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We are having carb problems on my 67, and were hoping to find the original carb code for this engine. On it's 4th carb that I know of (over 20 years, 2 in the last year). Can't get it running right, and the local discount autoparts store is giving me lemons. If we have the Carb #, my mechanic can find the correct carb.
Welcmoe to FTE!
You might want to just rebuild the carb it has, as long as it doesn't have any cracks and is the right size.
On the side of the fuel bowl, there should be a number in a circle, yours should say 1.21 on it.
Unfortunately, it's not the correct one, since it was swapped out 2 years ago. The mechanic thinks the one on there now was from a 289 motor. That's what I get for buying from a discount auto parts store.
omw, Welcome to the Forum
I am running a 4 barrel Holley from a Pinto on my truck. The 2 barrel that came on it flowed about 500 cfmc this 4 barrel flows 390 cfms.
A carb is a carb is a carb, the engine doesn't care for what it was originaly installed. Any 400-600 cfm carb that will fit, should run the truck just fine.
You may need to have it tuned, adjusted, or rebuilt if it was not done correctly in the beginning, but one originally installed on a 289 should be fine. IMHO
John,
The mechanic has tuned it, plugs, condenser, points, vacum advance, and has ruled out just about everything but the Carb as being the problem. The carb had a cracked power valve, which he replaced, but it still runs poorly. He was talking to a carb shop, and everything they can figure about this discount auto parts store Holly carb is that there is something wrong in it, and the throat is too small for what should be there. So he would prefer to find and rebuild the correct carb for that motor, instead of pouring time and effort into this one. That is why I was looking to see if someone knew the original carb #, that came on this truck.
Ford_six, Unfortunately, the truck is at the mechanics at the moment, and I can't look at the number. Additionally this replacement carb has a bunch of vacum items on the back of it, that should not have been on a carb for a 67. (according to the mechanic)
omw, I gingerly want to suggest that you look for someone else to work on your carb. The things that you are reporting that he is saying just don't add up.
Carbs come with vacuum hose connectors to run things. Things like vacuum advance in the dist. When they are not needed for your application, you simply capp them off with a rubber hose cap. A capped off line shouldn't effect the operation of the carb.
Carbs mix fuel with air to be burned in the engine. As long as the air flow is in range the engine will run with any carb that will fit and bolt up. IMHO
There were a lot of variants of the 2100/2150 series, ranging from 190 to 424 cfm. They were used on everything from 2.8l v6s to 429 v8s, and many, many different calibrations for different applications. The carb can be wrong for the engine, case in point: When I got my 72, it ran helaciously rich, and wouldn't rev past about 3k. It had a 1.08 2150 Motorcraft carb, about 287cfm. This carb is for a 289. I installed a 1.23, 356cfm carb I had on hand that was for a 400, and it ran far better. Still not great, it was jetted a little lean for the 390, but made a night and day difference in it's operation.
Many modern mechanics don't understand these older carbureted trucks. I spent two days un-rigging what a shop had done to a 72 F350 with a 390 2BBL, and the owner couldn't believe I hadn't even replaced anything.
Another thing to consider, if the carb has any electrical connections on it at all, it's not a 2100 or 2150, and definetely not the right carb for that truck, it's a computer controlled carb from an 83-85 truck, and will never run right on that engine.
Last edited by Ford_Six; Sep 20, 2006 at 08:45 PM.
And the mechanic that is working on this is an old-timer that worked for Ford for years, and has worked on non-fuel injected stuff a lot. So I have faith in what he says.
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