1996 Econoline 150 with 110k miles - 5.8L

The van is running a little hotter than it should according to the guage. It runs at about 1/2 of guage. My AC is not getting very cold at idle (about 65 deg.) either. I changed the fan clutch and that has helped a little bit with the temp. It was running 1/2 to slightly more on the gauge, now it is running just below but varies some as the fan speed changes.

I opened up the radiator cap and the fluid does not look so good. It looks to me that there is sludge in the system somewhere. This was confirmed by a neighbor that is a former mechanic.

He suggested that I have it rodded out and flush the system.

I have a few questions.

A new radiator is $170 delivered to my door from radiatorbarn.com. Does it make since to have it rodded out if a new rad is this "cheap"? What does rodding out normally cost?

I am planning to change the thermostat and rad cap at the same time as preventitive maintenance.

Does it make since to change the water pump too while the system is opened up. A little checking shows a water pump at about $70.

Anything else, that I should consider changing out while doing this work?

If I put in a new rad and pump, I assume the system should still be drained and flushed. Would I do this with the old or new radiator in place or without?

Thanks for you help.

 

Check with a local radiator shop to see what they will charge for redoing the radiator and compare. Also, be sure you are comparing apples to apples when replacing the radiator. Make sure the tube row count is at least the same or more, what material is it made of, vertical flow versus horizontal, etc. If you are going to replace the water pump then remove the timing cover and replace the timing gears and chain as well. Some additional labor but worth it since the engine has over 100K on it. Replace all of the hoses and yes flush the system completely. I would do it with the new radiator in place using a good quality cooling system flush. Too much chance for old mineral buildup in the existing radiator to get loose and find its way into the engine cooling ports or the heater core. Given the condition of the existing coolant as you stated it, you probably have some bad stuff that already has found its way into the heater core and engine. You might want to backflush the heater core separately but be careful to not overpressurize it since the seams are soft and will open up easily. AC not cooling well is indicative of poor airflow over the condensor, assuming the AC system is OK. Get yourself some AC coil cleaner and clean the condensor, tranny cooler, etc., to increase airflow and overall cooling efficiency.

John

 

Here are the specs on the radiator. It says it is metal.
Core Size: 19-1/4 X 25-3/4 X 1-1/8
Inlet Header: 2-13/16 X 26-5/8
Outlet Header: 2-13/16 X 26-5/8
Inlet Connection: 1-1/2 PASSENGERS SIDE
Outlet Connection: 1-3/4 DRIVERS SIDE
Transmission Oil Cooler: YES
Engine Oil Cooler: NONE
Mounting: DOUBLE FLANGE
Notes: TWO ROW, TURBULATED TUBE, ALL METAL
$158.13 1996 FORD E-150 radiator

 

See how much the three row would cost as compared to the two. Also, verify how many rows your present radiator has by removing the radiator cap, drain the radiator down until you can see the top of the tube row and count how many tube rows you have front to back, not side to side. You need to replace with at least the same size radiator, better if you can go more rows since it will increase cooling capacity. You might want to check to see what a good radiator shop wants for a replacement radiator. I have done that and told them what my cost would be on one from the internet and they matched it. I looked on that site, radiatorbarn.com and found a three row for an E-350 460 that would probably fit but costs $286. You would need different hoses to match it up but that probably wouldn't be a problem. Mounting might be a little different but again probably could be done. How long are you going to keep the van and do you use it for towing? Has the van always tended to run hot? You might check with FoMoCo to see what radiator options they have for that van, that might give you some idea of what's available. Again, this depends on what you use the van for and if you have had adequate engine cooling in the past.

John

 

I just purchased the van about 1,000k miles ago. I plan to keep it for at least 3-4 years at about average yearly usage.

Is there any other way to know how many rows it will have without draining it.

I just called a radiator shop. They will test it/ take it apart/clean it, for $59 in about 1/2 day. Tough part on this is that my primary family vehicle would be out of commission for at least 2.5 days. I would have remove it on a Thur night, take it in on Fri and then replace it on Sat and since I am considering the pump, timing chain, hoses, etc that would be probably close to a all day job.

I found a 3 row for $214 from radiatorexpress.com:
1996 FORD E-150 ECONOLINE - 5.8 liter V8 RADIATOR Name Brand 3-Row Upgrade
This OEM quality replacement radiator comes to you factory direct from 1 of 48 Radiator Express locations. It is guaranteed to fit and adhere to the standards for your specific vehicle. It comes with our Lifetime Express Warranty and is a great internet buy!
CORE SIZE: 19-1/4 x 26-1/4 x 2
NOTE: Works for auto and manual applications.

Thanks for your suggestions.

 

Just spoke to another shop and he said he is "very familiar with this rad" and it cannot be rodded out since it has "dimples" in it. So he can only flush it. He said a replacement is $175. Does this make since?

 

You will have spent more for the increased cooling capacity but it is worth it, especially if you intend to keep the van. I pulled the radiator, replaced the pump, timing chain and gears on an E-250 460 in about 8 hours. a good saturday job! The three row costs more but in the long run the extra cooling capacity will be worth it.

Good luck!

John

 

Another shop confirmed that some cannot be rodded due to the dimples but he can soak it, flush it, clean it for $35.

Any idea what the chances are that doing the above will not be enough?

 

$175 for a two row or $214 for a three row, the choice for me is an easy one. See if that shop will sell you a three row for close to what you can get it at from radiatorexpress.

John

 

What usually happens with a radiator shop cleaning the core is that they will come back and tell you that the core needs to replaced so you wind up basically buying a new radiator. Mineral buildup over time eats the tube surfaces and doesn't leave much metal and the radiator will develop a leak. Unless he gurantees that the core is good when he is done, which I would be surprised if he did, you are taking a big risk that you will be replacing that radiator in short order.

John

 

John,

I was thinking the same thing in regard to the shop cleaning /testing then saying it needs to be replaced then I have waisted time and am in a bind with choices to save just a little over $100 in the best case scenario. It just isn't worth it.

I appreciate your help.