SD HPOP install write up. Part 1
#61
07-25-2011, 04:59 PM
New User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: San Antonio, Tx
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
All I did was change the o-rings on the two HP oil fittings, the rear plug o-ring, and the main gasket between pump and housing. I took ipr off and checked seals, they were good so I put it back on. Batteries are charged and check out good. Also tried cranking with my other truck hooked in on jumper cables. What does the "non serviceable bolt" do? International has a kit to replace if leaking and so does "dieselsite.com"
#62
07-27-2011, 10:45 AM
New User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: San Antonio, Tx
Posts: 24
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#65
07-27-2011, 11:19 PM
Posting Guru
#66
09-06-2011, 11:56 PM
30. Put the two 10MM bolts through the pump to help hold the new gasket on.....ish. I found it tricky.
31. At this point, go back out and check the gear again to make sure it didn't fall, or won't fall just to ease your mind so you can put the oil pump on without worring about it. You'll need both hands to keep the gasket on, and the bolts in when your wigglin' that mother back in it's home. ( there is enough room in there to get the gear on once you have the pump bolts started so the gasket won't fall.
32. Now that the two 10MM bolts are started and you still have some play on the pump, stick your fingers in there and start working the gear back on. It doesn't have to be on all the way, just enough so you know it's on before you tighten the two bolts up. The 18MM bolt will take it the rest of the way.
33. Tighten the two 10MM bolts. Again, Cody's torque spec, or whatever you like.
34. Re install HP oil lines so no crap gets in the pump.
35. Install the IPR solinoid, spacer and nut. Not too tight, that nut is some flimsy crap. Make sure the connector is on top.
36. Install 18MM oil pump gear bolt and washer.....spacer.....WHATEVER you know what I mean. Again, very carefully, your in the home stretch, and loosing that washer would suck even more now!!!!! (Now this one I went beyond good and tight. Here you want to be grunting and seriously worrying about knuckle safety.) I think the real torque spec is like 160 ft/lbs. But I'm a calibrated wrenching machine, and I know it's good.
37. Clean cover mating surface and cover. Apply a 1MM thick bead of Diesel approved RTV (Ford actually sells this because normal RTV screws with the oil somehow) around the edge and reinstall cover.
38. Reinstall belt.
****FWIW this is where I stopped to replace all my soft fuel lines.****
1a. Pull the old petcock drain line off the hard line, cut a new piece to length. 5/16 line. Put it on the hard line and leave the hose clamp at the petcock end on, just tight enough to keep it there.
2a. That one fuel line you left on the pump is next. 3/8 line. Loosen the nut holding the hardlines on the head right below the A/C compressor. Just loose. Take a razor or sharp knife and cut that hose off. You should be able to work the new soft line in with the play you now have PLAYA!!!! Don't forget the hose clamps and tighten them up, and the nut too.
3a. Take the fuel bowl assembly in the shop and put in in the vice. GENTLY!!!! Just to hold it where you can work on it. Or just lay it on the bench, I don't care. You know what I mean. For those of you that don't know what I mean, your in the wrong neighborhood tonight son. Only men, and extremely cool chicks hang out here.
4a. Take the small piece of line off the back of the FPR (if it's not still on the hard line back in the truck. Cut a new one, put it back on. 5/16 line. Either back on the hard line like I did (Slid down the hard line as to not interfere with the bowl install) hose clamps just hanging on, ya feel me! Or back on the FPR, your choice.
5a. Cut and install the last two 3/8 lines at the bottom and middle of the fuel bowl. Tighten the clamps at the bowl, leave the clamps at the other end on, but up the line a little so the hoses go back on the pump easily. Put a dab of oil, or diesel in those two lines so they slide on the pump nipples REAL easy like........nipples.
6a. Take the bowl assembly back out to the truck. (somewhere in this step you need to plugh the IPR back in. I forgot and it was a pain to plug in after the fact). Put the line in the middle of the housing on the pump first, work it on slightly, and then manuver the bottom hose on real easy like with your Powerstroke playa skills. Don't tighten up the clamps just yet. Check your bolt holes and see if they are gonna line up. If you have to change hose length now's the time. If their good, tighten the clamps up. Reinstall heat shield.
7a. Take a pair of long needle nose pliers and work the petcock drain hose on. Tighten the clamp.
8a. Work your majic on the line off the back of the FPR!
********
39. Install the two fuel bowl hold down bolts.
40. Reinstall the intake. I took the rubber boot off the left side and put it on the plentum. and slid the intake on the right side while working the left side on. Make sure you didn't lose the turbo to intake O-ring/seal. Line up the turbo, tighten the turbo clamp, then make sure the rubber hoses/boots are tight as well. All 5/16 nut driver.
41. Fill HPOP reservoir with fresh oil to the top.
42. Crap!!!!dont' forget the connector at the left side of the fuel bowl. And check the other connectors too just to be safe.
43. Double check all the hoses etc.
44. Start that Cummins eatin', Duramax for snacks munchin' Powerstroke up!!!
****FWIW My truck cranked for about 10 solid seconds before it fired up and ran rough for a few seconds and settled down.***
45. Go check for leaks, HURRY!
No leaks? Good, You are a bad Powerstroke wrenchin' Mama Jamma!! Take it for a test drive. Come back, check for leaks again, put the motor cover on, YOUR DONE!!!
Okay, here's my findings. You can look at my sig and see what my truck has. (Now with one more mod to add to that list
) To tell you the truth I couldn't tell much difference. Maybe a little stronger, maybe. But I wasn't after a power increase here. I'm just prepping for my 160cc DIY-injectors I have waiting on the shelf. I HATE check engine lights, and this will hopefully keep that from coming on with the new injectors. Now, my truck has always started on the first hit. Very quick, I like that. But after turning it off and restarting it, it took longer. I was not happy about that. I always scoffed at the Super Dutys for taking so long to start. But after a long day and 140+ miles, it starts just like it always did, quick. So rest easy on that one. So gentlemen, and those extremely cool chicks, enjoy your job well done and get ready for more mods, cuz your ready for more fuel now. And if you already have bigger squirters, flip that CEL the bird and MASH ON THAT THROTTLE PEDAL!!!! THE RUBBERDUCK IS OUT!!!!!!!!
31. At this point, go back out and check the gear again to make sure it didn't fall, or won't fall just to ease your mind so you can put the oil pump on without worring about it. You'll need both hands to keep the gasket on, and the bolts in when your wigglin' that mother back in it's home. ( there is enough room in there to get the gear on once you have the pump bolts started so the gasket won't fall.
32. Now that the two 10MM bolts are started and you still have some play on the pump, stick your fingers in there and start working the gear back on. It doesn't have to be on all the way, just enough so you know it's on before you tighten the two bolts up. The 18MM bolt will take it the rest of the way.
33. Tighten the two 10MM bolts. Again, Cody's torque spec, or whatever you like.
34. Re install HP oil lines so no crap gets in the pump.
35. Install the IPR solinoid, spacer and nut. Not too tight, that nut is some flimsy crap. Make sure the connector is on top.
36. Install 18MM oil pump gear bolt and washer.....spacer.....WHATEVER you know what I mean. Again, very carefully, your in the home stretch, and loosing that washer would suck even more now!!!!! (Now this one I went beyond good and tight. Here you want to be grunting and seriously worrying about knuckle safety.) I think the real torque spec is like 160 ft/lbs. But I'm a calibrated wrenching machine, and I know it's good.
37. Clean cover mating surface and cover. Apply a 1MM thick bead of Diesel approved RTV (Ford actually sells this because normal RTV screws with the oil somehow) around the edge and reinstall cover.
38. Reinstall belt.
****FWIW this is where I stopped to replace all my soft fuel lines.****
1a. Pull the old petcock drain line off the hard line, cut a new piece to length. 5/16 line. Put it on the hard line and leave the hose clamp at the petcock end on, just tight enough to keep it there.
2a. That one fuel line you left on the pump is next. 3/8 line. Loosen the nut holding the hardlines on the head right below the A/C compressor. Just loose. Take a razor or sharp knife and cut that hose off. You should be able to work the new soft line in with the play you now have PLAYA!!!! Don't forget the hose clamps and tighten them up, and the nut too.
3a. Take the fuel bowl assembly in the shop and put in in the vice. GENTLY!!!! Just to hold it where you can work on it. Or just lay it on the bench, I don't care. You know what I mean. For those of you that don't know what I mean, your in the wrong neighborhood tonight son. Only men, and extremely cool chicks hang out here.
4a. Take the small piece of line off the back of the FPR (if it's not still on the hard line back in the truck. Cut a new one, put it back on. 5/16 line. Either back on the hard line like I did (Slid down the hard line as to not interfere with the bowl install) hose clamps just hanging on, ya feel me! Or back on the FPR, your choice.
5a. Cut and install the last two 3/8 lines at the bottom and middle of the fuel bowl. Tighten the clamps at the bowl, leave the clamps at the other end on, but up the line a little so the hoses go back on the pump easily. Put a dab of oil, or diesel in those two lines so they slide on the pump nipples REAL easy like........nipples.
6a. Take the bowl assembly back out to the truck. (somewhere in this step you need to plugh the IPR back in. I forgot and it was a pain to plug in after the fact). Put the line in the middle of the housing on the pump first, work it on slightly, and then manuver the bottom hose on real easy like with your Powerstroke playa skills. Don't tighten up the clamps just yet. Check your bolt holes and see if they are gonna line up. If you have to change hose length now's the time. If their good, tighten the clamps up. Reinstall heat shield.
7a. Take a pair of long needle nose pliers and work the petcock drain hose on. Tighten the clamp.
8a. Work your majic on the line off the back of the FPR!
********
39. Install the two fuel bowl hold down bolts.
40. Reinstall the intake. I took the rubber boot off the left side and put it on the plentum. and slid the intake on the right side while working the left side on. Make sure you didn't lose the turbo to intake O-ring/seal. Line up the turbo, tighten the turbo clamp, then make sure the rubber hoses/boots are tight as well. All 5/16 nut driver.
41. Fill HPOP reservoir with fresh oil to the top.
42. Crap!!!!dont' forget the connector at the left side of the fuel bowl. And check the other connectors too just to be safe.
43. Double check all the hoses etc.
44. Start that Cummins eatin', Duramax for snacks munchin' Powerstroke up!!!
****FWIW My truck cranked for about 10 solid seconds before it fired up and ran rough for a few seconds and settled down.***
45. Go check for leaks, HURRY!
No leaks? Good, You are a bad Powerstroke wrenchin' Mama Jamma!! Take it for a test drive. Come back, check for leaks again, put the motor cover on, YOUR DONE!!!
Okay, here's my findings. You can look at my sig and see what my truck has. (Now with one more mod to add to that list
) To tell you the truth I couldn't tell much difference. Maybe a little stronger, maybe. But I wasn't after a power increase here. I'm just prepping for my 160cc DIY-injectors I have waiting on the shelf. I HATE check engine lights, and this will hopefully keep that from coming on with the new injectors. Now, my truck has always started on the first hit. Very quick, I like that. But after turning it off and restarting it, it took longer. I was not happy about that. I always scoffed at the Super Dutys for taking so long to start. But after a long day and 140+ miles, it starts just like it always did, quick. So rest easy on that one. So gentlemen, and those extremely cool chicks, enjoy your job well done and get ready for more mods, cuz your ready for more fuel now. And if you already have bigger squirters, flip that CEL the bird and MASH ON THAT THROTTLE PEDAL!!!! THE RUBBERDUCK IS OUT!!!!!!!!thanks
#69
09-07-2011, 10:22 AM
Hotshot
You'll probably need to put a ratchet or breaker bar on the crank pulley to keep it from turning while you try to loosen that bolt.
#71
09-07-2011, 02:30 PM
Hotshot
#72
09-07-2011, 11:50 PM
just fyi guys i have the motor OUT of the truck ..... old motor died and found a good parts truck that was in a accident ( side swiped) ( or hope so @ least ) and got the motor(s) out and switching the new parts from old one to new one WHAT DID I GET MYSELF INTO ARRRGH!!!! ( EYES ROLLIN) ( from parts truck) i had put a lot of new parts on " old " motor before it blew up on me .... i'm married to this thing as my wife would say LOL!!! so appreciate any suggestions of things to do now that i have it out and easier to fix .......
#73
01-11-2013, 08:33 AM
Ok Im doing seals on the HPOP and have gottn to the part were I need to get the gear off. Im getting kinda nervious about it as to reading about it and it being a PAIN IN THE ACE HOLEIO
Sure wish there were pics of someone doing this lol. Might make me feel a little better about what I am doing.
Sure wish there were pics of someone doing this lol. Might make me feel a little better about what I am doing.
#75
01-11-2013, 10:35 AM
Postmaster
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Rockford IL
Posts: 2,622
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
You are doing the seals for your HPOP? Do you mean the gasket where the HPOP mounts to the engine?
I may be wrong but the other 'seals' are o-rings for the HPO line fittings and you dont have to remove the front cover/gear or HPOP. You just have to remove the fittings themselves...
But if you are taking that front cover off and removing the gear just make sure you have some way to keep the engine from turning over so you can get it off. And make sure the bolt or washer fall down inside there.
IDK if its the same as the F550...
I may be wrong but the other 'seals' are o-rings for the HPO line fittings and you dont have to remove the front cover/gear or HPOP. You just have to remove the fittings themselves...
But if you are taking that front cover off and removing the gear just make sure you have some way to keep the engine from turning over so you can get it off. And make sure the bolt or washer fall down inside there.
IDK if its the same as the F550...