To start, I got a 92 F150 5.8l Windsor 4x4....

About 2 months ago this started, I drove the truck to work, no issues, when I went out for lunch, started truck fine, but as I went to take off, it had almost no power at all, and shook really bad... ended up dieing on me twice after stop signs/lights when taking off. When giving it gas, it just sounded like it was drowning, no power at all, sort of like when you are geared way too high in a manual, trying to take off in 5th gear.... anyways made it home, did nothing to it, just parked... next morning I went out and started, ran 100% fine as if nothing had happened, so I figured bad fuel or something...

Well about a month ago, it did the exact same thing, same basic scenario... ran like crap, made it home, started it next day, and walla its fine...

Well now this time though, as of last Thursday (Jun 10th) it did it again, after dropping someone off, made it back to work, killed it... about 2 hours later hopped back in, started up, and started acting up again. But this time it has yet to go away! It has not died on me yet accept for this morning when trying to back into my parking spot, but cranked right back up no issue... when driving down the road, from 30-40mph after the shift, and it goes back to low RPM, the engine shakes really bad, as if it is missing, or timing is way out, but if I floor it, it cranks back up, runs fine, shake goes away, and accelerates pretty normal, a little under powered though.

I changed fuel filter - nada - switching between front and rear tanks have no affect so its not fuel pumps. I have yet to be able to take out spark plugs to check if any are fouled, but it is on my to-do list... checked timing real quick and its right on the mark... what else can I check for? I pulled codes and only got that the EGR Valve is registering always open - I pulled it off, all looked good on it, started truck with it off, played with the little switch on it, but it made no change what so ever, not really sure wtf it is there for honestly....

Anyways any ideas or something I can search for on the forums would be greatly appreciated, im really getting pretty lost here! Thanks!

 

What was the exact code, by number, you found? What you are describing can be caused by a faulty ICM aka TFI module or the PIP in the distributor. Both can be very intermittent and affected by heat or cold. The ICM can be taken off and tested. The PIP is not very easily tested or replaced. Many find it easier to replace the entire distributor with a new (not rebuilt) one.

Before throwing money at it, let us know the code you found, pull the ICM off and have it tested. Be sure they test it multiple times to heat it up. Even that testing is somewhat inconclusive at times.

 

Ok, code was a little bit of a PITA to read right, but what im "thinking" is 33 and 512, or 52... not sure on that one...

For the 33 - it blinked 3 times, paused, then blinked 3 times again... but the 3 blinks were not as fast as the blinks were for the 5 and 2... so that is what throws me off a little... its kinda "blink pause blink pause blink long pause" then repeats, then pauses long again, then does the 5 fast blinks, pause, 1 blink, pause, then 2 fast blinks, then thats it...

HTH - I know it wasn't very descriptive... if that is not good enough, once it gets dark ill see if I can snag a video of it doing its blinking thing, the test light is not bright enough to vid during day!

 

Your truck should display 3 digit codes. The first two sets of 111/111 is the all clear. The next set are codes stored in continuous memory, they are also displayed twice. From what you describe it looks like DTC 512. That can be caused by disconnecting the battery at some point for a short period of time.

 

Hmm battery hasn't been disconnected since i got it in Jan... anyways from reading some other posts on the PIP issue... sounds like that could be the issue... but I know the distributer was replaced in Dec, but almost 100% sure it was a reman, going to dig through my chilton to see what I can test on that ignition system...

 

512 yea problem is any CM code that might have help ya is now lost, need to drive it and wait and see what happens. Does it again check for codes again.

but as I went to take off, it had almost no power at all, and shook really bad... ended up dieing on me twice after stop signs/lights when taking off. When giving it gas, it just sounded like it was drowning, no power at all, sort of like when you are geared way too high in a manual, trying to take off in 5th gear.

Didn't see where you say what trans but sounds like that is exactly what was happening, computer not getting the right info, doesn't know how fast the trucks moving, starting out in 3rd or O/D, and or the TCC was locked up perhaps?

 

Well actually not sure which specific, but its the automatic... but have owned many manuals, and you know how when you start off in second or third gear, it kind of drowns and has no power, gets shaky, and wants to die... well same type of crap.... only thing is issue does not go away if I manually shift instead of putting it into Drive...

FWIW, was going over some basic checks, put test light into the neg tach lead, and light says lit, does not flash as it should.... symptom states

"If light comes on brightly but doesn't flash, the problems is in the primary circuit (open from TACH to module) or ignition control module (stuck open transistor). Check primary circuit harness continuity from TACH to ignition module first"

Will report back with findings!

 

Well based on the testing outlined in the chilton manual, it is the ICM - when testing the SPOUT voltage, it is 11.5v AC - supposed to be between 3 and 8.5v AC. PIP is receiving signal and is at correct voltage, so based on that part of the testing it is no the PIP, but that does not necessarily mean the brains are receiving the correct signal! Figure ill start with the ICM... wonder what thats going to run me!

Well seem to be having a blond moment... wtf is the ICM... the only ones im seeing at autozone are for the distributor mounted ones... im 99.9% sure mine is the remotely mounted one... in the manual it just says "Locate the Ignition control module (ICM) in the engine compartment against the left fender apron" Not a lot of help... only thing I see there is what I thought was the ol puter, about the size of a credit card with heat sinks on it? is that actually it? Where am I able to snag one of those, AZ don't seem to carry that style... or am I completely off target????

 

Well not going to say too much - but replaced them ICM and it "seems" to be working better... took it out for a few mins up the road, got on a back road and cruised for a few... seemed to get a little better each mile passed - once i drive it through its normal routine tomorrow ill know for sure...

 

Glad you found the ICM and got it replaced. Quick question what color was the original one? What color was the new one?

 

Grey, Grey - saw in another post talking about matching colors! Amazingly, the guy at autozone knew about the colors matching, because he commented on it as well

 

Good work with the testing job, hope its the end of the problem.

Sounds like it might be, didn't initially sound like a ICM issue but time will tell ya fairly quick i'm sure.

Be sure and post back let us know either way would ya please?

 

Welp wasn't the fix... it did make the truck run better all around though, so apparently I had more issues then I thought lol. But it is still doing the low rpm shake/loss of power. Something weird happened today though, taking off from a stop light, accelerated and when I got to about 35 where it was going to shift, all of a sudden it sounded like all my exhaust bypassed the pipes, like it was being blown out of the flanges, sounded super "airy" - hard to describe, but basically like a really strong wind.... and it had no rumble at all, completely quiet minus the "airy" sound (only have the two cats installed, no mufflers) and it had absolutely no power at all, then it kind of hiccuped, pipes started sounding off again, and all was fine (still the low rpm power issue tho)

It has not done it again, but about to head back to work so well see. For the PIP - is it best to just replace the entire distributor? I have the TFI-IV ignition system... if it is the PIP, will replacing the distributor fix it, or should I replace the rest of the ignition sys as well (coil pack stuff etc...)

 

This weekend I replaced the PIP sensor and it is still running like crap! I'm at a loss ... it sounds like it keeps missing, has the bad shake like its missing... even doing the sputtering, I checked all plugs and they all look great. Plug wires are about 6 months old. Where can I go from here?

 

Following video is of the codes popped when I was checking - im getting 1-1-1, 1-1-1, and 5-1-2 - do you all concur?

Video of Codes

If so im not getting crap - is there any other way to check for codes, or something? Because the truck is slowly getting worse and it is my only transportation! I have tried taking to a few shops but nobody will look at it without it sitting there for a few days before they even look at it, and I can't afford that - no transportation!