I got soem error codes 13, 33
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From: Berlin, CT USA
I got some error codes 13, 33
Heres what iam running, 1987 F- 150 pickup straight 6 Auto
Below is the 2 error codes i have obtained from a self test i am not good with stuff such as these problems i was hopeing i could get a better understanding from someone here, better explanation of these codes, the scanner i used is actron code scanner
I ran a self test and got error code 13 - RPM out of specification during normal idle operation, or D.C. motor does not follow dashpot.
Second error code i got was 33 - EGR valve position sensor or pressure feedback EGR (PFE) sensor indicates EGR valve is not opening or EGR valve pressure feedback EGR sensor indicates EGR valve not seated (closed) properly. if i missed anything please let me know ill be here for while thnx guys.
Below is the 2 error codes i have obtained from a self test i am not good with stuff such as these problems i was hopeing i could get a better understanding from someone here, better explanation of these codes, the scanner i used is actron code scanner
I ran a self test and got error code 13 - RPM out of specification during normal idle operation, or D.C. motor does not follow dashpot.
Second error code i got was 33 - EGR valve position sensor or pressure feedback EGR (PFE) sensor indicates EGR valve is not opening or EGR valve pressure feedback EGR sensor indicates EGR valve not seated (closed) properly. if i missed anything please let me know ill be here for while thnx guys.
Last edited by spike552; Aug 17, 2006 at 03:56 PM.
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 623
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From: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
For the code 33 check vacuum lines from the egr valve and from the egr regulator . They get brittle and can break with time.Check egr by attatching a vacuum pump to it and see if it holds and the pintle should move up and down. If you have a vacuum leak it may give a code 13 because the computer could not lower the idle speed during the test .Sometimes the small coloured plastic vacuum lines are in wire looms for protection so you won't notice the break.
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From: Berlin, CT USA
Thank you sir i have another question, i looked at the lines tonight and i didnt notice anything ill look again during the daytime but i want to know is it really that easy unscrew the bolts and have a look inside i mean is there anything serious that i can mess up or something that iam missing.
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From: Berlin, CT USA
Ok i have since last night takin the egr valve off halfway and replaced the sensor and iam l left with one code 33 valve i looked around and didint feel or see any carbon deposits now my other problem is that i can undo the 2 bolts from the ears on the egr but i cant undo the bigger one that connects to a pipe that goes underneith near the exhaust i have usedc pb blaster stuff but i havent had any luck i hope some one knows what iam trying to say here i need some help.
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
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From: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
In the past I have used a rather large adjustable cresent wrench to remove that nut you are talking about. They can be stubborn so go easy. The 2 bolts should be tightened back up before you put any leverage on it. Before you start with the truck running apply vacuum to the egr valve and see what happens. If the truck stumbles and idles rough that is a good indicator that the valve is ok .Try that before you remove the whole valve from the truck.
Last edited by mississauga; Aug 19, 2006 at 05:35 PM.
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From: Berlin, CT USA
Some one suggested to me to try this- run the truck to normal op temp and then put pb blaster on the nut that u would use the adjustable cresent wrench on and then let it cool then try and turn it i am no good with stuff like that i mean is it safe am i gonna damage anything more then it might be now. thnx for the vacuum test ill try that with in the next hour.
forgot to add, i fixed thoes 2 codes EVPS 33
and i dont get 13 anymore the only code i get now is the problem with the actual valve itself which we r working towards with your help
forgot to add, i fixed thoes 2 codes EVPS 33
and i dont get 13 anymore the only code i get now is the problem with the actual valve itself which we r working towards with your help
Last edited by spike552; Aug 19, 2006 at 08:51 PM.
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Elder User
Joined: May 2006
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From: Mississauga,Ont.,Canada
I tried to keep my post short as not to confuse you. I used the cresent wrench as I didnt have a big enough combination wrench to fit the nut . If you have the correct size wrench by all means go ahead and use it.It is hard to explain how much you can pull on the nut without breaking something. Make sure that you are loosening it and not tightning. If you run the vehicle and the nut gets hot it may help to remove it . If the pb blaster is not flamable it is worth a try to spray it on the hot parts. Try to remove the nut while it is still hot. Wear gloves so you dont burn yourself. Not sure if it will work. If you have one of those small propane bottles with the torch on the end that you would use for small plumbing jobs you could heat up the nut and that should work as you are expanding it and should make it easier to get off. The key is to get the wrench on perfectly straight and a snug fit so it doesnt slip and round the edges of the nut. The valve is made solid .You can be reasonably agressive to muscle it off.
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Senior User
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Berlin, CT USA
Well thank you very much i have removed the valve without breaking anything lol found some really nice black stuff coat hanger and shopvac everything runs great now i have no problems with my truck now freaking sweet thnx again.
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