bought the bulk pack to use when i install my new complete system. Defintly doing the doors first as you can watch the inside of the door shake just with the truck ideling lol. Basicaly i was wondering if theres any tips for installing this stuff as ive never used it beforre.

 

Just make sure the surface is clean and free of grease, dirt, etc. I used rubbing alcohol to remove the adhesive that the door liner left behind. It worked ok and its all I had. Something stronger may be needed, just as long as it doesn't leave a residue. Acetone maybe? Some have suggested nitrile gloves, as the aluminum on the mat can cut your fingers up. I also used the rubber dynamat roller instead of the wooden one. Mixed feelings on the roller. Something a little harder will be needed. You could use just about any thing hard and contoured, as long as you dont gouge the mat.
Its kinda long and tedious, so turn up the tunes and have a beer.

 

well honestly the doors have nothing like glue on them cause they where replaced. so no glue etc, but the doors do have undercoating sprayed on the outer part of the shell from the inside

 

Depending on your vehicles age, sand, spray with rust preventing paint and replace the carpet. I did that for my 89, pulled the carpet, wire brushed the loose rust, scuffed the rest of the floor and sprayed it with rustoleum flat black before I layed the dynomat. Then I installed a new nifty proline carpet, and new seats and console.

Dynomat has a roller tool, I imagine it can be mimiced. I wish I had one when I did the doors in my 02. Also, when I did my 89, I learned the roof needs attention two. I have done the roof of my 02 already. Dynamat makes a product called tacmat. I applied enough dynamat xtreme to cover a little better than half of the roof and then covered the whole roof with tacmat. When I get up the nerve to do pull the seats in my 02, I will cover it with xtreme and then tacmat.

On the doors, clean them really good with alcohol and if you have any super77 adheasive.

 

Leave the Dynamat in the sun for an hour before the install to make it softer & easier to work with.

 

You paid all that money for that mat and you have to do stuff to it besides peel and stick?

wow.

My Second Skin Damplifier went on a semi-dirty door on a cool day (~70 degrees) with nothing but a $1 plastic walpaper roller from lowes and a utility knife and has held up to a summer of Florida heat with out a hint of flinching. In testing, second skin held equally as well as Dynamat Xtreme in a heat test (500*+). It is also Butly Bassed and has similar mass properties.

Because Dynamat Xtreme is Butyl bassed I doubt heating it will make it any more plyable and it shouldnt make it stick any better. A roller is a roller, dont spend $15 on one that has dynamat pritned on it (though to get a good one) you already payed an extra $2 a square foot to have the Dynamat name printed on your dampener.

Cuts are going to happen when working with deadener, but they are just a bunch of paper cuts with scars that fade, but never go away. So suck it up.

I dont know how much you have but the doors are deffanitely the place to start. Do two layres on the door skin and two on the interior side of the door. Each door will take 20-24sqft. The back wall is your next best place to start on most trucks, Two layres there as well. That will take 20-30sqft. Then the floor, You only need one layre on the floor but 2 is a good idea on the firewall. Past that you just have the roof.

Just doing the doors and back walls will show a big drop in ambient noise inside the cab. If you dont have enough to do that (60-80sqft) then use what you do have then pick up some second skin or RAAmatt.

Secondskinaudio.com

 

i have 36 sq ft. 9 sheets of 18" x 32"

 

I'd start with the doors, that will proabbly use up most with enough for 1 layre on the back wall. Then buy a roll of RAAMatt (80sqft for ~$120 if I remember right. Butyl bassed and similar mass to Dynamat Xtreme) or Second Skin Damplifier Pro.

 

okay thanks allot

 

I did my whole cab(01, supercab) in Fatmat(excluding the roof and behind the dash).

All I can say is WOW!!! What a difference it made. I think any product you use will improve sound quality as well as insulate the cab in summer and winter- reduces drafts also.

Hints:

The roller is important- I broke the cheap one that came with the kit. Looked around the garage and found a heavy duty one my Dad used back when he owned a printing shop- much more durable and I found I could roll without worry about breaking it. Makes it go faster.

As far as the warming it in the sun suggestion- It certainly makes the product more plyable. However I found that using it cold yielded better results. When it's really warm it sticks and sticks really well as soon as it touches the surface. Being colder allowed it to be pulled up and readjusted if it didn't get laid straight. Its pretty much a permanent product once it's been rolled on- cold or hot. I found this out as the warm day turned to cold night and was still working on the project.

Use Blue painters tape- when I first started I was concerned about covering up the holes for the wiring harness, seat bolts, interior panels. So I would cut the holes out as soon as I covered them. Remember the "permanent" comment. I spent more time cutting 1/4 inch holes out than laying the piece down. Finally figured out to tape over all the holes. As I lay the material just press hard over the taped holes so they leave an impression in the product- this way it's easy to find the hole. Then after your done with the section, or whole job just go back with a razor knife and cut a square out around the impression. The product pops right out without any effort at all- do all the holes first no matter if they are currently used or not, it will take some extra time in the beginning but you get all the time + some back as you install the product.

Gloves- I used mechanics gloves- It's not the product that will cause the major slices- it's the really sharp edges of the sheet metal- especially as you reach into the door frame. I got tired of seeing blood drip. Also lets you press harder in the spots where the roller doesn't fit without getting really sore hands or even blisters.

Double and triple up the layering. You can knock on the section you're doing and hear some areas allow more sound through. Major culprit is the back wall behind the seats. I took about 3 weeks to do mine- wasn't in a hurry and didn't have all day every weekend to work on it- Probably spent 20-30 hours over the course of that those 3 weeks. As I drove around without the interior panels on I could hear areas that needed extra attention. Note: if you turn the key on without the passenger seat connected(airbag connection) you're airbag light will flash for about 2-3 weeks. Disconnecting the battery, even over night didn't reset it. I read somewhere the truck needed to cycle(cold starts) a few times to reset. I was just about ready to take it to the dealer when the light stopped flashing.

On large flat areas you can double up with a thin(1/16") rubber mat like product- I ordered a couple large (3'x4') from McMaster-Carr, but Home depot, Orchard supply had similar stuff. It didn't stick nearly as well but since it was used only on the flat bottom surface I wasn't worried about it falling off. The rubber mat is way cheaper than the FatMat/ Dynamat stuff. I put the fatMat down first and then covered it with the rubber mat in the front of the cab

On the doors- make sure you don't cover up the drain holes at the bottom. Also you may want to use a rubber undercoating product on the inside- getting the mat product in there is more difficult. Make sure you mask & tape up everything as the stuff gets everywhere- literally. Get the paintable undercoating as is dries out completely- the other stuff remains an oily mess. It will smell but that goes away after a week or two. If you do use the rubber undercoating wrap , in painters tapes, any of the electrical connectors that might get sprayed. Anyone needed access to that connector will really appreciate it. I did go overbaord a little and once concerned the dealer/ mechanic would charge an "aggravation" surcharge to work on the vehicle if they had to hassle with remove this add-on product.

Get the proper tool to remove the interior pieces- $10 and you can use it in the future. It is way less expensive than replacing plastic pieces. Sometimes the clip holding the plastic piece in is stronger than the plastic. I did have to replace one of the pillar pieces and a couple clips. Clips were cheap. Pillar was $30.

Spend some time and you'll be really impressed. Hope this helps.

Good luck
Tim

 

On the bolt holes, I laid new carpet at the same time and used the same method. Tape will certainly help clean up. Put the bolts back in the holes before you lay the mat down and then cut X over the bolt heads and press down around it. It's not the prettiest method, but it puts holes in the right spot everytime, also works like threadlocker when done.

 

Realistically... isn't double layering (20sq/ft per door) is a little overkill?

I've used 20sq/ft dyna extreme on 2 doors AND the rear wall w/ excellent results.