the cross member.
I don't mean spread it far enough for it to fall out. Just relax the pressure.
( quote )"With the X member having the ends bent up at app 45 degrees and sandwitched between two metal brackets mounted on the frame how can spreading the frame help without adding more resistance and binding up the X member help? How can going from aligned to increased misalignment help with X member removal? Sorry that doesn't fly." (end quote)
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Easy.
When the frame member is spread it relaxes the pressure on the cross member.
I don't mean spread it far enough for it to fall out. Just relax the pressure.
When I pulled my trans from a 73, I didn't need to jack the frame apart, but I recall the holes being difficult to align when I was putting it back together. Now that I have one of those tapered alignment tools, I am sure reinstalling that crossmember would be a lot easier!
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