Well, with the way gas prices are going and my job, it looks like the ranger is going to get parked for a while. I have decided to start car pooling a lot more which should help. I have an enclosed garage to store the Ranger in, so it won't be out in the elements. I topped off the fuel and was wondering what else I should do... many thanks!!

 

If you don't have pets or your pets don't have access to the garage, decon would be a good suggestion both under the hood, in the cab, and around the garage. It seems the #1 killer of stored vehicles is mice, so keeping them out is not a bad idea. I would also grease everything you can, and put some type of gas stabilizer in the fuel and run it long enough to get it through the fuel system to keep it from varnishing htings up. Take the battery out place on wood and make sure it's fully charged (do NOT set it on concrete that will kill it). Good coat of wax won't hurt either.

 

How long do you expect the truck to be sitting? I've parked my Ranger for a month or two at a time in the summer, once inside, once outside, and once for a few months in the winter with no more preparation than filling the gas tank. If it's going to be more than a few months, though, you probably should do more...

 

You must have the 4.0 because Rangers get great gas mileage for the most part. I would take it for a short run once a week and keep the bed empty of anything real heavy while parked for long periods.

 

Short drive's are worse for the truck than letting it sit, stabilize fuel, take battery in house or if it's an attached garage just disconnect the negative cable. Drier sheets on the floor helps keep a musty smell away and will deter some pests.(mothballs are best)
I agree w/monster baby, to lube everything poss

 

You guys don't drain the motor oil, coolant or driveline fluids? Actually, I understand all but not draining the motor oil these days. With coolant, the freeze plugs need to pulled & stuff. Probably not practical. Especially when using the new mixes. But the oil?

 

What benefit could come from draining the oil and coolant. The coolant has anti-corrosion proporties in it and draining it from the engine is not only a waste of coolant, but would be detrimental to the metal parts of the cooling system. As long as the coolant is clean and the freezing point is below the temperature the truck will see in storage. What exactly can be gained from daining the oil??????????????

 

The seals (gaskets) break down over time when the oil is stagnant. Rear main seal can be intolerable after a few months if it's already a bother. Well, actually the folks I talk with usually say the seals SHRINK. The factories are making some of these seals better and I haven't really worked that much with vehicles newer than 1991. Not sure how good they're getting now. I'll swear some are getting worse with free trade pacts and Chinese stuff, though.

 

This irks the bit a' tree hugger in me, but pulling the coolant & going to a fresh, thicker mix could be great for storage, & make sure to use distilled water. Should go back to leaner mix to run it again. A year of storage should be entirely possible these days. Synth oil might also be a new ballgame. Come on gurus! I want to hear more. These things burn away at me all the time. I have a project Nissan Pulsar in the garage. Had other projects in the past, too. The books seem useless & the googled sites are often revealed to be by some snot who thinks running an e-fan full-time is a great idea (no thermo controller). No offense intended anyone! I just gathered a huge amount of sources together on that subject. Kinda need it for my old jalopy.

 

The engine oil can be as stagnant as it wants, it's not touching the seals, it's all down in the oil pan, old oil can rot a oil pan due to the acidity, but it's not in contact with any seals or gaskets. If you keep your coolant chaged at specified service intervals there is nothing to worry about.

 

Actually I wouldn't drain the oil unless your talking years of storage on a classic car that you have bought as an investment. Best thing you can do is once a month take it out and drive it 10 miles or so making sure it gets good and warmed up to evaporate any moisture that condensates in the oil and other places. atleast fire up the engine and let it run for awhile this will keep the seals and metal parts lubed.
On my race engines stored over the winter, I drain the gas fire it up until it dies, then I refill the tank with about a gallon of ATF and run that through the fuel lines and pump, I also pull the plugs and a few squirts of ATF into each cylinder then turn it over a couple times to spread it out into the rings. I will also change the oil and using a preluber will pump the fresh oil through the system (note I don't fill it with the full 10 quarts usually just 5 qts, and it's synthetic oil) I then pull the valve covers and back all the rockers off the release the preasure on teh valve springs so they don't loose tension from bieng compressed all winter. I then pull both batteries and put them onto a trickle charger and make sure they are at full charge for storage. I also plug both headers so nothing can crawl in there and make a nest, and put a package of decon under the hood, and in the cab and cover with a tarp so if birds get into the shop they don't poop on the truck (bird poop is highly corrosive and can eat through the paint over time), The coolant I test to make sure it's ok and leave it in.

 

Truck has the gold antifreeze so I don't think that needs changing for 3 years yet. Well, gas prices are starting to go down a few cents, but it is better just to just park 'er for a while. I have access to a garage that doesn't go below freezing. It will be in storage in the garage until spring time. I MAY drive it once a week or so...thanks for the help. I am still getting mixed reviews on what to do with the fluids. Axles and tranny are good (i hope). Oil is a toss up, but coolant is fine. What about small things like washer fluid?? It's a type of alcohol so won't that eat through the lines?? I will leave the vent on during storage to prevent mustiness....

 

Dot 3 fluid(s) are the single-most corrosive fluids in these things and easily absorb water, but a few months of sitting shouldn't make much difference. Actually, we're supposed to flush them once a year regardless.

 

Washer fluid is methonal, but the lines are made to withstand it. basically I would not worry about it too much driving it once a week or atleast once a month will make it all good. The one major thing I can think of is the gas, if you put ethonal blend in it, run tha tout and put in gas without the ethonal if you can get it as it will absorb water. Putting staybil in won't hurt just don't get carried away.

 

As long as it is driven for like 20 min a month and tank is topped off, do I run much water absoprtion problems?? The tank is poly as opposed to metal good thing....