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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Warming up a PSD

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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 08:58 AM
  #31  
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F250tuff
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From: Douglas County, GA
The heater isn't standard, but many came with the option even if they ended up in the south. I believe it was a $35 option. Mine has it, but I don't anticipate have to use it much, if any at all. I guarantee you the first time I do use it, I'll head out of the drive way with the exentsion cord in tow.
 
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 09:41 AM
  #32  
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Ok,, another heater question.. At what temp should I use a block heater if I have one? Rotella 10w30 in the engine. thanks Jim

PS,, I can tow the extension cord with the best of em.!
 
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 01:07 PM
  #33  
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slowolf
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Read the owners manual diesel supplement about warming up the engine. They recommend a 15 second warm-up time and specify not increasing engine speed until oil pressure gauge indicates normal pressure.

Also here is a quote from the manual:

"Idling in cold weather will not heat the engine to it's normal operating temperature. Long periods of idling in cold weather can cause a buildup uf heavy deposits of carbon and rust on valve stems causing them to stick, which in turn, can cause valve train damage."
 

Last edited by slowolf; Sep 29, 2006 at 02:06 PM.
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Old Sep 29, 2006 | 02:21 PM
  #34  
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Tdusseau
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From: Atlanta GA
I like to use the old weather forcast to decide if I am going to use mine. Around 35-40 I will plug it in but only to help with defrosting the glass, instant heat is what I am after, could care less about the motor. It can handle cold starts and driving, michigan winters and a PSD proved that to me.

And as for the cord...I just drape mine over the mirror on the drivers door.
 
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Old Sep 30, 2006 | 09:12 PM
  #35  
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DelfinoTX
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Originally Posted by slowolf
Read the owners manual diesel supplement about warming up the engine. They recommend a 15 second warm-up time and specify not increasing engine speed until oil pressure gauge indicates normal pressure.

Also here is a quote from the manual:

"Idling in cold weather will not heat the engine to it's normal operating temperature. Long periods of idling in cold weather can cause a buildup uf heavy deposits of carbon and rust on valve stems causing them to stick, which in turn, can cause valve train damage."
Good find Slowolf! I new I had read something like that. Just couldn't remember where.
Of all places the Power Stroke suplement. And to think some guys "warming up" their diesel for 15 min or more. Again I can see a reason to warm up the truck if you are hauling young kids or the wife. But all us guys are tuff, right? We don't need a warm cab... Start it, pressure up, and lets roll.. - Delfino
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 07:01 AM
  #36  
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killaford
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all this talk and nobody mentions all the studies about cold start wear being 80% of all engine wear. why do they make prelubers and such? its a good idea to wait for the needle to start to move before the truck moves.


turn key, gear and go = an engine that knocks at 40,000.


as for not getting into the boost until warm, my truck needs about 10lbs. for it to get up to highway speeds until its all warmed up.


all you gear and go guys we'll see whos engines last more miles.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 07:18 AM
  #37  
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In the cold i always let all my vehicles warm up for a few minutes. Only makes sense to have a warm oil flowing than some cold goop.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 08:06 AM
  #38  
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F250Wheels
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Warm oil? I got bad news for you, 20 minuites at driving speed hardly warms the oil.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 08:42 AM
  #39  
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Me.. I just want the oil flowing. Once it is flowing in the engine,, time to roll.
Start,, wait 30 sec for pressure to be stable then drive on.

When it wears out I'll buy another one. Are we having fun. Jim
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 09:10 AM
  #40  
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From: Carhenge
Originally Posted by killaford
all this talk and nobody mentions all the studies about cold start wear being 80% of all engine wear. why do they make prelubers and such? its a good idea to wait for the needle to start to move before the truck moves.


turn key, gear and go = an engine that knocks at 40,000.


as for not getting into the boost until warm, my truck needs about 10lbs. for it to get up to highway speeds until its all warmed up.


all you gear and go guys we'll see whos engines last more miles.
That's good to know, my gear and go engine is running strong at 167,000. And here I always thought it made that knocking sound because it's a diesel.
Last oil analysis, at 10,000 on the oil, basically said whatever you're doing, keep doing it.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 09:45 AM
  #41  
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dapgar
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From: NJ
Originally Posted by slowolf
Read the owners manual diesel supplement about warming up the engine. They recommend a 15 second warm-up time and specify not increasing engine speed until oil pressure gauge indicates normal pressure.

Also here is a quote from the manual:

"Idling in cold weather will not heat the engine to it's normal operating temperature. Long periods of idling in cold weather can cause a buildup uf heavy deposits of carbon and rust on valve stems causing them to stick, which in turn, can cause valve train damage."
which is why guys are doing the high idle mod. i usually let mine warm up for a few minute, sometime longer if it's really cold. even if it's plugged in.
30 seconds and go is just asking for trouble later on.

i'm not going to spend that kind of money on a truck like this, and then say, well, when it wears out, i'll buy another one. i'd rather know i can do my best to make it last as long as possible.

if you do the high idle mod, which the engine in th cold already idles up a bit anyways, you won't have all those build ups.

why do big rigs idle for hours and hours on the sides of the road or in truck stops and their trucks go 700,000-1,000,000 miles!!!??

help warm the oil by letting it idle a bit, or buy a gasser. 15 qts of oil IS warm after 20 minutes of driving. in fact, it's on the hot side by then.
i've had to change my oil after i just drove out for a little while and when I drained it in the 97, it was already hot.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 09:58 AM
  #42  
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From: Carhenge
Originally Posted by dapgar
which is why guys are doing the high idle mod. i usually let mine warm up for a few minute, sometime longer if it's really cold. even if it's plugged in.
30 seconds and go is just asking for trouble later on.

i'm not going to spend that kind of money on a truck like this, and then say, well, when it wears out, i'll buy another one. i'd rather know i can do my best to make it last as long as possible.

if you do the high idle mod, which the engine in th cold already idles up a bit anyways, you won't have all those build ups.

why do big rigs idle for hours and hours on the sides of the road or in truck stops and their trucks go 700,000-1,000,000 miles!!!??

help warm the oil by letting it idle a bit, or buy a gasser. 15 qts of oil IS warm after 20 minutes of driving. in fact, it's on the hot side by then.
i've had to change my oil after i just drove out for a little while and when I drained it in the 97, it was already hot.
My used oil analysis indicates I have way below average wear metals with my gear and go approach. I'm a little slow, so can you explain exactly what it is I am damaging by not warming it up?
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 10:44 AM
  #43  
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Wink

From a guy that lives in the REAL cold (-40 winters here in Alberta)


I've always had a command start, even my old ones had the diesel option. I've always plugged in and let run for 5 mins at freezing, 10 minutes for anything that's -10C / 14F or lower... extremely cold -45 days it'll be 15-20 minutes.

I've worked in the oilpatch for over a decade... my last Dodge with the cummins 5.9 idled constantly on the lease site, and thru countless hours at highway rest-stops when it also had to double as my Hotel room. After 4 years, 750,000 kms, and God-Knows how many idling hours, truck was running almost as new.

What the "key&go" theory also fails to address is the other multiple moving components. Your AC compressor, power steering, alternator, etc etc etc. Even the Brake pedal can feel like cement when it's -40. Having Idling time helps warm up everything under the hood. (ever touched an exhaust manifold by mistake after it was "only idling"?) If you have you know what I'm talking about. And whoever made the comment that oil isn't even warm after 20 minutes of driving needs a reality check. Feel your oilpan after 5 minutes, it's hot.

Experience tells me that a gentle approach to starting is ALWAYS best... If you guys that start & drive have had lucky experiences.. I believe it is just that... "lucky"
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 11:09 AM
  #44  
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killaford
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Originally Posted by clux
And here I always thought it made that knocking sound because it's a diesel.


actually i was reefering to a gasser in an ss cr@pmaro.


anwhos cold operation is just that, cold operation. i sure a lot of engineers would have a good laugh on this 1.
 
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Old Oct 1, 2006 | 12:16 PM
  #45  
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blub
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From: NORCAL
I do 30 seconds then go, I keep it at or under 2000rpm. I can usually feel it running smoother and quieter after a mile or so and then the temp guage comes up. I will also add that it hasn't been under 50 degrees here since I've had the truck.
 
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