Unfortunately the best I could do would be four days for this trip. Not enough time to really enjoy it. Besides, I'm not sure even if I'll be able to get the truck running good enough in time.

You said you would be heading through Monument Valley on this trip, what days do you think you will be there? If I can get the truck going I might try to tag along just for that section.

If I can't make it when do you think you might be heading to Monument again? As you know, I am a hugh western fan and I think John Ford was probably the greatest director of all time and the chance to see where so many great westerns were fillmed would be incredible!

 

The nearest we will be to Monument Valley is at the beginning of the trip when we are at Comb Ridge. So early would be good. You can drive to Bluff in one day but it is a long old drive and takes more out of me these days. Lots of construction on 160 and delays durring the day. Not so bad at night. As traffic is reduced.

Monument Valley is a highway drive. Gouldings is 45 miles west of Bluff. Valley of the Gods is 20 miles west of Bluff. Not sure what you are looking to do in Monument Valley. I have never taken a tour or done anything but drive through it on the highway and stop at Gouldings (where John Waynes cabin from She Wore A Yellow Ribbon is at). Valley of the Gods is a nice drive. Takes 1-2 hours depending on how much picture taking you do.

Could drive out Thursday the 12th. Then Friday morning we could go over to MV. Then hang with us on Friday afternoon/Saturday morning and you could do VOG Saturday afternoon. That would give you Sunday to drive back. I'm pretty sure you could do it in a car if you like. And we could find an open seat for you for the wheeling part on Friday afternoon/Saturday morning. If you or someone else can get the time off I have an open seat. Sure would enjoy the company and someone to share the driving and chores with.

Again Bluff has rooms and a private campground if you would like.

Not sure when I'll be back in Utah. Hopefully in the fall sometime if not earlier.

 

Looks like Jr. has a ticker problem. I've decided to try to get Green ready for the trip. I figure it'll be less work and less chance of problems.

 

need any help ley me know. I have a line on a good running 4.0 -if you are looking. ($400)

What are you needing for green?

 

Green needs a tranny. An auto would be nice. Doubler would be nicer. A lift and 33's would be great. A locker or two would make it a lot less work for me in Utah.

Thing is, I know where all those things are. Going to take a some mods to make it all work in Green though.

 

Sorry to hear that Jack. I hope you can Green going. Is that your Exploder? Can you stick that 4L in Jr and be done with it? Sorry but I don't have any spare driveline parts you could use. I have a spare 1354 tcase but I'll most likely need that, or parts from it soon. I won't know for sure until I get my doubler. Good luck!!

 

Lots of ways to go. Thing is I have run out of time with Jr. It still needs paint and cut out flares. Not enough time to do that and mess with an engine also. Green is a proven runner and is in the new issue of Off-Road magazine. Just has a week tranny is all. I was thinking about a 4" or 6" lift for it anyway. And I have another c-5 in the shed for Jr. when I get the time and money.

Green is the most complete of the two. Instead of pulling the 4.0 out of Green and having it set then try to hack into the wiring on Jr. to make it work, I think this is best. Going to take some mods though but nothing that could leave me stranded like a engine swap could. The gas tank skid plate will have to be modified if I use the doubler. This is a T&M doubler with an oil pump though. I like that for highway use. Not really sold on the splash oil new doublers out there for highway travel. Then I can make Jr. a short distance or trailer queen. The engine still starts and runs ok. Just when I get it up on the highway and start turning 2500 + rpms it starts making noise. So if I keep the rpms down and take care of it, it could last a while. Just not a good choice right now for 1000 miles on the highway in one day.

So I think that is the plan. Pull the tranny, radiator, suspension, and axles from Jr. and put them under Green. Then when I get around to it, use the other c-5 I have and one of the new doublers for Jr. I'd like to try Duffs new 6" kit in Jr. also. I have another 9" axle out back and I'll have the 35 from the front of Green. And just run Jr. in town or on a trailer till the engine gets too bad for even that.

 

Sounds like a lotta work. Hope you can make it happen quick w/out too much time consuming fabwork. Wish I could give you a hand.

 

Tunnel cover plates are the same. I checked that out. So I just remove the one in Jr. and put it in Green and my shifters are done. Need to drill two holes in the frame for a bracket for the tranny shifter. I ordered the correct fan shroud and 3.25" spring pads today. Found Skyjacker instructions that said it works on my 94 Sport. But I need to install the c-5 crossmember in addition to the Skyjacker one. At least one more hole to drill in the frame. Thing is what have they put in the frame rail where it needs to go.

The two big things that I can see causing a problem are if the Y-pipe clears the stock 84 tranny shifter assy, and if and how much we have to move the gas tank back to clear the t-case. The new C-5, T&M doubler, and T-case lenth will be just over 3" longer than stock.

My friend John that worked with me at the Off-Road shop is going to do the work. He has a place to work on it inside and I do not. So they both go to John's Friday. John was the mechanic at the off road shop for more years than I can count and if there is anyone I would trust for this it would be him. He turns wrenches at the shop 1/2 a block from my house. And he is fast. I will go up and help. Guess I need to pull the interriors back out so I can pull up the carpet. Green just has the small one core radiator as it was a stick shift. And no tranny cooler lines. Thats why the 2 core 4.0 radiator in Jr. needs to be used. And Tranny cooler lines and an external tranny cooler will need to be used. Don't know if I can reuse my old one or not.

 

Goodluck Jack to getting that all changed over.

 

Looks like I'll just do the tranny. Put a set of 31's on it. Class III hitch in the back. Maybe a no spin in the rear axle. Then go really slow and drag the hitch off stuff and hope I keep the bumper and sheet metal in good shape.

 

Can you stick a lockrite in the front? It's a cheap and easy mod.

 

Could. Yup we could. Not that easy to wrestle that third member up in there. Still remember a bit of trouble from last time. Have to pull both wheels and lock outs. Both calipers, rotors, spindles, axles, and the driveshaft. The remove the third member. Install the Lock Right. Clean the front of the third member and TTB housing. Then put everything back together.

Rear is so much easier. Remove the cover. Remove cross pin and c-clip. Axles slid out. Install Lock Right or as I have a Track Lock LS in stall the no spin thing. Most likely install axles with the no spin deal. Clean cover and back of housing. Way way easier to put the cover on with a bead of RTV than the 35 third member. Sides when you are climbing the rear dose a lot more pushing that the front can pull.

 

Au Contraire Jack. We've had the "Front vs rear locker if you can only have one" debate here locally and front won hands down. When you climb, if one tire loses traction, it'll spin and the one w/ traction will not pull, unless you're moving. Once you stop, you're only pushing from the rear, which sometimes is not enough. When I got my front locker in my D28 before I did my lift or axle swap it climbed way better. Anyway, Green has a D35 in front, right? You only have to pull the drivers side stuff. Then unbolt the pig and swing it out using the ujoint on the pass side axle as a pivot. Then slide it away from the pass axle. Pull the c clip if it has one. I never put any of mine back in. Almost impossible to get those clips in anyway w/ a lockrite. Done it w/ my 35 and 28. Saves lotsa time. Use a hyd or tranny jack if you need to. It's not that bad a job really, as long as you can install the locker.

 

But going up hill most of the weight is on the rear tires. So if you loose traction in the rear and it will not push and you have a front locker those tires do not have enough weight on them to pull you up they just spin. A locker does help in the front. I'm not saying it won't. And I have no problem running a locker in the front. Just have to see how much $$$'s I have in the budget.

We must be doing something wrong cause I have to pry the thrid member out everytime and it takes 3-4 trys and sometimes I even have to clean the semi fresh RTV off and re apply to get the third member back in. Don't think I could reinstall the passangers side axle correctly indexed and wrestle the third member in at the same time. I think we tried that and gave up. You must be a lot better than we are or have a secret your not telling.