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SD HPOP install write up. Part 1

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Old May 8, 2011 | 01:33 PM
  #46  
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Could be many things. Do you have a way to monitor icp pressure? By the way it can take a lil bit for it to fire after having the hpop off. Make sure you have good voltage also.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 01:15 PM
  #47  
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I followed this write up, got the HPOP off, re-sealed it and got everything back together. Before started right up, now it won't start.... any ideas. Ifilled fuel bowl back to top, and hpop reservoir is full. tried with icp plugged and unplugged.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 03:17 PM
  #48  
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How much have you cranked it? It can take quite a bit of 15-20 second cranking intervals to get it to fire. Are the batteries fully charged? What do you mean you resealed it, new orings? Did you plug the ipr back in?
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 03:18 PM
  #49  
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Mine took a long time to start, you have to bleed the system and the only way I know of is to crank on it.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 03:24 PM
  #50  
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yeah replaced all orings, and oring metal housing gasket as well. Cranked several times for 30-45 seconds, battery's started getting weak, so I've got them charging now. IPR is pluged in and intake is sucking air while cranking. I heard its hell bleeding air from fuel system. Shoud the ICP be unplugged? could it be air in the oil lines from when I had the hpop oil lines disconnected. I know I saw the tach jumping. Maybe Fuel has air in system? any other way of bleeding it besides cranking?
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 03:39 PM
  #51  
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You definitely have air in the oil lines and fuel lines, that is why it takes so much cranking. It will take sometimes upwards of 200 miles to get the air all worked out and starting back to normal. I'd leave everything plugged in, recheck your hpop res. and fuel bowl level, and keep cranking in short bursts and see what happens.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 03:42 PM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by hrod79
yeah replaced all orings, and oring metal housing gasket as well. Cranked several times for 30-45 seconds, battery's started getting weak, so I've got them charging now. IPR is pluged in and intake is sucking air while cranking. I heard its hell bleeding air from fuel system. Shoud the ICP be unplugged? could it be air in the oil lines from when I had the hpop oil lines disconnected. I know I saw the tach jumping. Maybe Fuel has air in system? any other way of bleeding it besides cranking?
The only way to bleed the HPO or fuel system is to crank it or run it.

How tight did you get the bolt for the pump gear? Might be worth checking that the HPOP gear is spinning and not slipping.

Double check that the IPR is plugged in and clipped. Make sure the tin nut is snug on the IPR also.

Make sure all connections for the fuel bowl harness are plugged in. If the big plug on the passenger side of the fuel bowl for the fuel bowl harness is not plugged in, the truck will not start.

Sometimes it helps to keep the injectors from firing while cranking the engine so they do not use any HPO and they do not fire the fuel. To do this you need to either unplug the CPS, unplug the UVCH, or take out fuse# 9 or #22 IIRC. Try this after you double and triple check that all your connections are plugged in and tight.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 03:45 PM
  #53  
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Ok 427 Fordman, thanks for the help. I'll finish getting batteries charged up and get to cranking some more. any idea on the ICP sensor? plugged or unplugged?
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 03:59 PM
  #54  
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Keep the ICP plugged in. Anything Travis mentioned ring a bell?? If not, keep at it.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 04:24 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by strokin'_tatsch
The only way to bleed the HPO or fuel system is to crank it or run it.

How tight did you get the bolt for the pump gear? Might be worth checking that the HPOP gear is spinning and not slipping.

Double check that the IPR is plugged in and clipped. Make sure the tin nut is snug on the IPR also.

Make sure all connections for the fuel bowl harness are plugged in. If the big plug on the passenger side of the fuel bowl for the fuel bowl harness is not plugged in, the truck will not start.

Sometimes it helps to keep the injectors from firing while cranking the engine so they do not use any HPO and they do not fire the fuel. To do this you need to either unplug the CPS, unplug the UVCH, or take out fuse# 9 or #22 IIRC. Try this after you double and triple check that all your connections are plugged in and tight.

Ok tatsch, I'll double check everything, I torqued the gear to 95ft/lbs as I've read in different forums. I'll unplug and replug everything and give it a shot. thanks
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 05:03 PM
  #56  
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Something to check:

I noticed when I put my IPR back together the wiring plug was sort of out of place and had been that way for a while. I was tough to get back on properly and I am sure it's still goobered a bit. If the IPR is not connected to the wiring properly, it will not start.
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 05:32 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by hrod79
I followed this write up, got the HPOP off, re-sealed it and got everything back together. Before started right up, now it won't start.... any ideas. Ifilled fuel bowl back to top, and hpop reservoir is full. tried with icp plugged and unplugged.
I cranked mine untill I finally Burnt the starter up.

So after replacing the starter I figured I better go double check everything.


Turned out that even though I had the bolt that holds the gear on tight. The gear itself was not actually seated properly on the shaft.

So I removed the bolt, realigned the pulley and revolted the pulley onto the shaft.....this time I could actually feel the pulley cinching down on the pump shaft with each turn on the ratchet. Whe. It was finally fully seated I toured the bolt to spec.

Fired right up.

Getting the pulley ( gear ) on the pump shaft was tricky on mine.

Worth checking out on yours

Camo
 
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Old Jul 22, 2011 | 05:59 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by pirate4x4_camo
I cranked mine untill I finally Burnt the starter up.

So after replacing the starter I figured I better go double check everything.


Turned out that even though I had the bolt that holds the gear on tight. The gear itself was not actually seated properly on the shaft.

So I removed the bolt, realigned the pulley and revolted the pulley onto the shaft.....this time I could actually feel the pulley cinching down on the pump shaft with each turn on the ratchet. Whe. It was finally fully seated I toured the bolt to spec.

Fired right up.

Getting the pulley ( gear ) on the pump shaft was tricky on mine.

Worth checking out on yours

Camo
This is why I say check the pump gear. I just worked on a truck 2 weeks ago where the guy didn't get the gear seated on the pump shaft correctly and it wouldn't start. Good advise Camo
 
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Old Jul 23, 2011 | 07:49 PM
  #59  
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Well, no luck. I tried cranking it several times for 30 seconds each time and didnt start. Today I took the reservoir off and checked the gear. It looked good, but I took the bolt out and checked it. It appeared that it was seated all the way. Never the less I seated it all the way again and torqued the bolt down to 95lbs again and put all back together again. Only problem is batteries are weak again. Charging them again and gonna try cranking on it tomorrow.
 
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Old Jul 25, 2011 | 02:56 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by hrod79
Well, no luck. I tried cranking it several times for 30 seconds each time and didnt start. Today I took the reservoir off and checked the gear. It looked good, but I took the bolt out and checked it. It appeared that it was seated all the way. Never the less I seated it all the way again and torqued the bolt down to 95lbs again and put all back together again. Only problem is batteries are weak again. Charging them again and gonna try cranking on it tomorrow.
Sounds to me like your going to need to build a mechanical HPO gauge to see what kind of pressure your getting while cranking. If everything is plugged in, it should start. What was it exactly that you did to the HPOP? You say resealed.. Did you mess with the "non-serviceable" plug? What exactly did you reseal?

Also, how old are your batteries? I worked on a truck about a month ago that wouldn't start after it got hot one day and wouldn't start cold either. I pulled the IPR and changed the o-rings thinking that's what caused it not to restart, but it still wouldn't start after I got done. The batteries were weak, but we had a charger on each battery. It sounded like it cranked pretty good, but still wouldn't start. Jumped it off with my truck and it started right up, no problem. So you might try jumping it. Could be weak batteries not getting charged enough and it won't spin fast enough.
 
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