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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 08:51 PM
  #16  
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I found this on modular depot:
# Disconnect cam position sensor located behind the power steering reservoir.

Thats on a romeo headed 4.6.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2006 | 08:52 PM
  #17  
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Sounds good, I'll check that out 2moro see how it looks.
This crossed my mind a lil while ago. I have had the fuel filter replaced within the last 20-30k miles. But what about the fuel injectors. I have noidea what there is to them, how they work or anything. But do they get in need of replacement after 200k miles? Well on second thought, if they weren't funcitoning correctly that isn't really gonna cause detonation is it? I dunno just another though.

Thanks
 

Last edited by zman764; Sep 28, 2006 at 09:52 PM.
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 02:10 AM
  #18  
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If they are clogged, you aren't getting enough fuel/will run lean. "If" being the operative word here. I don't know what the service life of injectors is, though.

I run FP60 in my gas, as an additive to (hopefully) keep my injectors clean. Does it work? I dunno. I've never had an injector problem, but many folks don't run any additives and have never had problems, either.

There are so many variables here...My next step would be to check your fuel pressure as LXman stated. That' and perhaps an injector cleaniing...I'm not certain which are the best/which ones work, though.
 

Last edited by pronstar; Sep 30, 2006 at 02:15 AM.
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 10:59 AM
  #19  
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I have ran a good amount of fuel system treatment in my truck since I have had it. I have actually done 200 gallons of gas with Lucas Fuel system treatment in it. I have talked to several local mechanics who all recommend it. How do I check the fuel pressure LXman? Is the tool expensive to buy? Or do I have to have it done somewhere?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 01:43 PM
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You get a little guage and mount it to the hood, hypertechs 4004 kit comes with a hose that will open the schrader valve in the test port on the fuel lines. look at the back of the motor and follow the fuel rails until you get to valve stem cap. Under that cap is the test port.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 08:36 PM
  #21  
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The computer in the truck doesn't monitor fuel pressure in any way? With all the other sensors it has, kinda seems like it would do that too. But ReAX earlier you said "Higher octane will not detonate at the same temps lower octane fuels detonate at." If that is true how come I can't just run 93 and get a tuner for the truck? How come I have been told to solve the problem before getting a tuner?

The 4004 kit doesn't say it works on our trucks. How do I know what the fuel pressure should be?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 08:56 PM
  #22  
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The tuners increase timing to make use of the higher octane. Increasing your timing will not do you any good if your already detonating.

The 4004 kit has a hose and guage. The tests ports are fairly standardized because of the valves, I don't know why think it will not work. More than likely they just haven't tested it. Fuel pressure on fords run low, I would guess somewhere between 30-40 psi.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 09:04 PM
  #23  
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There is a local shop that I trust alot. I actually brought the truck to them about a year ago and asked them to tell me what the noise was ( the spark knock). They had my truck about 2 hours called me, said the noise is a spark knock explained to me what it was, told me they checked my plugs and said they were not the cause of the problem and didn't need replacing, checked the airfilter said it was a little dirty but didn't need replacing (I have replaced it since then). They had my truck 2 hours tested it drove it looked at several things on it and charged me 0 dollars and didnt try to sell me anything, and told me to try higher octane gas.
Im thinkin of just lettin them have my truck for a lil while and figure it out.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 09:10 PM
  #24  
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There is just one, usually directly behind the plenum. Follow the tube above the injectors around behind the motor until you see what looks like a tire valve stem.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 07:11 PM
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Excessive combusion chamber deposits can also cause detonation. In which case running high-octane fuel may be the cheapest remedy.

Some fuel cleaners can be squirted directly into the spark-plug hole, left to soak for a while, then you just start it up. Potentially, they will dissolve the deposits. Fuel Power 60 says you can do this, though I've had no reason to try it. Seafoam is also said to do this (you squirt it into a vacuum line on a running engine) though I have no experience with it.

To me, it seems that these carbon deposits are pretty tough, and letting something soak on them for a while sounds like a better choice...in my opinion.
 

Last edited by pronstar; Oct 2, 2006 at 07:13 PM.
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 07:41 PM
  #26  
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Does much carbon really build up inside the cylenders though?
 
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 08:22 PM
  #27  
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That is an option, check if you have a motorvac place around town. It is supposed to be better than seafoam and seafoam is supposed to be pretty darn good.

Sure, and it doesn't take a whole lot to insolate your heads.
 
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 08:26 PM
  #28  
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motorvac? What do they do, how does it work?
 
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Old Oct 2, 2006 | 09:43 PM
  #29  
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I have only read about it, but they disconect your fuel lines and connect them to a machine that pumps a chemical through the motor. It is suposed to be the eqv of steam cleaning a carpet.
 
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Old Oct 3, 2006 | 01:07 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by zman764
Does much carbon really build up inside the cylenders though?
Supposedly, yes. But modern fuels are supposed to prevent this...?

But I've only seen it on old worn-out engines. And I've never personally had a problem that could be traced to it on anything I've ever owned.

But it sounds like you've tried everything else...and with high miles, the fix seems cheap enough to try...?
 
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