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Where to start, about a week or so ago. My CE light started flash when driveing. It would come on, stay on for about 30 sec. then go off. It keeps on doing this. I pulled the code and I believe it was 332=insufficient EGR flow detected. Keeps doing this. Now for the more recent. I went to leave the store one day, went to start it up and it just cranked. Switched to front tank and she started right up. (Thank god for the front tank.) So I went home and pulled the codes again, also tested to hear if the rear tank primed, it didn't. code is 542=fuel pump secondary circuit failure: PCM to ground. So picked up a fuel pump, which i haven't installed yet. But strange is, for the heck of it, i went to start it yesterday, I turned on the rear tank and the pumped primed and started the truck. But now is dead again.
As for the EGR thing, I replaced EGR, sensor, selenoid, and relay in the spring. I have not checked for any vacuum leaks yet.
My question is, Can both of these be related into some other issue. Also the fuel pump, is it bad or does it sound like just a wire issue.
Oh yeah, the CE light is staying on more often now.
Taking a guess I would say your rear fuel pump is fine. The PCM does not know if the pumps run or not, it just checks the output of the fuel pump relay to see if there is power there or not. It is saying it did not see any when it checked so first I would swap the fuel pump and PCM power relays out with the marker lamp and horn relays.
See if that takes care of it if it does you may want to buy new ones to replace them.
If it now runs without the fuel code but the rear pump still gives trouble I would look at the fuel selector switch first before pulling the bed off and changing the pump.
Originally Posted by RJPstruck
My question is, Can both of these be related into some other issue. Also the fuel pump, is it bad or does it sound like just a wire issue.
Yes they can but that would mean a bad PCM and I do not know if we want to go there yet.
looking at wire diagram, it looks to me like this.
Power goes to the relay, then to inertia fuel shutoff, then to the tank selector, and that is where it splits power to the rear or the front.
My guess would be to pull the selector switch and test to see continuity across power feed to rear terminal.
Now, if it was the relay, don't you think the front pump wouldn't work if the back isn't? Just trying to run it by ya, before I tear into today.
Thanks
Also you can check the rear pump by selecting it with fuel pump selector switch, ground pin#6 of the DLC connector and turn the key to the run position. If it runs then you can put a gauge on the fuel manifold and see if you are getting the 45psi fuel pressure.
This will bypass the PCM and PCM relay and will only use the fuel pump relay, selector switch, FPR, fuel filter and the fuel pump.
Here are diagrams of your DLC connector (wire colors wrong for yours) fuel system.
looking at wire diagram, it looks to me like this.
Power goes to the relay, then to inertia fuel shutoff, then to the tank selector, and that is where it splits power to the rear or the front.
My guess would be to pull the selector switch and test to see continuity across power feed to rear terminal.
Now, if it was the relay, don't you think the front pump wouldn't work if the back isn't? Just trying to run it by ya, before I tear into today.
Thanks
Normally yes but a relay can have power through its contacts one time and not the next time and since it only takes a minute to swap them and you already have them why not. Also the code you gave is a check on power before it gets to the selector switch.
Some thing just hit me, if the rear pump is drawing too much power (amps) there could be a voltage drop across the fuel pump relay or fuse link and that could give this code.
ya know there is one more issue that I have failed to mention, or should say for got about, I turn the key to start and you hear the relays, pump primes, selenoid. I thought it was my starter, or selenoid starting to fail, because it doesn't crank over.
This doesn't happen all the time, only intermittently. If you turn the key on off, repeatedly it does eventually crank over and starts. But this doesn't happen every time. Only once in awhile. Again, I don't know if this can be related or not. Just thought I should put in here, because it is a reacuring problem.
ya know there is one more issue that I have failed to mention, or should say for got about, I turn the key to start and you hear the relays, pump primes, selenoid. I thought it was my starter, or selenoid starting to fail, because it doesn't crank over.
This doesn't happen all the time, only intermittently. If you turn the key on off, repeatedly it does eventually crank over and starts. But this doesn't happen every time. Only once in awhile. Again, I don't know if this can be related or not. Just thought I should put in here, because it is a reacuring problem.
I do not think it is related but I would check the spade connector down under on the starter solenoid and put a new one on. This is on the other end of the small wire coming from you starter relay on the fender.
ok, did final testing on fuel system yesterday, relay is good, dash switch is good. power to the pump, but pump didn't work. Replace the pump this evening, and that is done. Fuel is now pumping from the rear tank. Tommorrow I am gonna fill the tanks, and then onto addressing the EGR code.
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