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Does anybody use that aftermarket oil filter on there diesel? They claim that you can go 30k miles before changing the engine oil, and you can also use a separate one for your auto. tranny and increase the mileage on it as well. How much are they?
I use the FS-2500. Cost about $550 with the stainless braided lines. It's a very heavy, very high quality piece. From what I understand, the oil guard units are only around $330 or so and are also well made, but that's just second hand. I've never actually seen the oilguards.
I use the FS-2500. Cost about $550 with the stainless braided lines. It's a very heavy, very high quality piece. From what I understand, the oil guard units are only around $330 or so and are also well made, but that's just second hand. I've never actually seen the oilguards.
Do you recommend the stainless lines? Does the filter do want it's advertised to do? Do you recommend the filter, or is it a waste of money?
The FS-2500 and Oil-Guard are both by-pass filters that offer additional filtration at a level not possible from your internal oil filter. So these are not instead of but in addition to your stock oil filter.
I am a believer in by-pass filtration (only a small portion is filtered at a time so as not to starve the rest of the engine) from a longevity standpoint. And I will be adding one soon for my first oil change.
I went with the stainless braided lines simply because they run down underneath the truck where things flying up off the tires or when I'm on one of my unusual off road excursions could scrape or somehow damage a line. I don't worry about the stainless braided ones at all.
Originally Posted by 2006PSDSD
Does the filter do want it's advertised to do?
Yes, I believe it does. My oil still turns black, but not near as quick. When I change out the filter, there's alot in it too!
Originally Posted by 2006PSDSD
Do you recommend the filter, or is it a waste of money?
Yes, I think a by-pass filter will definetly extend the life of the engine. Soot is the number one enemy of a diesel engine and the by-pass filter will help keep the soot out of the oil.
Now, do I say that the FS-2500 is the only choice? No, I'm sure that the oil guard is every bit as good. I would still want stainless braided lines hooking it up since they also rout under the truck. Personally, I went with the FS-2500 because I thought it seemed like a heavier duty, more protected unit. The filter is encased in a heavy steel case and not exposed in any way. Which ever unit you choose should help protect the engine which is the really important issue anyway.
Do you like having the return line going in to the drain plug? I ask because the Oil-Guard return goes in the oil filler, high up on the engine and out of harm's way.
I don't have the oil filler available as I have a cross-over vent on mine to vent the heat out of the valve cover like the CCV on the drivers side. Also, my buddies and I didn't like the idea of the oil dumping in on top of the valves and having to drain back down through to get to the sump. That area already has oil flow stock.
As far as in harms way, the return plumbing hangs down about 3/4". Chances are if I hit it, I would have hit the oil pan itself.
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