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I thought I had a wheel cylinder leak on the rear of my truck, but it turns out to be an axle seal. The shoe is soaked with oil. Since both rear shoes have plenty of stopping left, would you replace the shoes as a pair or just the bad one?
John
jowilker
Club FTE since 01 01
66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night,
you can hear chevys rusting away.
Jowilker,
I'd be inclined to replace as a set. IMHO, I feel that brakes work as a set(i.e. rear or front) and that any deviation in brake shoe lining between the sets could cause a pulling sensation (left or right) towards the side with less brake shoe lining gone. While it is not practical to have front/rear brake sets stop with the same resistance(hello windshield!!)...if the rears are "out of synch" in the lining with each other than the pulling effect can happen due to grabbing power and lack of weight in the rear end of trucks.
Katydude
John, I'd check the wheel bearing real close and the axle vent system. Use emory on the seal seat and replace the shoes on both sides. I also resurface the drums. Gear oil will soak into cast iron and leach out when the drum is heated up under braking. May be over kill, but I am picky about brakes.
William in Atlanta
Well, ya know, brakes are the one thing that best to be very picky about.
-Andrew
f250_64(No Email Addresses In Posts!), same for yahoo messenger
Nothing, and I mean nothing, stirs the soul, saying I'm a bad **** like lettin'em rip with a window shaking, fuel gulpin, carbon monoxide belchin, attention gettin, V-oh my LORD!-8!
I went to the parts house yesterday afternoon and found that shoes are sold in pairs only, so that problem is solved. The old oil soaked shoe looked nearly new, so the question.
Skip from Houston recommended a product K2R, said it would suck the oil out of a happy meal. Anyone else used it?
Garbz, as long as I don't gotta spoon it, we'll be OK ;-)
Stockman says he is thinking about coming to Carlisle this summer maybe if I do the same, we could get together then. I have a 76 core support that he wants.
John
jowilker
Club FTE since 01 01
66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night,
you can hear chevys rusting away.
If you are really desperate to save those brake shoes, I have
taken a torch(propane will do) and slowly heated and burnt the
oil out of the shoe. You will know if you got it all because
if you don't, the wheel will grab and lock up when you hit the brakes.
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J--Didn't the parts store want the old shoes for the core? That's how I've always "disposed" of my old oil-soaked shoes. They give you your deposit back and it saves the hassle with the EPA too. :-)
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Thom, you are correct, but I only went with one side, so I paid the five bucks core charge that I can recover later.
I went to buy some new lines tonight, and was I surprized about lengths. The only way that you can make a job look good is to cut the lengths your self.
John
jowilker
Club FTE since 01 01
66 F100s
In the still cool hours of the night,
you can hear chevys rusting away.
[FONT COLOR="#0000ff" SIZE="3" FACE="Veranda"]
To keep the integrity of the "volume" of fluid for the brake system, you should custom length them to get the fit perfect, but I have always "gotten away" with the standard sizes, by creatively shaping the lines. I usually make a large sweeping bend away from the ubolts on each side and I go around the differential in a nice arc as well.
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John, I have washed the brakes with gasoline to remove oil and after they dried taken an acetylene torch and heated them till they dried out. Used to do this on big truck brakes when they had an axle shaft seal leak. Those brake shoes cost some bucks. Oh, by the way, after you dry them with the torch, take some 80 grit sand paper and rough them up a bit.
John, oz9609 is right on large trucks wheel seals blowing are common . We always clean the shoes and put them back on .And like he said rough them up a little . I know your shoes aren't as costly but every little bit helps.
Trouble