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My 97 f-150 4x4 4.6L with 200k miles has a spark knock. I had the Bosch platinum +4 plugs in it. And it pinged really bad with those. If I fill up with 93 octane it doesn't ping. I ran out all of my 93 and filled back up with 87 and it went back to knockin. Saturday I replaced the Bosch's with motocraft platinum plugs, put fuel injector cleaner in the tank, and now it does not ping nearly as bad, but it is still there, Especially around 3800+ RPM.
A chevy guy I work with told me about a knock sensor on the side of the engine block. I had never heard of this before and was woundering if this may have something to do with my ping? Could someone please fill me in on Knock Sensors?
My air filter is clean, i had a new fuel filter put in last year.
What can I do about my spark knock? I think my plug wires are fine they looked new when I bought the truck w/ 168k miles on it. How would I know if the plug wires needed to be changed?
Does the 4.6 call for plat plugs if not that may be the problem, as they hold more heat then the copper plugs. In my race motor I do run plat plugd but two steps cooler. The knock sensor pulls timing if you have what you call ping to save the motor and save you from melting a piston.I would say just put in the copper plugs I like the autolite plugs which is what I run in my supercharged motor, and they last me a full year of Drag racing that car. In my dirt race motor I run the plats like I said two steps cooler then stock and that took all the ping away for me when running the plats as thats not what the motor calls for.
Considerin I just spent the money for these plugs and my scratches and bruises are still not recovered... Is there any way of checkin to see if my engine wants plat plugs or not other than replacin these?
It uses double platinum plugs. These ignition systems do not like Bosch plugs. There are several threads about this.
Double platinum means that the electrode and the ground strap are platinum.
Reax can you go into greater detail with your recommendations? I do not have a tuner but I am looking to get one within the next year or so.
I guess I should add taht if I run 93 octane the knock goes away.
Higher octane will not detonate at the same temps lower octane fuels detonate at. To stop detonation you need to cool the combustion chamber and/or run higher octane fuels. If your problem is heat detonation and not spark advance, running a lower tstat will help the engine run cooler as will the evenflow coolant mod the mustangs use to cool the heads. Cooler spark plugs will retain less heat than a high heat range plug, and removes alittle more heat from the combustion chamber, you don't want to go too cold or you may have power loss issues. One or two steps colder shouldn't pose any problems though. Also lowering your compression ratio will reduce heat in the combustion chamber, as you compress anything it builds heat. Same theory applies to superchargers and why they don't run excessive boost or with stock heat range plugs.
On the converse, gas tuners build power my adding a little more fuel and advancing your spark timing. If your having detonation issue, you will want to sovle them before adding a hi-po tune.
How do I go about getting a colder thermostat? What do I need to do go into AutoZone tell them the issue and I want a colder thermostat? How does a thermostat work and how will that make the engine runcooler? What about removing my fan and getting electric fans to add power, will they maybe be more efficent and get the coolant cooler?
Also the ping is far more severe in 2nd gear WOT running down the interstate at 50-75. Than in 1st gear WOT.
Sounds like you need to drive the truck with a fuel pressure gauge hooked up to see if you are getting enough pressure under a load.
Also, driving it with a real data logger that will show actual PCM functions may help pinpoint the problem.
Cold also be EGR related. You may want to make sure the EGR is working properly and the ports are clean.
I chased a ping on my truck (admittedly highly modded) and it was a combination of plugs and EGR. And no, I dind't get an EGR code.
Cleaning your MAF is also easy and cheap to do, may be worth a try as well.
But the guys are right, these trucks don't seems to like Bosch plats.
I don't think a colder t-stat will matter. Once it opens, it's open. Your water temps under normal conditions are well above the t-stat opening range IMHO.
LxMan, while it is more severe at WOT it also does it if im cruisin at 60 and slightly mash the gas to accel without the truck downshifting it will ping. My uncle is the head of a local ford dealer service center I will see if he can do anything with what you are talking about.
My EGR ports are clean, I just took care of that problem 2k miles ago.
What kind of cleaner do you use to clean the MAF? I have read the thread on how to clean it, but I am unsure of what to use.
Non-residue electrical contact cleaner. Hypertech is the only company I am aware of offering a 160 thermostat. It opens at 160 degrees instead of 180, so the coolant starts circulating at 160 degrees instead of 180. Just a possiblity to look into, there is either a cam or crank position sensor, more than likely a cam position sensor that tells the ECM when to fire the coils. If it is failing it could be firing the coils too early causing the heads to be hotter than they should be.
Commonly CPS, but yes cam position sensor. I think you would need a dwell, similar to a diesel tach, to check it and more than likely an osliscope to actually tell if it's failing.
Using Vin W 4.6, Standard electronics list for 28.00 PN PC26. You'll probably pick it up for $25 local. Delco is alittle cheaper at $26 list pn 213-2430.
Is there just 2 of them? One on each side? I can't picture where on my engine where they are, unless they are on the back of the engine. Or hidden amoung other components.
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